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30HP Bessemer FC

con-rad

Registered
Hey all,

After making a deal last october, I finally got a truck and trailer organized to haul this engine! It was a nightmare to haul, including blown trailer tires, an F550 dying on the road, and lug studs shearing off the trailer axle. After many hours and dollars it came to rest at it's new home at the Zagray Farm Museum in CT. It last ran about 10 years ago and i was told it had a stuck valve. As you can see, the real issue is a broken valve keeper/guide. Not sure how I will go about repairing it yet, but i'm open to suggestions!
 

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KeithW

Subscriber
Age
65
Last Subscription Date
02/28/2020
It looks like someone tried to repair it in the past by welding it. My thoughts would be to fabricate a new one unless a good used or new can be found.
 

W.P.Klein

Sponsor
Last Subscription Date
01/19/2020
It last ran about 10 years ago and i was told it had a stuck valve. As you can see, the real issue is a broken valve keeper/guide. Not sure how I will go about repairing it yet, but i'm open to suggestions!
How about drilling thru the flat of the "bowl" and drilling/tapping the center guide then bolting the 2 together?
Parts for a Bessemer FC are like hen's teeth but even more so for the 30! Bill Klein
 

con-rad

Registered
WP Klein, that sounds like an interesting idea! I was going to cut off the nickel weld and try brazing it, but I am more confident in my drilling and tapping abilities! Maybe I will braze it first to stick it together and drill and tap later. I will have to look closely at it, there isn't much meat to drill into due to the angles of the crack and the sloped sides of the center hub. Worst case scenario, it's not the hardest thing to machine brand new.

Connor
 

con-rad

Registered
Cleaned up the gas mixer and gas cock today. The handle to the gas cock was steel and I wanted it pretty, so i wire wheeled it shiny, and heated it with a torch to a couple hundred degrees. Then i bushed it with a brass brush. The heat melted and transferred a small amount of brass from the brush bristles to the steel handle, giving it a brass look. The mixer valve was all stuck and gooey inside, so I brushed and honed it out, and hosed out all the rust and goo with solvent.

I have heated the broken valve keeper twice to drive out oil. I will cut off the nickel weld, braze it together, and then drill about 6 holes, and tap them per Klein's suggestion to screw it all together.

I also made a air choke plate for the intake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTr_Fj-naz8&lc=z23qdndhlyuhinwgj04t1aokghjozpl1gytgqab5sp1ark0h00410

connor
 

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con-rad

Registered
The unloading was at the museum. I don't have equipment big enough at home to unload it!

Brazed and pinned the upper valve guide/keeper. Only issue was that i lost concentricity between the OD and the threaded hole for the valve stem. I'm going to chuck the part in a lathe and turn down the high spots this weekend, and the repair will be done!

connor
 

con-rad

Registered
I still need to give the mag some help, (does anyone know if a condenser for an EK works in an OC? the guts of the mag look the same with the exception of the magnets) but i did lap the valve in. I chucked the valve stem in a big drill press, securely attached the valve chest to the drill press table with ratchet straps, and with the drill at the lowest speed (25ish rpm) lapped in the valve. Came out well, going to try running it this weekend.
 

Attachments

David A.

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
04/10/2019
I have used them, works for me, don't know if they the correct one or not
 

con-rad

Registered
Thanks! I've ordered a few to repair my OC's that spark great in my cool shop and then faceplant when i put them on the engine in the sunlight!

connor
 

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