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Briggs & Stratton 5HP Engine

Skandia600

Registered
Well, here's my newest project, a 5 horse Briggs off of an old Lazy-Boy Deluxe tiller. I just need to build some skids for the engine, and it'll be up and running soon.:)
 

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Bigjoedo

Registered
Last Subscription Date
11/15/2013
Skandia600,

Nice engine, do you have it running Yet? Thanks for sharing.


Bigjoedo
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
2 things to watch on the B&S 5 HP - check the oil every time you fill the gas tank. The larger bore valve in block B&S engines tended to burn oil as they ran. You wouldn't see smoke, but they burned it noine the less. Don't let 'er run low! The second is that these engines tended to allow a little bit of crankcase vapor to get under the points cover. This in turn would cause loss of spark, due to corrosion on the points faces. Just clean with a white business card, and off you go! Nice find:cool:
Andrew
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
If the engine is an older unit, it will have points and condenser. They are under the flywheel, behind a 4" round aluminum cover, held with 2 small self tapping bolts. If the engine has 2 wires leading behind the flywheel, then you have points. One is the mag feed to the points, th other the engine kill wire that goes to the shut off switch. If the engine is a later version with electronic ignition, then one les hassle to worry about.
 
2 things to watch on the B&S 5 HP - check the oil every time you fill the gas tank. The larger bore valve in block B&S engines tended to burn oil as they ran.
Andrew
Is this the same with the I/C series 5hp horizontal shaft industrial engines with the cast iron bores? Coz i have one of these.
 

sprkplug

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
02/17/2020
I'm a firm believer in checking the oil before starting on any manufacturer's air-cooled engine EVERY single time. Air cooled engines run hot, and the oil is expected to provide some small measure of cooling as well as lubrication.... It's a good habit to get into.
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
To answer your question on the Briggs IC series engines, yes it is. If it is an older version, it will have points, unless someone has replaced the original set up with an electronic replacement. If you see wires leading under the flywheel, chances are it has points. Some engines do not have the condensation problem, I usually see it in engines that have been run long and hard, during their lifetimes. As for oil consumption, being aluminum block, they tend to expand more and run hotter, even the ones with the iron cylinder liners tend to use oil. The Wisconson engine engines, being all cast iron tend not to use as much oil, but they too do use it. It is always a good idea to check the oil every time you start an engine, no matter what the brand!
Andrew:)
 
To answer your question on the Briggs IC series engines, yes it is. If it is an older version, it will have points, unless someone has replaced the original set up with an electronic replacement. If you see wires leading under the flywheel, chances are it has points. Some engines do not have the condensation problem, I usually see it in engines that have been run long and hard, during their lifetimes. As for oil consumption, being aluminum block, they tend to expand more and run hotter, even the ones with the iron cylinder liners tend to use oil. The Wisconson engine engines, being all cast iron tend not to use as much oil, but they too do use it. It is always a good idea to check the oil every time you start an engine, no matter what the brand!
Andrew:)
Thank you Andrew :) The I/C I have is an 80s model with standard equipment electronic ignition. I havent started it in a few years. Thinkin ill probly start it soon tho. Along with my other treasure, my '56 6B S. Last time i ran that engine was about 2 years ago as well, and it ran great when it started and ran, along with my I/C. Im thinkin about building a genset out of that I/C engine. Coz it has plenty of power and torque to run a generator. And Im thinkin it may be just a battery charger genset made out of an alternator to charge batteries, since I dont have a great battery charger.
 

carlsbad

Registered
Nice engine and good to see it running so smoothly. I just picked up what looks like the identical engine. Mine is a 130232 1680 01. The date code shows it was manufactured in 1983. it is all original with original white paint on everything including the sparkplug. It isn't running so well. the air filter had disintegrated from age and I ordered a carb kit off ebay since I figured the elastomers were hardened and needed replacement. Didn't realize at the time so many OEM Briggs and Stratton parts were available online. The kit I bought turns out to be aftermarket and the jet and needle were nothing like the original and it wouldn't even run with them. However, with the old parts back in it isn't running as well as it was. I'm afraid I didn't use enough carb cleaner or blow out some holes well enough as it is running like crap now and loading with fuel, chugging, or dieing. I ordered some OEM parts from Tulsa Engine warehouse. This weekend I'm going to check the carb for air leaks and take it back off and make sure all the ports/passages are clean. It should run better than it does.

The engine powers a Tru-Cut commercial series reel mower--new about $2000 new but I got this old-but-cherry one for $400. It was never used enough to wear the paint off the reel. I did have to take apart the front wheels and repack the bearings as all the grease had turned to wax--it was very clean grease though. Had to replace a couple of grease zerts that were completely plugged. Got it lubricated and smoothe now. I ordered new chains for it too, nickel plated, size 40 and 41. The old ones are very stiff in a few joints and will wear the sprockets quickly.

The mower works like a champ and my backyard chipping area is now mowed to about 1/2" height and looks like a country club.

Since I am mowing almost daily, I also ordered a super low tone muffler for it that really quiets it down, part 691969 and it fits perfectly. even the bolt in the back that provides a brace to the head fits perfectly on this engine.

Can't wait to get my engine running properly.

I'm a big fan of the Briggs and Stratton engines. I'm a nuclear physicist with multiple degrees but took Small Engines class in high school centered around total disassembly and reassembly of a B&S engine and have used that class more than a lot of the physics classes I took in college. Since then (1972 or so when I took the course) I've always enjoyed fixing up these engines. In fact I have a smaller new Tru-Cut Mower with a modern Honda 4 hp engine that starts 2nd pull every time and I'm much more excited about the B&S 5hp and getting it running. I love old machinery made simply and strongly.

--Jerry
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
I do not know your engine knowledge back ground, so I will go thru this in detail.

First thing to check is the intake gasket. The carb mount screws tend to loosen up, and engine vibration takes out the gasket.

Second, check the face of the carb mounting flange for flat, by putting a piece of oil soaked glass on the face. The oil should be pressed out from the contact surface. Many times, the screws are cranked in by the owner, or shop, warping the flange. When this happens, you cannot get a good seal. If the flange is warped, dress with a wide fine flat file, or a piece of 120 grit emory paper on a piece of glass plate (be careful you don't press too hard!).

Next, check the diaphram cover plate for flat, in the same manner. It too can warp, if the mount screws are tightenned too much. The fact that the engine is flooding, sounds like the diaphram itself is either defective or torn, allowing too much fuel to be sucked into the engine. If the cover plate is warped, this also will cause possible flooding. Make sure it is installed correctly. The spring goes against the carb, and the protection ring goes against the diaphram. You won't believe how many times I find this reversed, and the spring punches a hole in the diaphram, rather qurckly!

Remove the carb from the tank, and check both fuel riser screens for blockage. make sure there is no water in the secondary reservoir, if there is, it will drive you nuts, trying to adjust the carb mixture. If you have a shallow fuel tank, there will only be one riser.

Remove the fuel adjuster assembly, and remove the main jet. Underneath there are several ports that must be clear of debris. The one on the right is the idle, and is actually a slot that allows in more fuel as the throttle opens. The second is the main jet. DO NOT oversize these holes, or the engine will run poorly. re-install th brass main jet port, then back off the screw in the fuel needle assembly, and install same. Turn in sectw finger tight, back off 1 and 1/2 turn, and adjust as nescessary. Adjust the carb with the air filter in place - it does make a difference!

Lastly, find one of those neon spark testers, or get an AC LM 46-B spark plug, and check your spark. Sometimes a bad mag will act like a mixture problem. If the neon seems to blink, or there are gaps in ignition, then the mag will have to go!

Andrew:)
 

carlsbad

Registered
Andrew,
Thanks. those are the things I was planning to check but your experience and detailed suggestions are really helpful.

The put a new gasket in the carb mounting flange and it wasn't as thick as the old one.

The new diaphragm i put in seems ok and was nice and pliable. I checked it against the old one and it seemed good. But I have an OEM one ordered.

I do realize that most problems with most small engines are spark and generally I don't touch the carb. So I have less experience with carbs than I would otherwise. True to this age old philosophy, it looks like I caused this carb problem myself working on it but it needed cleaning after sitting so long.

thanks for your help and I'll report back what I find.

--Jerry
 

Skandia600

Registered
Hey can someone help me? I stupidly pulled the 2 wires out from behind the flywheel when I was trying to pull the mag armature off to check it. How can I fix this? How do I convert it to electronic ignition? Now the engine won't run and I feel like a complete idiot for ruining a perfectly good engine! :( Please help!
 
You arent in SUPER trouble for pulling those wires out. One of them goes to the positive on the condenser, and its just held into a hole in it with a spring. So just reinsert. The other wire(if I remember properly) goes to the breaker point. And I cant remember for sure(been awhile since I took one of these apart) but I think it has an eyelet on it. You can put a new eyelet on it, OR wrap the wire ONCE around the screw in the same direction as it tightens and tighten the screw. For conversion to electronic ignition requires a magneto with the electronic module on it. Which you can find on a newer briggs.
 

Skandia600

Registered
Do you think if I go to a place that has replacement parts they will have one? It's just the armature on the engine, but it has this on it?(see photo)
that armature is for a Briggs 3.5 HP engine, are electronic armatures just standard now?
 

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Ya itll probly work. They arent cheap tho. they go for about 75-100. So if you wanna just do a point and condenser deleat, id go about getting that coil and useing it.
 

carlsbad

Registered
Well, somewhat disappointing results. Got a box of real Briggs and Stratton parts yesterday with very nice red and black logos.

Motor runs better. Starts and runs fine with the new carb parts including new diaphragm. When I run it at no load for a while trying to adjust the jet, it eventually loads up with fuel and when I shut it off fuel drips out of the carburator barrel around the slide choke. That can't be right.

I'll keep troubleshooting.

I'm mowing with it but it is frustrating when it hesitates or stalls.

--Jerry
 
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