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Delta 8" table saw + 4" jointer combo (V-Belts & spare parts)

1215

Registered
I recently picked up a 34-160 table saw and a 37-290 jointer. They are in wonderful condition and came with lots of spare blades and accessories. The only two issues I'm having is finding belts and the front & rear trunnion clamps/parts. I spoke with Delta and the parts I need went NLA back in the early 80's. (Saw is mid-March 1951 and Jointer was either late March or early April 1951) They come up pretty cheap now & then locally but usually they are all in similar condition.


Wondering if anyone knows of a good source for good used or NOS parts. Also wondering if anyone knows a good source to buy replacement drive V-Belts.

(I'm thoroughly disgusted with the auto parts stores. Kid behind the counter didn't even know there was a tool that could measure belt lengths. All he wanted was year, make, model of a car so he could plug it into the computer.)

Thanks.


Oh --also, The jointer came with a couple sets of NOS replacement blades so I should be good for a (long) while. Wondering about Rockwell Hardness Scale. Delta gave me the blade dimensions (4" x 19/32" x 3/32 and a 53-degree bevel) and said replacement blades need to be a C-60 to a C-63 on the Rockwell Hardness Scale. Is that still used? Would I be able to go out and find other equivalent blades or should I treat the small stash I have like gold? Thanks again.
 

3v0

Registered
You should be able to get the blades from several choices. Amazon has ones with your dimensions but did not mention the bevel angle which I expect to be similar. But with the two sets you have you should not need replacements for a long time. There are severay DIY jigs on youtube for sharpening planer blades, 4 inchers should be fairly easy.

For belts you can always run link belts.

As for missing clamp parts you may have to make them.
 

CharlieB

Registered
You don't need Delta belts.
Go here to order any size you need:
http://www.totallybelted.com/cart.php?m=view
All you need to know is the V-belt width and the length measured at the outside diameter.
If you don't have an old belt to measure, run a strip of masking tape around the pulley rims and measure that. The site has instructions for converting the measured length to the belt number to order. The above site sells Gates belts, and you can count on the lengths being accurate. Be wary of belts coming from China or India. The lengths aren't always correct.
 

1215

Registered
For belts you can always run link belts.
Thanks. I've never used a link belt. Are they as great as everyone says they are? I know you get what you pay for... Is it worth it to try a HF belt or just spend a couple bucks more on a brand name?

As for missing clamp parts you may have to make them.
I was afraid of that. I can't seem to get the worm gear off the shaft. It almost looks like it's threaded on and then spot welded. That could be an issue. I have three extra (bad) parts. The worm gear is in either cast zink or white pot metal. Maybe I'll just ruin the worst part I have so I can pull the worm gear out.

---------- Post added at 11:16:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59:02 AM ----------

You don't need Delta belts.
Got it. I'm a car guy so I just went down to the local auto parts store and started playing with a few different sizes. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy some link belts. Motor is below the table saw and jointer. I'm not exactly sure if the motor is supposed to be loose and 'hang' to provide tension or if it's supposed to be bolted flat to the base and the belts are supposed to be properly sized. One issue I'm having with this tool is the combo table saw + jointer runs off the same motor. (one pulley on either side) This means both belts need to be perfect lengths (or just buy the link belts).

---------- Post added at 11:22:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:16:55 AM ----------

No edit button so I replied. I also can't seem to find a oil/lube/grease point in the motor. It's a Delta 1/2 hp 1750rpm 120/230v motor.
 

CharlieB

Registered
Link belts are good, especially if you would otherwise have to disassemble the machine to install a V-belt. A 60" length of link belt at Harbor Fright will cost $30. Two Gates V-belts would be around $25 including shipping. About the same, unless you need more than 60" of link-belt and need to spend another $30.
The motor is permanently lubricated. No grease or oil needed. Be sure to pull the cover off of the junction box on the motor and check to see which voltage the previous owner was running it at. It will be happier with 220V if you have that available.
 

3v0

Registered
The HF link belts work for me. Link belts are a bit louder than regular belts.

Now and then you can find used parts on ebay.
 

s100

Registered
I suggest you avoid link belts whenever possible. They are awful. They stretch and stretch and stretch and stretch.....If you have the old belts and if you can see any markings on them you can easily find replacements. You will be looking for numbers like 3L___ or 4L____ or possibly A____. For your use a 3L or 4L belt will be ideal. A word of caution, though. If you don't have your existing belt and instead measure circumference from the tops of the pulleys, and come up with some number, say 50", that does NOT mean you will want something like an A50. These belts measure the pitch diameter not the OD. I forget if the 3L and 4L belts are this way or not. Be advised. Belts can be bought at any well equipped hardware store for $3 or $4.

The advice to avoid Chinese and India belts is good so far as it goes. The challenge is to find belts that are made anywhere else. I once paid a hefty premium for a name brand belt (I'm about 99 percent sure it was Dayco) and the label said, "Made In China". i now use an outfit called "Global V Belt Supply". The belts are furrin but the company is all American. They are great people to deal with and the price is right. I can recommend them without reservation.

Years ago I had to replace a fan belt on an old Cat D4. Replacing the belt was a very big deal,even though it only ran the water pump and the fan. The hydraulic pump drove from the front of the crankshaft so there would be a lot of disassembly to get the belt installed, and i was already behind in my work. So I did the next best thing and installed a link belt. And from the day I installed it to the day I replaced it with a real belt, I was constantly fussing with the thing. What a headache. Honestly, I would have been as well off running the fan with a piece of rope spliced with friction tape.
 

slip knot

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/27/2019
I finally went with a link belt when I rehabbed my drill press. I don't know about the stretching issue but it certainly runs smoother than a Vbelt.

I don't know if I would run it in a high HP environment such as automotive/equipment.
 

Pete Spaco

Registered
I have used link v belts in several applications over the years.
They work well for me.
I have one driving the water pump and alternator on my old Ford backhoe, and yes, I have had to tighten it twice in about 8 years.
But not on the lathes.
I wonder if it's a temperature thing.

I did a little googling and found
"power twist" (fenner)
and "accu link".
Seem to be USA based.
I wonder if the HF link v belts might be inferior, but don't know for sure.
I did see that both the ones I mentioned above say they will work up to 240 degrees F.

Back in the '50's, we used a lot of link v belts on machine drive systems. They had leather links and metal rivets. I think they overlapped 3 links and were really tough to assemble. I like the modern ones better.

I think Sears sold a saw/jointer combo like the one you are talking about at about that time. Maybe Delta made it. I would have recommended trying Sears Parts for those missing or worn components, but I think they are about as bad a Delta or maybe even worse, lately. Besides, I don't know how you would come up with a model number.

Pete Stanaitis
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