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Automotive paint vs. spray cans

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Chris Kirk

Guest
Can anyone tell me if automotive paint (i.e. Centari) has any advantages over spray can paint? Also, which is the best brand of spray can paint to use for restistance to gas and heat?

I'm not set up for a spray gun, so I'll likely be using a spray can for my Witte.

Thanks in advance...

Chris
 
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Al Hettich

Guest
When I painted my Mogul I did not trust spray cans to be the correct color. I got the Dupont number, and they mixed spray cans for me. It was expensive ($10.00 per can), but I feel it was worth it. The color is perfect. It will get soft with gasoline, but I need to coat it with clear. It went on great and looks great. Al
 
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Allen

Guest
I can tell you for certain that the el cheapo 98c Kelly Green from Wal-Mart will shift towards blue when exposed to 300+ degrees on steam lines. I still use it anyway and just touch up the problem areas yearly.

I've also had implement enamel from the local farm & fleet (IHC red) that actually peeled off in strips.

If you spray bomb Rustoleum is pretty good (except you have to watch the second coat, it can and will react with the previous coat to give you a "crinkle" finish).
 

Harry

Administrator
If you spray bomb, Rustoleum is pretty good (except you have to watch the second coat, it can and will react with the previous coat to give you a "crinkle" finish.)

There's a trick to this - read the fine print on the can. You cannot spray after one hour or before 48 hours. In other words, you have to get all of your coats sprayed within one hour. If you do otherwise, you'll get the dreaded crinkles.
 
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Rob Charles

Guest
Hi, I noticed that with rustoleum that after maybe 10 years it peels off and leaves the primer on and in great shape for the next paint job.You can brush paint Centari but don't due it if it's over 60 degrees it dries too quick. I know they tell you to paint when it's over 70 degrees but I had good results painting my 8 hp Mogul with it and it was 40 degrees in the barn.The cold actually slowed down the drying so I could finish the job before the brush set up.You need to wear a good mask when you use the stuff.It's got some pretty unhealthy chemicals in it.Probably the most important part of the paint job is the prep work.Everything must be clean and oil free.spend as much time on it as you need to get it right.It will show in your finished work no matter what you paint it with.I have had good results with Demkote paint sold by Graingers.Also Krylon seems to be pretty good.Rustoleum by far takes the longest to dry.Good luck Rob
 
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Darryl Boyd

Guest
Hi Chris, What we found and was also told by our automotive paint suppliers is,

two and three part mix automotive paint is harder on the surface and is much more resistive to UV (sunlight).

When we spray red on our field trucks (by can), it will start fading in about 4 to 6 months. Automotive paint will stay shinny for a very long time. Might make a difference for you if you are leaving it out for long periods of time.

DB
 
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David M. Lyon

Guest
If you want to use Centari in hot weather(which we have a lot of down here in south Mississippi), use a high temp thiiner...It lets the paint dry much more slowly and lets the brush marks flow out before it drys...If it still dries to quickly, you can add a retarder to it and slow it down even more. By brushing it on, you can add the gloss hardner to it and make it gas & oil proof. ...But if your gonna stay in this hobby, get a paint gun and start practicing with it, I think you'll be much more satisfied with the results!... you will also have access to an endless number of colors from DuPont, or Surewood Williams, or Ditzler etc. Just my 2 cents,

David M.
 
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Chuck Martin

Guest
Lowe's building supply house has a spray outfit, Quart cup, 1/2 pint gun, air brush, hose, fittings, about $60.00, It's decent equipment, Key is to keep it clean.
 
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Larry

Guest
I'm still going with automotive acrylics and hardener, but it sure is getting expensive. Larry
 
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Jeff Conner

Guest
Centari is great, but will lift if soaked with gasoline for any length of time. Most any paint will except the three part urethanes. They are the best, but expensive and hazardous to use. They are very forgiving when sprayed, build up multiple coats quickly, and have a super gloss. NAPA sells Duplicolor acrylic enamel in spray cans. Color selection isn't great but it is as good a Centari. About $4.00/can. I weather tested it on my mailbox. Still looks great after a year. Rustoleum faded in less than 2 months in the weather. Also doesn't dry fast enough to remain dust and bug free. I used to get Centari put in spray cans for $3.65/can plus the cost of the Centari paint. You get about 6 cans to the quart plus a little left over. Somewhat expensive but good way to handle small projects. For larger engines, bite the bullet and get an inexpensive HVLP spray gun. Even the cheap ones are great. I got the pressure cup type. More convenient for use around my messy shop. I have also found a spray gloss shellac coating to help in gasoline spill areas. It is not soluble in petroleum solvents. Just don't spill any alcohol on it.
 
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Dave N

Guest
I half to agree with Jeff.I used PPG`s version of Centari and the paint did peal when soaked with gas.I used it on a Allis Chalmers and other than just below the setament bowl i have been happy.The tractor still looks good other than that area and otherwise has held up good.Dave
 
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David M. Lyon

Guest
Did you add the gloss hardner to it?...If not, Gasoline will STILL soften it up.

David M.
 
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David M. Lyon

Guest
It cures out very fast, and then has properties much like urethane without the mess. After it sets overnight it is pretty much bullet proof... even on sheet metal fuel tanks...I have seen it wrinkle around gas tank necks but that is usually caused from the flux used in sweating on the neck and cap. But generally speaking, gas does not bother it...If it did, it wouldn't be worth a flip on a car. Every time you filled your tank, you would wash the paint off the quarter panel!
 
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Marty

Guest
David, you made a good point of the automobiles. I learned something new today. Thx to Harry and the contributing "Stakers", I've found out just how little I really do know !
 
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Rob Charles

Guest
Hi All, Where does one get Centari packed in spray bombs?Rob
 
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Jeff Conner

Guest
A few years ago, after a gasoline wrinkle showed up under the weeping check valve on my Hercules, I called Dupont and asked them about gasoline proof paint. They told me only one paint they had would be considered gasoline proof and that was "Imron". Imron, of coarse, is a three part urethane. I asked about Centari and hardners but they said it would still wrinkle if the gasoline was left to soak on the paint. PPG said just about the same thing. The key is "soak". A spill or two or three won't bother most cured quality paints, but an overnight soak will discolor the paint and eventually lift it. Just watch those leaks!

Most good auto finisher supply houses will pack aerosol cans for you. Some cans and spray tips are better than others. You want the flat fan spray tip. Usually has a blue spray tip. I have mixed Imron and used it in a universal aerosol spray kit found in most hardware stores. Worked very well as long as the job is small. The propellent can starts to freeze up if you spray too long.
 
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Rob Charles

Guest
Hi, I never saw a kit fit making spray bombs.Any idea what store I can buy that at?Do you use compressed air as the propellant?I think propane is the propellant in the store boughts.I have spray guns and the stuff to do gun painting but those cans are so convient for little jobs.it would take me a week to cover everything in the barn.plus deposing of the waste thinners. I think that would be a nice match homemade spray bombs and good paint in the RIGHT color.Thanks Rob
 
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Bill Decker

Guest
I have heard that when Imron hardens, it really hardens and doesn't come off easily if you need to strip the item for some reason in the future. I saw a tow truck at a body shop that was painted with Imron a good number of years before, and when they sandblasted it, there was still quite a bit of paint left on the truck.
 
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robert

Guest
you are looking at 2 products--1-k and 2-k --1-k products are like mud-in that they will return to there original nature by just adding thinner or solvent. 2-k products accutaly change there composition of the product as that they can never be retuned to there original state. from ground up 2-k products are the best. cost more-but are more resistant to fuel. the key is to use 2-k products fully threw the restoration project-
 
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