Briggs 23AFB w flojet carb

BernieTech

New member
starting a new thread on my Dayton Genset, 3.5kw powered by a briggs 23afb w 3 bolt flojet carb, curca 1963. it last ran in the mid 1970's.

Early in oct I started to work on it again, have spark. Today I cleaned the points with paper and got a lot of dirt off. Then pulled the carb. after lots of carb cleaner I freed up the choke and throttle butterflies, they were frozen, and now move freely.

I pulled the jet, it was clean as a whistle as was the air path from the oiled air filter to the carb. I ground a 1/4 " screwdriver to remove the "flo jet sleeve" if that is what it is called. the seat came right out. I cleaned them as there was some crud on them.

Now for the help. How do yo split the carb? I removed the three screws holding the bowl to the carb body. Tapped with a screw driver handle, no go. I gave up. I reassembled the carb with both valves out 21/2 turns out. later this week I will add gas and see if it runs. If it runs well I will not try to crack the carb, but if it doesn't...How do I split it?????

thanks,

Bernie
 

EvilDr235

Member
Re: briggs 23afb w flojet carb

If I were you I would have a carb rebuild kit on hand. If the carb is stuck together that bad, chances are the gasket will be ruined when you get it apart. When you crack it open, make sure the (Flo-Jet sleeve) emulsion tube is not in the carb or it will be bent / ruined. Maybe you can soak the carb in some kind of solvent to get it apart. I bet you could put in a pan of boiling water to get it apart. New carbs can be bought cheap if you look around. I have bought 3 of the aftermarket Flo-Jet carbs and have had no problems with them. Can you post some pictures of your engine ? I am a big fan of the BIG Briggs engines as are others.
 

BernieTech

New member
Re: briggs 23afb w flojet carb

thanks all.

Dr. I have a post on the stak generator forum showing my genset. dated 10/28/2005. I hope to put some gas in it and give it a shot by the end of the week.

Tom g, thanks for the links.

Bernie
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Re: briggs 23afb w flojet carb

Yes those work great.BUT on ALL of the 1's I have gotten,I found the high speed adjuster screw was screwed into the "flojet"and I had to take it out ,seperate the 2 and install the jet by it's self then screw in the adjuster BUT not all the way in and try the engine and adjust as needed.
 

BernieTech

New member
Re: briggs 23afb w flojet carb

Carb kit ordered. Does anyone have an idea how long points on this engine last? As far as I know they are original. Once I get it running I should get a set of new points. Any ideas which is better, nos, if available, or aftermarket?

Thanks,
Bernie
 

ulgydog56

Member
Re: briggs 23afb w flojet carb

nos is always better than after market..china crap but sometimes its all that's available..:D
 

K-Tron

Active member
Re: briggs 23afb w flojet carb

If the 23AFB uses the 290880 magnematic coil, you will need to keep a spare on hand in a climate controlled environment. Those coils are known to go bad and be very troublesome. The points not so much. The original pair if in good shape will probably last as long as the engine. Between the pesky flo-jet carburetors and the magnematic coil, Briggs & Stratton ruined an otherwise great engine. My model 23 had me pulling my hair out when rebuilding it. It took the parts out of five different carbs and a new coil to get it to run right. Hopefully your carburetor is in good shape. Once the threads for the emulsion tube/main fuel jet are stripped, the lower half of the carb is junk. Make sure that the idle jet is clean. I have seen people thread the brass screw in too far snapping the tip off in the jet.

Chris
 

BernieTech

New member
Up and running. Bought a carb kit, did not need it. Cleaned insides w car cleaned. Some junk in carb bowl. I was really surprised that it started up first try. Fuel screen arrived today, waiting on gasket for fuel bowl (glass sediment bowl). More details on generac/Sears thread with pics.

Bernie
 

BernieTech

New member
Its up, but not running well. as I mentioned earlier I cleaned carb and put together w o using any new parts. Emolulent tube cleaned up well and I got it running for a bit. Now it starts right away and surges and only runs with choke on, it backfires a bit. It was leaking raw fuel from the lower carb neck where it attaches to the air cleaner.
I then replaced the emolulent tube and jet as well as the high speed needle valve from the kit. Running a little better, no fuel leaking, less backfiring but still needed choke and is searching.

Any thoughts on a direction to go from here. I have set all screw adjustment to 1 1/2 turns out from being seated. Adjusting them doesn't help much.
Could it be the coil?? I want to eliminate the carb as an issue before I pull the flywheel.

Help...

Bernie
 

EvilDr235

Member
If the clearance is too great, you will need to grind / seat the valve deeper into the cylinder block to close the gap. If the clearance is too tight, you will need to grind some metal off the end of the valve that contacts the lifter. Lots of videos on the internet showing you how to do it.
 
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