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Dust system for wood shop?

DieselAddicted

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
Hi all,
I am getting ready to put a dust system in my shop and need some advise. My wood working equipment is a 15" planer, 8" long bed jointer,3HP shaper, table saw and compound miter saw. All equipment is on roller bases and shares the same building with my metal working equipment and general shop work. The simple easy solution would be one of the stand alone blower/ dust bag and filter set ups. How well do they filter the fine dust? I am also thinking about a blower and duct work and venting outside to a cyclone that I already own. Looking for some real world experiance plusses and minuses of each system.
Thanks in advance.
 

G.M.Johnson

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/05/8018
Re: Dust system for wood shop??

Where I work we have machines that create paper milling dust, and we use the Grizzly dust collector units and they work very well.
 

s100

Registered
D.A.,

The fact that you already have a cyclone makes it, at first glance, I good potential solution. But if your machines are portable, and thus not tied to a fixed location, and if you heat your shop in winter, the cyclone starts to lose its appeal fairly quickly. Sure, you could tie a hose or two to a main trunk leading to the cyclone and just run the hoses to the machines as needed, but running the cyclone in a heated building in winter will suck all the heat our of your shop fairly quickly. Overall the best solution is to have one or two of the cheapo portable units such as are sold by Jet, Grisly and Harbor Fright. I see these in used condition come up for sale fairly often here in Detroit, sometimes as cheap as $30 - $50. With one of these you will have the dust collection close by your machine and out of the way when you don't need it. But that's only half the equation. These dust collectors do a good job of catching the larger stuff, but the fine dust can be problematic, especially if you are using something like a sander. A cost effective solution here is to take a plain old cheap box fan and secure a furnace filter to the thing, and set it near where you are working. This super cheap solution works amazingly well for keeping the air clean.

Of the machines you mention, the planer makes the most mess, and scatters it around pretty thoroughly. The jointer is pretty much of a non issue as the chips just flow down the chute and land on the floor. A broom and dustpan is all that is needed here. The toughest one will be the table saw as it wants to throw dust back up at you instead of depositing it politely in the dust trough below. The miter saw is less of an issue and if you make a duct behind the saw blade you can catch most of the dust.

And in case you hadn't noticed, wood dust can be pretty insidious. It gets all over and into all sorts of places. It was me, and I had a combination shop as you describe, I'd go to the cheapo stores and get some of those poly tarps to cover the metal machines when you are doing wood work. This will save you a lot of aggravation.
 

DustyBar

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
01/14/2020

Pete Spaco

Registered
I agree on the need for a dust collection system, especailly after milling som black walnut a few years ago and having some respiratory problems for a while afterwards.
Here's what I did:
http://spaco.org/WoodShop/MyHomeWoodShop.htm

The main features:
-The overarm "crane" and long hose that allow me to reach all the major machines that aren't against the wall
-Sears 1 HP dust collector, similar to what others have mentioned.
-Garbage can cyclone lid connected to the output of the planer
-In one of the pictures, you can see the box fan that was mentioned previously. Sometimes I use it for the wood lathe and I often run it when sanding. As mentioned before, it works very well. I use the cheapest furnace filters and they can be taken outside and shaken out as needed. The 20" X 20" filter and two pieces of masking tape do the trick.
-Note that the radial arm saw and a small jointer are permanently piped in, with a couple of gates. I do, however, have to remember to open and close the right ones when I change machines.
-I did use the inexpensive plastic gates. The valve "slides" seem to clog up from time to time and then they don't close all the way. I have to take the hose off of one side and probe the collected dust out of the back corners of the slide area to get them working properly again. Maybe the better, (metal?) ones don't have this problem?
Yes, I know it's somewhat of a hassle to have to move the overarm hose from one machine to another, but that advantage of having decent dust collection far outweigh the few seconds of extra work to make the change.
-One thing I'd like to add is a "remote" that would turn the dust collector on and off.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------
 

grub54891

Registered
Age
63
Last Subscription Date
06/08/2010
I have a harbor freight cyclone, works ok, but when on the planer, it plugged up right away. I had to cut out the screen right before the blower in order to keep it from plugging up.
 

Ronald E. McClellan

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
01/05/2020
I would go for The blower cyclone outside of the building. The fine dust and the gasses that you don't see can bother you. Use round metal ductwork with cleanout openings about every 6 feet big enough to get your arm and brush in to clean. No obstructions inside the duct not even screws. It will make the cleanout much easier. Ron
 

dalmatiangirl61

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
If you want to filter the air for really fine dust, look for an Aerospace America air scrubber. These are used in asbestos abatement, so if you find a used one dispose of the filter and clean the housing very very well before you use it. I use one of these in my home restoration, its the only way to control fine dust. Filters are not cheap, but they do pop up on ebay from time to time, still not cheap but at least in the affordable category. Filters I'm using filter down to .3 micron. My only complaint about it is it is noisy, even on low speed, looking at the website I do see they have one now with a speed control.
http://www.aerospaceamerica.com/600_9145.htm
 

DieselAddicted

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
Well here is what I ended up with.
4" plastic pipe and three drops going to a re-purposed feed mill cyclone.


Then overhead is this 3HP baghouse type air cleaner that I picked up on Crags list for cheap. The intake is out of the picture to the rear. The pipes going to the side and down return the filtered air to registers in the ceiling of the shop below.
 

John Hanson

Registered
Last Subscription Date
12/05/2008
The bad part of that plastic pipe is the static charge that builds up in it while you're using it.
JH
 

DustyBar

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
01/14/2020
Talk about shocks from static. I rented one of those insulation blowers but the hose was too short to reach up two stories. I laid 6" pvc pipe up two stair wells and connected them with flex pipe. I was in the attic blowing insulation and got nailed every 10 to 15 seconds. It was not fun and there was no way I could reach the shutoff switch.
 

Thaumaturge

In Memory Of
Age
68
Last Subscription Date
07/12/2019
To cure static problems spray inside of hoses with 409 or any detergent based cleaner. Just a very thin film left to dry. (Don't run vacuum while coating.) Then add ground straps at each connection.
A thin soap film is just conductive enough to dissipate static charges.
Doc
 

Thaumaturge

In Memory Of
Age
68
Last Subscription Date
07/12/2019
Problem relative to relative humidity. ;) To simplify grounding just run a single bare copper wire down tube and hook any part of it to earth ground. Still do detergent mist as well.
Doc
 
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