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David Bradley rider, tell me more about it

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
I got this today. Appears to have been gold in color.
No engine. The center lever is either very stiff or froze.
A friend has 1 similar or the same,I aint compared them side by side yet.He said it uses a 14 Briggs.
I can not determine what held up the back of the hood either.
91760601 is the number on the plate.
The dang rear wheels will not turn,you can not push or pull. They will turn opposite directions if you turn the pulley. Wound up dragging it on the trailer and having to really struggle using ramps and my sore back to get it on the truck.
I would think you should be able to push it?
Also, what type of hitch fits on the back? 1 broke bolt but I think I can remove it.
 

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FWurth

One Millionth Post
Last Subscription Date
07/29/2019
You have the remains of a Suburban 725. We had a later version at one time. The rear hood mount was attached to the motor cyl head and the hood hinged forward. They used a Briggs of 7.25 hp, ours had the recoil rope start but they were available with the starter/ generator system. Yours has the brakes on the rear axle ours had it elsewhere but I don't recall just now but it had a foot pedal on it. The thing has a variable speed belt sheave instead of a gear trans. There should be a small disc clutch on the reduction gear. It was a good unit for the time but you had to use severe service belts and have every thing properly adjusted for it to perform satisfactory, They were available with a full line of garden implements.
 

FWurth

One Millionth Post
Last Subscription Date
07/29/2019
No there's no ratchets in the axle assy, the tractor has a reverse belt on the rear reduction gear so a ratchet can't work and still have reverse drive. There is a differential unit in that gearbox. The most difficult issue will be the front variable speed pulley and the drive pulley on the engine as they aren't the common off the shelf spares.
 

IWL BCNU

Registered
Above info is for a later tractor. You have a 1959 5.75 hp tractor. The tractors will not roll very easily, and basically have to be dragged. it is the design of the differential. The manuals and a lot of info are on the net if you google the 917 number. I have a 614, same tractor just a later year.
The center lever is your forward reverse clutch, look underneath and you will see the plate that needs to be freed up to make it work.
 

FWurth

One Millionth Post
Last Subscription Date
07/29/2019
Yes the tractor in the photos is the earlier version. The main changes in the later version would be the size motor and the hood is a bit different shape. As in all things every newer version required more power! These little riders were using motors in the 5 to 7 hp range just fine, my last rider now has a 25 hp motor just to mow the same grass! Ours was a 63 model iirc, been a long time since we traded it off for small utility tractor. The basic chassis is the same and all the implements will fit all versions. The line of implements was very extensive and would make for a terrific collection in it's own rite. I don't believe any other line offered any where near as many different accessories for their line.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
I have wanted 1 like this for a while now.
What happened I brought home a Kawaski mule to get running for the fellow and the intention was to trade out some of the labor for this machine. He wants a 100 bucks for it. I told him I was thinking 50 to 75 max.
Uh, I guess what I am saying is unless I hear different as in it is worth that ,I may be loading it back up and putting that 100 towards a project already in progress.
 

FWurth

One Millionth Post
Last Subscription Date
07/29/2019
I can't give you a value for it but I'm not swimming in cash so tend to be a bit frugal. And I sure know that a $100 don't go far today, but unless he has more than what I see in your photo, I think your offer would be a closer to reality range. There is a dedicated group that collect these Sears tractors, so they may well have driven the prices up significantly.
 

4BadHotrodBrent

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
05/25/2019
It's worth a $100 dollars in cash for parts, but there's quite a bit missing there. You would have upwards of $250 worth of new tires alone including a proper engine. Personally I would say $50 to $75 max. I collect them and that's what I would give for it. I think you wouldn't get hurt by buying it, there really aren't many of them around. Most collectors in the need of the hood alone would give you $75. Shoot throw a later model 8hp Briggs with some "take off " tires and use it around the yard!:)

Brent

Here's a thread that was started on one. https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46512

---------- Post added at 06:53:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41:31 PM ----------

Here's some pics and info. I can help you with belt sizes, engine pulley size, along with the hood latch dimensions if you would want to do a resto mod tractor.





https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90744

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94069


https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142484
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
I went and looked at a 1960 awhile ago. This 1 has the deck and everything on it but a square hood. The fellow has the belt guard that is missing on this 59. I think it could be copied . the fellow that has the 60 told me his had a 14 B briggs with a standard pulley on it and the varidrive is the pulley on the side of the frame.

Well it looks like i will have another machine that requires that elusive 5.75 hp briggs engine that is so hard to find parts for like my Panzer has.


The 8 inch wheels for the front and the steering wheel are my major concern for restore. i have wheels and tires for the rear.

Like I needed another project. :uhoh::crazy::)
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
well I told him I thought it was a bit much. He went 80 and threw in a decent Edleman push-mower that I had wanted for a long time because it is like my grandfathers. So David bradley has a new home.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
During lulls in the other stuff in my shop,I am going to start soaking wheels for this machine in the electrolosis barrel. What color off the sholf spray blue is close? I have several pint cans of a "royal blue" I think it is.
That is probably what I will use unless it is supposed to be real light.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
I had the "urge" to work on this thing. So it is hanging on the cherry picker now.I found a nice set of take apart wheels for the front except 6 instead of 8 inch.Same wheels I put on the Panzer and they look fine. For free and they are new,I will use them. I put new 3/4 bearings in them instead of the 1/2 inch so they would fit the machine.I could not beleive the bolt holding the left front wheel on was LEFT hand thread!:crazy:
I was scared the broke bolt in the rear end where a lift was mounted would be a pain to remove. I heated and let it cool twice with the torch and it screwed out almost with my fingers.:)
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
[

[/COLOR]Here's some pics and info. I can help you with belt sizes, engine pulley size, along with the hood latch dimensions if you would want to do a resto mod tractor.




I came back to this because I do need to know the belt sizes and engine pully size along with hood latch info. I thought I had a engine that was right for it,guy said it came from a David bradley but the shroud is a later 1 and there is not the correct model plate.It is also a mechanical govenor engine.BUT if I measure the pulley and it is right,then all won't be lost for what I paid for it.:brows:
I have a 1413?? something that I was told came off a simplictiy wonder boy and it is near running. Complete. But it has the smaller flojet carb than the 143--- 's do. But it would make the machine work and look similar enough.

Today I got the varidrive pulley cleaned and freed up along with the steering and park brake lever and so forth.It has wear BAD in the pin on the steering arms.I will take it apart and see what is worn and build it up.
The clutch lever,does not seem to move more than 1/4 inch either way,The slot in the frame is not wide enough to let it go further.I aint got it turned up side yet where I can see under it.I got to get tires on the back so it can sit on the floor and be held up with the engine crane.

Steering wheel, what else fits it as this 1 is shot.
 

FWurth

One Millionth Post
Last Subscription Date
07/29/2019
Just do a search on the net and there are the book and many parts available for these tractors, operators and parts book for $40-$50 on Ebay.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
Thanks,the more I look on the net the more I figure out I am missing! But I aint givin up. :D cause I aint got good sense!:crazy:
I was just reading a thread here on the stak and the Briggs 143402 engine was mentioned as being a upgrade from the 143302 engine because of the govenor. Does anyone have apic of 1? Reason I ask, the engine I was told was from a Bradley has the correct intake "neck" as the 143302 engine on my panzer and porter cables but this raggdy engine has a mechanical govenor.I may just post a pic of this engine tommorow and maby learn from it.
 

4BadHotrodBrent

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
05/25/2019
I will get you a pic of the later 14302 engine and its intake set up tomorrow . If you want some pictures and dimensions of the hood latch I will make it happen. I will also get a pic of the Rustoleum paint that is similar to the baby blue that David Bradley used. I don’t have the current belt dimensions on hand so you will have to wait maybe until after Christmas unless someone else chimes in.

I believe this is a good replacement for your steering wheel.
https://antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/David-Bradley


Brent
 

FWurth

One Millionth Post
Last Subscription Date
07/29/2019
These are really fun little tractors. We had one when I was little, First lawn mowing they let me do. The Briggs was considered quite a big engine back then, but I could manage to get it started. The trick to getting good performance from those belt drives is to use severe service belts and keep them in the correct adjustment. We had the 3pt hitch with a cultivator, sure saved me a lot of back breaking work pushing the old hand push one. That is till mom made us go back to it because of our poor driving skills that took out too many hills. We also had the front dozer blade, we put it too good use on our long road to the farm and clear the snow.
 

4BadHotrodBrent

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
05/25/2019
1. Ok,here are the attached pictures with dimensions of the hood latch support.

2. Your engine drive pulley should be a 3”.

3. Engine to speed changer belt size is 5/8” x 29”

4. Speed changer to trans belt size is 5/8” x 70”

5. Reverse belt size is 1/2” x 27
 

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uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
Thanks for any help provided!
I got the front wheels placed on it .
I watched some videos on youtube about this clutch thing! wow.
I also found I was missing a idler pulleyand spring which is no biggy,I will get that figured out. Here is a pic of that engine i was told was off a bradley but some things look "right" somethings are just WRONG. :shrug:
 

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