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Cletrac E-38 Rusty Restoration

bigGURN

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04/01/2012
I adjusted the timing a little more and cleaned up the carburetor that came with the tractor (a Marvel in place of the Tillotson). Fired right up with the adjusted timing and the carburetor... need to go through the Tillotson that I have and see which will work better... oh and those two holes where the cooling fan tower mounts... they toss out oil :bonk:

 

bigGURN

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Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
The fire wall is in, this enabled me to plumb in the oil pressure gauge (which shows 30PSI, right in the money!).




While working on the dash I decided to make a "key" for the factory ignition switch. Took awhile to make it, but its functional and looks pretty decent IMHO. The switch shuts the magneto right down as it should.




If you look on the dash, you'll notice another gauge on the right hand side, this is an ammeter. This tractor apparently had a generator and lights originally, something I'll have to locate! I found an issue with the radiator, one whole row of tubs is shot through by a .22, so I'll have to pull the tanks and solder those tubes closed... since I couldn't install the radiator, I figured a 30 second drive wouldn't hurt... still need to figure out a carburetor, this one is just worn out!
 

bigGURN

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Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
I wrapped up the day installing the fuel tank and disassembling the radiator.





Found a couple of cracks in the lower radiator tank. I'll have to get it blasted and cleaned up. Then decide how I want to weld it.
 

bigGURN

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Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
The deed is done. While prepping everything this morning I found four sticks of 3/32" nickel rod in my rod selection. Since it was so thin and I could use it at low amperage (90 amps vs the 120 amps of the 1/8") I drug out the old Lincoln 225 and went to work. I stuck the radiator tank on the wood stove, covered it with a blanket and let it heat up.



Once it was good and warm and all the smoke stopped rolling off it (from burning off all the old contaminants), I went to welding. The outside welded up nicely, then I moved to the inside. I used the air scaler between welds.



Once welded, I stuck it back on the stove and let it warm back up. Once it was warm again, I grabbed a grinder with a flappy disk and cleaned up the outside weld.


Back on the stove, up to temperature again. Once it was up to temp, I put the welded part in a bucket, filled it with floor dry, wrapped the upper half in the welding blankets and have left it sit. Three hours later I can still feel the heat radiating off. I'll leave it until tomorrow morning.
 
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bigGURN

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
I just finished up soldering the punctured tubes closed on the core. Now to town for cork gasket to make new gaskets and mount the upper tank.
 

bigGURN

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Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
Pulled the radiator tank out, found two pin hole leaks. Filled them with green lock tire. Then sealed the tank inside and out with rustoleum rust sealer (enamel based sealer, is amazing stuff). Back together and temporarily in place, just couldn't resist!




My lovely wife cut me some vinyl templates/stencils so I could paint on some art work. Can't wait to finish assembly!







 

bigGURN

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Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
Wayne, she has a machine called a Silhouette. It's a home craft cutting machine. One of the best Christmas presents I ever bought her! Hahaha. I do the art work and she does the hard, tedious part (cutting, weeding, and prepping the vinyl). It was 23° when I woke up, now it's a blistering 31°
 

bigGURN

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Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
Spent some time working on the E-38 today. I sewed up a new set of shifter and steering lever boots last week, so I installed those first.


Then I moved on to plumbing in the fuel system. Under the tank I plumbed the two parts (gasoline starter cell and the Kerosene cell) into a tee then through the sediment bowl. I wanted to plumb in the Kerosene manifold, but I wanted to be sure that no fuel actually ever went through the manifold. To solve this issue, I tapped the tee and the manifold to carburetor fitting to fit a 1/4-28 machine screw. I taped up the screw, installed it and cut the head off. Filed flat and now no fuel can pass!






Everything looks like it should, but its non-functional.


I wrapped up the afternoon by finishing up the cooling system installation. I placed some rubber belting under the radiator to provide cushion and isolation and installed the new radiator hoses and clamped them in place.


Quick test run on the rebuilt carburetor and the new fuel system shows it running much smoother.


I need to address the intake/filtration next, then the hood can go on and it'll be done! (Until spring when I'll have the seat recovered). I'd really like to find a generator and lights to go back on this tractor since that was factory equipment for it.
 

bigGURN

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Last Subscription Date
04/01/2012
I wrapped up the remaining items on the E-38 yesterday. Had to assemble the intake, install the hood, install the front tow hook, and install the new rubber grips on the steering levers. I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out. I'm a huge fan of leaving tractors as found when it comes to paint, it really gives them some history. Come spring, I'll have the seat recovered and I may pull the fuel tank back off to coat the inside. Currently, it's too cold to coat it and expect it to dry. The inside is rust free, and I'd kinda like to keep it that way! Parked it away with the Cletrac 20C, Cletrac W, and my Caterpillar Twenty-Two. My Cletrac F is in the back of the barn. Have to get all four out next spring for a family picture.









 
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