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Briggs Model Q Teardown

Junkologist

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/28/2019
I would definitely keep the WA. Consider this. I can’t remember, but I currently have six or seven Q models, but have only ever found one WA. :)
 

Mike Stroz

Registered
I would definitely keep the WA. Consider this. I can’t remember, but I currently have six or seven Q models, but have only ever found one WA. :)
I think I'm definitely going to keep the WA and sell the Q as parts/repair. How much do Q's usually go for? This one is is nice shape overall except that the rod doesn't spin on the crank as easily as it should. Probably easy to ream it out but I don't have the tools to do that.
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
I just noticed a Model Q on EnginAds that evidently does not have a low oil seized, snapped and brazed rod. Maybe could get that and combine the two?
 
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Mike Stroz

Registered
I just noticed a Model Q on EnginAds that evidently does not have a low oil seized, snapped and brazed rod. Maybe could get that and combine the two?

That one is actually mine, the repair on the rod actually looks really nice and is definitely usable with a little work. I'd have no problem running it. Did any old Briggs rods have some sort of coating around the crank area? I'm second guessing it was actually brazed back together because if it was repaired, it was really well done
 

Mike Stroz

Registered
You know what, I know exactly what happened. The rod was replaced at some point with one that fir but wasn't quite the same so they brazed the oil slinger onto the rod cap and made the oiling hole. That makes perfect sense since the rod isn't the correct part number
 

Mike in NC

Moderator
Staff member
Age
46
Last Subscription Date
05/13/2009
You should just keep them both. You can always keep the Q on a shelf for a later time.
 

Mike Stroz

Registered
What kind of oil should I be running in these? It says Mobil Gargoyle sae 20 is recommended, but would something like 10w40 be fine? I know not to run synthetic, only conventional in these old engines
 

Mike in NC

Moderator
Staff member
Age
46
Last Subscription Date
05/13/2009
Detergent oils suspend dirt in the oil to be filtered out by a filter, which these engines do not have. Non-detergent oils let the dirt fall to the bottom of the oil pan.
 

Mike Stroz

Registered
Detergent oils suspend dirt in the oil to be filtered out by a filter, which these engines do not have. Non-detergent oils let the dirt fall to the bottom of the oil pan.
Ok that makes sense. I'll see if I can buy some in bulk.

On another note, I was messing with the carb on the WA (Tillotson M18a) and I realized the one jet (low speed I think) was screwed all the way in and the other was the only one being used. Does anyone know how far out I should turn the screws? I usually start at around 1.5 turns each for most engines but this one I have no idea, the one jet was about 3/4 turn out and the other was screwed all the way in
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
Once you have the carb clean and all else is ready to go,set both screws at 1.5 turns out from a gentle closing.
The new chinese repop carbs have a issue with the high speed jet,the lower 1, being screwed in to tight and when you adjust it,you actually bring out the large high speed needle from inside the carb.:eek: I also had trouble with a needle having a edge on it,causing it to stick.
So even new 1's have faults.

---------- Post added at 03:22:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:21:16 PM ----------

Ok that makes sense. I'll see if I can buy some in bulk.

On another note, I was messing with the carb on the WA (Tillotson M18a) and I realized the one jet (low speed I think) was screwed all the way in and the other was the only one being used. Does anyone know how far out I should turn the screws? I usually start at around 1.5 turns each for most engines but this one I have no idea, the one jet was about 3/4 turn out and the other was screwed all the way in
check with Walmart in the oil section close to where the chainsaw bar oil is and so forth.I think the 30weight hd oil is beside of it..They carry a non detergent 30weitght oil in the super tech lable.Seems to work on the stuff I use it on.About any oil now adays is cleaner than the oil was back then.
 

Mike Stroz

Registered
Perfect, thanks. I also gapped the plug a little tighter and that helped too. I did run it a while and it started squeaking so I shut it down. Not sure what that could be, maybe something rubbing or it overheating? Still ran exactly the same even with the squeak, and it's only got a hair of slop in the rod. No metal in the oil so probably not anything catastrophic. I'll pull the flywheel and make sure the condensor I put in didn't come loose or something.
 

Mike Stroz

Registered
Just took the oil pan off and checked inside, it looks almost new. Turns out the slight slop was between the cam and crank, the rod has a really small amount of scoring on it but too small to catch a fingernail so I just put it back together. The cylinder has a really small amount of scuffing but I've been happy running much worse. Neither flywheel is rubbing anything either so I really have no idea what was squeaking. Any ideas? You can't hear anything just turning it over. Maybe a stuck ring? There was more oil in the cylinder than I would expect.
 
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