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Cant get any spark on my Lincwelder 225

justweldit

Registered
Ive got early/mid seventies Lincwelder 225 with an ONAN CCKA generator. Ive had it for a few years and other than a dead battery now and then, Its always ran great. Its been sitting outside for about a year or so now, (my fault) and it wont start now. I can get it to turn over but theres no spark. So far Ive looked at the magneto, cleaned everything etc but still no spark. I was thinking of buying new point/condenser. I just popped the cover off and they do look dirty so Ill try cleaning them first. Also I think the plug wires are shot, they look real bad. Im not really experienced with small engines and any advise would be great. And also, wheres the best place to get parts?
Thank You
 

Arlie Levy

Registered
When an engine sits outside you will have problems. You are on the right track. Clean and regap the points. Make sure the wiring is ok. Check kill switch first. You will probably have some fuel and carberator problems. You can do it. It takes time and patience. Arlie
 

justweldit

Registered
Thanks. I'm confident Ill find the problem eventually. Please be more specific about the mag wire and Ill try it. Thanks
 

Dempster

Registered
The kill or stop wire from the mag to the switch I think he meant? Disconnect it as the wire or switch could be bad or grounding it out and then see if you have fire at the plugs. Corroded points aren't going to let it fire and condensers or coils can go bad just sitting with age. Use a good copper or metallic core spark plug wire on a magneto and non resistor spark plugs. Get it flushed out with some fresh gas and may need new spark plugs as well.
 

Michaeljp86

Registered
I just had a no spark problem on my wisconsin engine. open the magneto and hold a jumper wire from the ground to the copper tab on the coil and turn the engin over and watch for a spark to jump. If you get spark then you know your problem if with the points, cap, or plug wires.
 

lmr824

Registered
hi, ive got the same welder been though many batteries,also check your fuel pump some small screens in there,had problems with this many times,onan parts so exspensive,good luck............mike
 

Olsmokey

Registered
Hello good day! I am also from Alberta! Also trying to fix my bosses first welder LincWeld 225 also with the Ohnan CCK engine
It runs and is more complete I can help with pictures of how things go together

my problem with the welder is the diaphragm gov throttle control with the solenoid venting vacuum off exhaust is not working properly , when the unit is dead the butterflies are held wide open, push to start the unit it fires up great! Returns to idle..
When you go to strike a arc and weld the solenoid doesn’t throttle up the engine...very small spark off the stinger end.
When you shut the unit off the diaphragm opens the carb wide open to start next time.
I want to figure out how to test the solenoid.
I can’t find the code to get the manuals properly I’m stumped there, thanks
I will try Ohnan thread
 

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cobbadog

Registered
Sounds to me like the governor is working correctly by holding the butterflies wide open when not running and then returning it to idle when started.
The tricky bit sounds as if the solenoid is either stuck or not working. With everything turned off can you pull the push rod out by hand on the solenoid?If not that would indicate it has frozen in that position and needs to be freed up. If it can be pulled out by hand then you need to put a live wire to it and see if that actuates the plunger. If a live wire makes it work then you have a broken wire or power supply.
 

Olsmokey

Registered
Sounds to me like the governor is working correctly by holding the butterflies wide open when not running and then returning it to idle when started.
The tricky bit sounds as if the solenoid is either stuck or not working. With everything turned off can you pull the push rod out by hand on the solenoid?If not that would indicate it has frozen in that position and needs to be freed up. If it can be pulled out by hand then you need to put a live wire to it and see if that actuates the plunger. If a live wire makes it work then you have a broken wire or power supply.
I thought it was working also by WOT shut off and starts up idles down, just no ramp up when you want to strike a arc

everything turned off check the rod of the solonoid for movement ok I can do that Monday!!! I just wasn’t sure how to test the part Properly or if the input signal from the welder would have anything to do with it. Thanks cobbadog
 

cobbadog

Registered
Without a manual it will be a case of testing all the parts until the fault is found. By using a basic test lamp like what an auto electrician uses with a wire to ground and a pointed handle with a test lamp in the handle get some to strike an arc while you test for power to the solenoid. If power is found not at idle but when the arc is struck then the circuit board is working and the solenoid needs attention.
Or you can disconnect the aires to the solenoid and hot wire it to see if it works. These are basic tests that can't hurt and you will learn more about your welder. At least I think it is worth a try until someone with far more knowledge than me will jump in and save us both.
 

Olsmokey

Registered
Hot wire it with 12 or 24? 12 I think, I can clearly follow the wires to where they go.
4 wires to the Solonoid. Going to try this manual again is such a grief decoding... Lincon says I need a 4 digit code.. I don’t see 4 digits on the face plate AC53A2E3-6939-4796-8B5E-29ECDCAA4D20.jpeg9469EC9A-EB4E-474A-8E03-D9FB80FCA8C5.jpegD4D64197-3EA8-4A83-BAC1-277E63DF75E9.jpegC4133959-50EF-4252-A035-BBD4910E1758.jpeg6176F02B-E40F-4F56-9098-6A54E67BD332.jpeg
 

Carteret

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Last Subscription Date
04/13/2020
OLSMOKEY; looking @ you’re pictures, somebody’s had their mits in there. First get rid of that stack of washers, it’s not factory.

The engine has a governor already, use it, let it do it’s job. That should give you welding output. There should be NOTHING to hold up the governor, lest you over rev. the engine and attempt to scatter internal parts.
The idle control is just that, makes the engine
idle down. You don’t need that to weld.
Next is the vacuum actuator: disconnect the line and make sure it’s clear. Then start machine and check for vacuum.
 

Olsmokey

Registered
OLSMOKEY; looking @ you’re pictures, somebody’s had their mits in there. First get rid of that stack of washers, it’s not factory.

The engine has a governor already, use it, let it do it’s job. That should give you welding output. There should be NOTHING to hold up the governor, lest you over rev. the engine and attempt to scatter internal parts.
The idle control is just that, makes the engine
idle down. You don’t need that to weld.
Next is the vacuum actuator: disconnect the line and make sure it’s clear. Then start machine and check for vacuum.
Haha those were my mitts! I couldn’t figure out how to attach the throttle linkage to the Gov rod, I couldn’t figure how it attaches. trying to find that out. There’s a hole in the rod for a cotter pin or somthing, it pushes out to increase Rpms. Anything else feel free to chime in I’m motivated to make this this live again
It’s starts with butterflies wide open and as soon as it starts, it kicks down to idle. I do see the arm on the side of the box move out to do that. Just on start up and turning off the machine, striking a arc there’s tiny tiny sparks off the rod
I got somewhat of the instructions on the vacume gov, have to test the volts inputting into it from the welder side under load or somthing along those lines, rig up a test lead off the battery but I’m afraid of frying stuff
 
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AlanR

Registered
Remove the washers on the rod - those are going to make it go MUCH slower on idle than it should. There's a good chance that everything is ok except you have it idling so slow that it isn't making enough voltage to actuate the solenoid. The 'idle' on these is not a real idle, more like half or 1/3 full speed. Take the washers off but leave the cotter pin, use the idle speed screw ON THE CARBURETOR (on the throttle shaft on the OTHER side of the carb from where the throttle linkage hooks up) to raise the idle speed a bit if needed, and try again.

DON'T put battery voltage on the solenoid - it only takes something like 1/2 volt to actuate.

Alan
 

Olsmokey

Registered
Remove the washers on the rod - those are going to make it go MUCH slower on idle than it should. There's a good chance that everything is ok except you have it idling so slow that it isn't making enough voltage to actuate the solenoid. The 'idle' on these is not a real idle, more like half or 1/3 full speed. Take the washers off but leave the cotter pin, use the idle speed screw ON THE CARBURETOR (on the throttle shaft on the OTHER side of the carb from where the throttle linkage hooks up) to raise the idle speed a bit if needed, and try again.

DON'T put battery voltage on the solenoid - it only takes something like 1/2 volt to actuate.

Alan
oh darn I see what I did there ok I’ll fix that pronto and try that! That you Alan!
 

cobbadog

Registered
Thanks for the pics it opens up another possible failure and that is your diaphram, does it work with the vacuum? Is the vacuum line blocked?
I have no clue where the 4 digit number would be on your engine but on a B&S engines all the numbers are stamped onto the engine cowl near the spark plug.
 
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