Buzacott 2hp stationary engine

Ingledew

New member
I have. Buzacott 2hp made in Sydney
What I am asking is should there be significant compression
It's an older restoration and hasn't run for a few years
I have checked for a sticking valve and they seem ok
There is a little compression, I can hear it when I turn it over
Before I remove the head I though that I would ask
 

cobbadog

New member
Our 2HP Buzacott has a fair amount of compression and hard to just roll over compression. I always need to decompress before swing the cranky handle to start. Then it starts very well and runs smooth as silk.
As suggested, oil up the cylinder and get it to run. This might free up any sticky rings and may improve with a bit of use. Also check that you have the correct valve clearances and that one isn't slightly open loosing compression out there. Be carefull with the exhaust valve clearance as you can have it too tight and open the valve onto the piston.
We need to use the little choke arm for an initial start to draw the fuel up from the tank and only need about 3/4 of a turn from shut off to make it start and run.
 

Ingledew

New member
Thanks Cobbadog
I will give it a try
You mention a decompression
Is there a decompression lever or valve fitted to these engines that I can't see
 

GeorgeC

New member
Not sure, but don't these have a sprung atmospheric intake where you can just hold the intake valve open for the first rev or 2?
 

Scotty 2

Active member
Hello all
First of all: vertical or horizontal 2hp engine?
Either way the first thing to check are the valves and the valve seats. While the head's off also checks rings and bore.

Cheers Scott
 

Scotty 2

Active member
Hello all
First check valve clearance (16 thou). If they're OK then off with it's head to check valves and seats.

Cheers Scott
 

cobbadog

New member
If yours is a hit n miss engine then GeorgeC is correct, you hold the inlet valve open and crank but stay away from the spark plug, it hurts if you get zapped.
If your is not hit n miss the Scotty is correct and after the oil treatment and no improvement it is "off with it's head".
So maybe a little bit more info even a pic if you can.
 

Ingledew

New member
Thank you to all the people that have commented on my post
It's been very helpful
I have taken the head off and the bore looks good, no score marks
I have lapped in the valves and appear to get a good surface
I place my hand over the top of the boar and there is quite a lot of suction when turning it over
My next step now that I have got this far is to remove the piston and check the rings
Any advice, is there a plate on the bottom of the engine that lets you get at the con rod
Also anyone know of a repair manual for this motor or where I can get a VRS gasket set
 

Attachments

Ingledew

New member
Thank you to all the people that have commented on my post
It's been very helpful
I have taken the head off and the bore looks good, no score marks
I have lapped in the valves and appear to get a good surface
I place my hand over the top of the boar and there is quite a lot of suction when turning it over
My next step now that I have got this far is to remove the piston and check the rings
Any advice, is there a plate on the bottom of the engine that lets you get at the con rod
Also anyone know of a repair manual for this motor or where I can get a VRS gasket set[/QUOTE]
 

Ingledew

New member
ok
I have removed the piston and confirmed that there are no broken rings or marks on the bore
I will check the ring gap, anyone know what the gap needs to be

There is a loose bush I'd the con todo gudgon pin Ita a good fit in the pin but loose in the rod
Any suggestions would be helpful
 

AussieIron

Subscriber
Are the rings stuck in the grooves or are they free? They need to be able to expand out to get good compression. If an engine has been sitting a while the rings may stick in the piston grooves, once you get it running, the compression usually picks up.
 

cobbadog

New member
Google 'ring gap' as there is a basic rule of thumb for gap per inch in diameter from my failing memory. New gudgeon pin bush may be available through Don Reid on the Gold Coast but you will need a reamer to adjust the final size to suit the pin.
 

Ingledew

New member
The rings are not stuck, appear free
2 compression rings and 1 oil ring
The gudgeon pin bush is loose in the conrod
 

AussieIron

Subscriber
If it is a bush and rod with no adjustment, and the wear is noticeable, you may need a new bush while you've got it apart. I'm not familiar with this engines gudgeon set up. This problem has nothing to do with your original lack of compression problem though.
 

cobbadog

New member
G'Day Ingledew,
Have you put a ring inside the bore and measured it as yet? Give Don Reid a call on the Gold Coast for another bush, you might as well replace it while it is apart and they wont be expensive. Sometimes a bearing shop may have a bush to suit your needs but they will need to see what it is unless you can provide the specs it is.
 

Ingledew

New member
i have places one ring in the bore and there is about 1/16 inch gap, I'm not sure if this is too much
I have a local engineering shop replacing the little end bush in the con rod
I'm in need of a gasket set or a head gasket to be more accurate if anyone knows where I can get one, the old one is intact but I would rather use a new one
Tom
 
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