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Briggs Model -I- I have yet to source valve guides

enginecrzy

Registered
Hello again.

I am getting back to my Briggs Model - I- Project.

I have the valve guides out of the block so that I can now measure them & have since bought new valves & other parts to tighten up tolerances.

I have been to Napa, Carls mower, S&H auto "not worth the freight he says",
IHC tractor dealership & 1 other machine shop who probably can help me out "worst case".

Also I bought some Briggs valve guides from eBay P.n#692057 @ 8.99 Ea but they were not right unfortunately.

So the Intake valve guide is: 1.683" tall by .438" wide "or O.D."
& the Exhaust valve guide is: 1.348" tall by .438".....................

It does not matter to me if these are different lengths or not, I can shorten them if they are too long.
The originals had quite a bit of material protruding in the valve ports & valve chest.

-Also- The Valve stems are: .247" thick "O.D."



Can anyone sell me some or steer me to a set??
 

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K-Tron

Registered
The valve guides in most small air cooled engines are nothing more than a slug of cast iron turned to o.d./faced/chamfered/center-drilled and then reamed to size. If you have access to a lathe you can buy 1/2" stock and make as many as you need. That is what I do when I need valve guides for unusual engines.

Chris
 

Pat Barrett

Subscriber
Age
71
Last Subscription Date
01/02/2020
The other alternative is to buy the thin guide, and install it in your guides, you removed.
 

Mike in NC

Moderator
Age
46
Last Subscription Date
05/13/2009
I found Part Number Briggs 63709. I guess you could use it for both intake and exhaust. Shows as a good number. Amazon and Ebay both have them and your local Briggs dealer should be able to get them.
 

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enginecrzy

Registered
thanks for the replies.


no I don't have access to a lathe "just a home gamer"


Yah could of repaired the old guides with bushings,
but I became too curious & buggered up the exhaust
guide by center punching a series of lines around the
outside of it to somewhat shrink it. It worked a little
bit but then it cracked on me. It is now not suitable
for repair.


I think that It makes the most sense in my case to
possibly find a suitable substitute part if at all feasible,
If not, than I rather not obtain a reamer kit & bushings
that are required to repair my now more broken part.
Just to use it once & then sit in the garage as a a paper
weight or something along those lines.


My Issue is that I Had limited Income for hobbies
& other things until just recently when My Mother
& I came to an arrangement to get my Dad out of
the nursing home to better care for him here. Its a
Win-Win for all of us & I can get this thing off the
back burner. Now I can afford options. If it turns out
that a match can't be found for it, then the machine
shop option would cost about the same as the cutter
tool & I would have a much better souvenir as an end
result :rolleyes:


today Is my day off & I'm going to head over to the machine
shop sometime today to see what can be done about it.


I do apologize.
for my brain to work & choose course of action, It needs to
vent & talk in circles to iron out conundrums & yes I realize
how ironically complicatedly simple this is. I digress.
 

Tom Schaech

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/07/2019
The part numbers for the guides are as follows: #61740 for the intake, and #61933 for the exhaust. I checked--I don't have them in stock, but maybe Bob Blin @ Bob's Small Engine Repair might. Alternatively, I would think a reputable machine shop, given the correct dimensions of the OD on the valve stem, should be able to ream out the originals and install a bushing. If you can't locate NOS replacements and the originals are not serviceable, then another block may be your answer. Model "I" engines were very popular and many, many were built and survive to this day.
 
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