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Delco-Light start switch?

David M. Lyon

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2020
I placed an ad on the Spark Arks wanted section and didn't get any response...SO! I thought I would try here on the "Big Board" ...I am looking for a start switch for a Delco-Light 1 1/4 KW model if any one has a unit they are parting out...
If I wasn't looking for one, there would be twenty of them around!:eek:...I would buy the entire switch, or just the two pull-in coils because my housing and contacts are OK. Just the coils are burned out.
PM me if you have one...That's the last piece I need to complete this project!~:D
 

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GeneratorGus

Registered
Age
72
David, are you sure the coils are burned out. I've had a problem with that type of switch not holding if the battery voltage I was using was higher than it wanted to charge.
IE; I use three 12 volt batteries for 32 volt plants, some of my plants seem to think the battery is fully charged at that voltage, possibly caused by the plant running a little fast. If you can't adjust the speed, try putting a little resistance in in the circuit, or switch to lower voltage batteries, that is if your switch is burnt. Normal charging voltage output is usually somewhere between 38 and 40 volts

Sorry to say I have no spares, try contacting Delco Don.
 

David M. Lyon

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2020
Yeah, the large coil is fine, but the small winding is toast!~:bonk: Thanks for the tip on the voltage, I DID use three twelves originally, but changed to three golf cart Batteries that are 8 volts apiece...Really couldn't tell much difference.:shrug:
 

Mike Schweikert

Subscriber
Age
53
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
I can't remember the post, but I recall that someone actually wound their own shunt coil themselves. The inner coil of the switch is very fine winding. If someone can find it, or has made one, let us know.

Yep, I have two 850 Delcos, and luckily both switches are intact. It would be interesting to make one. It seems to be the most common problem with those switches in general.

The large coil is easy to make, just heavy wire......
 

David M. Lyon

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2020
If I am reading the schematic right,:bonk: the large winding holds the switch closed while the engine is starting, then the shunt (small) winding feeds through the field and holds in the RUN part of the switch until the battery is charged and there is not enough amperage to keep the pole manetized, and the switch opens and the engine stops...Is this about right?:confused:
 

Steve Wright

Registered
Last Subscription Date
10/10/2009
I have several parts engines, I am sure I could come up with a switch. I may not have a cover for it but you may have that. I am assuming they are the same as one on an 850. If a 1250 is different then no luck here. I had a 1250 once but gave it to Emil out at Gurley NE. Everyone should see Emil's collection, it's amazing.
Email me at stephenpam@hotmail.com put Delco-Light in the subject line so I don't think its junkmail.
Cheers
Steve
 

David M. Lyon

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2020
Yeah, Steve...Really, all I need is the small winding on the center post of the switch, but I could use the entire thing...either way!:brows:
 

Steve Wright

Registered
Last Subscription Date
10/10/2009
I haven't even got off the STAC yet and you reply. Well I'll start lookin tomorrow.
Steve
 

David M. Lyon

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2020
I actually now have a switch in VERY GOOD condition sent to me by another collector. But, it has the same problem as my rusty rough-lookin' one....The small coil or winding is burned out...Must have been a common problem with them!:shrug:
Here is a photo of the coil with the part number #12817 -32 volts
This is really the only piece I need!:brows:
Wonder what the chances would be of being able to dig into that winding and re-attaching the connectors and bring it back to life?...Slim and none?
 

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Warren Eastham

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/11/2019
David,

I'm thinking that there must be a solid state solution you could temporarily hide somewhere on the controller that would solve this problem....but I don't know what it is!

Good Luck! Keep us posted.

Thanks,

Warren
 

Mike Schweikert

Subscriber
Age
53
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
As you know, that is mighty fine wire. It needs to be able to carry a steady current in order to create the magnetism to hold the switch up. I had read somewhere that a person had rewound one

From 2001 on the Stak:

had a Delcolite 600 that had and open shunt coil. This is how I repaired it. First I made a spool out of Delrin rod that had an ID to fit the core. The flanges of the spool were machined to fit the current coil opening. I then went thru my relay collection and found a 24 volt relay that had the coil winding made of enamel wire and it was not sealed or varnished. I the transfered the wire from the relay spool to my replacement spool, hooked some flexible wire onto it and sealed it with fibreglass tape and varnish. I expected that I would have to do some adjusting with a series resistor to make the Delco relay drop out when the generator was shut off. It turned out that the cutout worked perfectly as wound. If you have a small lathe with a speed control this is a pretty simple fix.

However, I had also read that another fellow wound his and the current made the coil too hot. It must have something to do with the guage and length of the wire that governs this.

I am thinking of rewinding one myself.......

Mike
 
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