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1800 rpm is what the tag says. all that sound you hear in the video is the cooling fan! the last time i had it running was without the fan and it sounds much quieter and you can actually hear the motor take the load when you are welding. when i get a chance i will post another video without the fan and do a short weld. that fan is going to be tricky because i am going to have to mount it on the driveshaft yoke. No way do i want to leave it off its there for a reason!
machinist neighbor stopped by today we shot the sh#% and he took a look and said no problem. this guy is retired and he comes up with ways to do things i would never have thought of! great guy and teacher!
well, I had not gave this engine a tune up! new points & condensor has brought the spark back to where it needed to be. Got a nice fat blue purplish spark now. more than i want getting hold of me! that would be a !@#$ that sucked!
for the welders following along I did manage to reverse the polarity today, and i must say i was impressed! And I was right, it was just a dirty switch that needed cleaned up and tightened up just a fuzz. I had a older gentelman here today as well that has welding experience and i let him try his hand with it. He has been giving away 7018 rods that has been given to him because he couldnt weld with them, turns out he can weld with them and pretty darn good too with my welder. I dont know what kind of welder he has but i imagine a AC buzz box. he couldnt get over how smooth it welds.
The welding rods' first two numbers identify the alloy. A 60-series rod will exhibit 60,000psi of yield strength. A 70-series will yield 70,000psi.
The next number (like... the 1 in 6013) identify the recommended position (1 = all position, 2 horizontal or flat, 3 is horizontal only, etc)
The last number identifies polarity and other characteristics.
basically, what's happening in the last two numbers, is identifying that the flux chemistry is intended for a certain operation.
And all of these numbers, along with the diameter of the rod, determine how much power it takes in order for the rod to do it's job best.
Rods are not wholly interchangable for settings... a 3/16" 7018 rod, and a 3/16" 7014 rod, and an 3/16" 6011 rod will all require different power levels to yield their respective performance results.
When in doubt, READ the label on your electrode's box... it will clearly identify the position, polarity, and power level appropriate for that specific rod. Your best results will be when you set the machine that way, and of course, have clean parent metals, dry conditions, good ground and low-resistance leads. Propery prepare your edges, strike the arc, and keep a steady arc, tilt the rod slightly, and move in the direction such that the arc shines forward INTO the direction you're going, go no faster than the filler metal and slag are filling in BEHIND. once done, chip the slag off and take a look.
Most guys make the mistake of moving the rod too much. Just watch the arc, and put it on the seam... don't wander it around trying to 'make' it look any particular way... if you're moving it smooth and steady, it'll look right all on-its-own.
still got a learning curve to overcome, no two welders weld the same and exploring into other rods at the same time. just for the heck of it i dug out a few 6013's and played around with the voltage and amps, got a real good bead and the flux lifted right off on its own. but I have been using this rod for years. I think the thing thats giving me a fit with the 7018 is i am not running hot enough and i cant right now "not enough power in the building". those rods were given to me no idea what brand, how old, or how damp they may be.
damn this has been slow go! I ordered the stuff to make my drive shaft over a week ago, was told two days. well it finally showed up today. I have the vh4d running well but it is not up to my standards, it still has a random missfire. Just enough to drive me up the wall! very little machine work left for the cooling fan then i get to build a frame to put all of this together. this whole mess may turn into a trailer as it is going to start getting really heavy!
figured i would post up some pictures, its just mocked up right now to see where i stand. as you can see the cooling fan was attached to a hub that i cant use anymore. the idea here is to do a little more machining on the yoke and machine the inside of that hub out to be a pressed fit onto the yoke and then attach the fan back to the hub on the other side of the fan. this should allow me to get to the set screw. alot of thought still to be done in this area. It has to run true and i am not sure just how much wiggle room i have on its placement once the shroud goes back on. I still need to locate some steel either scrap or at the steel mill to make a frame. still a ton of thinking to do, fuel tank placement, battery placement and on and on.
I got some channel iron late yesterday, would have rather bought new and it is rusty but the price was right and i didnt have to drive to far to get it. cutting it is going to suck though, I really wish i had a band saw!
I be damn! that hand held band saw is the shizzle! just have to have a good eye and good steady hands. not going to suck as bad as i thought! Vanman you have me interested in using the AC motor for a generator, it would be realy handy to have AC power and the welder all wrapped up in one package! I have generators but it would be a lot better not to have to drag out but one piece of equipment!
Yes, I recall using those band saws on job sites, and so I bought one a long time ago. Milwaukee Portaband, IIRC. With a helper, it can even be used upright, like a regular band saw.
Induction generators are not something I have first hand experience with, but I do know that it works. There are videos on YouTube, as well as folks here likely to have more knowledge. Railroads and Radiomike are two that come to mind.
I think ultimately it’s a bit of trial and error on capacitor size. Connect them correctly, run it at the right speed, with the right size capacitor, and I guess they work pretty well. I’d probably dedicate a new thread to it in the right forum with a good title to catch the attention of those in the know.
ugg! this thing is gonna need a axle and wheels! I now have 3 pieces that are to heavy to move by hand, I got the frame about half built today with the welder sitting on it. made a rotten screw up not looking far enough ahead. i was going to try to make the pto shaft run as straight as possible, well the center of the motor shaft is right at 1&1/2" lower. well when i was cutting my cross members i had a little left over, if i had left that little bit I could have welded those on top of the main rails and been good to go. oh well time for a