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FI Briggs with NO Spark

Dale Russell

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
08/29/2019
That is correct Mike. According to the info on "Briggs Magneto Data" the Type A Mag. was used on the following, Briggs Models, A, B, H, K,Y, Z. Dale
 

Dale Russell

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
08/29/2019
Doug, The type A Mag. & Flywheel is physically smaller on type A than the earlier Type F Mag. Ref. 'Briggs Magneto Data'
 

Dale Russell

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
08/29/2019
Bump! Bunp! Still looking for a Serviceable Type F Magneto used in the following Briggs Models; F, FB, FC, FE, FG, FH, FI, FJ, L, M, P, PB, Q, R, S, T, & W, The Secondary winding from the Plug to Ground needs to Read 2000--3000 Ohm's to Ground to be serviceable. I can use either the coil & lamentations or the complete magneto with Backing Plate. Let me know what you have.
 

KidDynamo

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
02/18/2020
I believe I have an N.O.S. coil (with laminated core). I have tested it for spark but not resistance on the secondary. I would sell it and ship it to Kansas for $100 total. The original insulation on the wire to the points was falling apart so I replaced that with something much better and it looks good too. I can take some photos of it if you want and in the meantime, I will figure out how to message you through this newer version of Smokstak. If you're not interested, I won't bother.

Be advised, I'm not online everyday. Its a great original F- series coil, but it is just sitting around with other items to sell or trade and now that I've "gone public", I won't limit my sale of it just to you. John (Kid Dynamo)
 

Dale Russell

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
08/29/2019
I believe I have an N.O.S. coil (with laminated core). I have tested it for spark but not resistance on the secondary. I would sell it and ship it to Kansas for $100 total. The original insulation on the wire to the points was falling apart so I replaced that with something much better and it looks good too. I can take some photos of it if you want and in the meantime, I will figure out how to message you through this newer version of Smokstak. If you're not interested, I won't bother.

Be advised, I'm not online everyday. Its a great original F- series coil, but it is just sitting around with other items to sell or trade and now that I've "gone public", I won't limit my sale of it just to you. John (Kid Dynamo)
John, Does it have a Part # on it, just want to be sure it is the one I need. Yes, I am interested. Is this just the Coil or is it on the backing plate. I assume that from, your previous post, it does produce a SPARK? Are the Laminations with the Coil? Yes I would like to see Photo's. Put your courser over my name and click "Start a conversation" to send me Photo's and email.
 
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batrider

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
02/14/2020
My coil measured infinite resistance but still worked by the spark jumping that gap internally. That's the one I rewound. Resistance should still be checked (ideally). Also, A NOS coil may have the same corrosion / potential failure issues as one that has been in a machine. Wire insulation and the insulating sheets between layers are made of much better materials these days. I used Nomex between layers. Stock coil was waxed paper.
 

Dale Russell

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
08/29/2019
Thanks batrider for the Info. I still need a Coil. Yes, the materials are much better than 100 yrs. ago.
 

Turbo

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/12/2019
My coil measured infinite resistance but still worked by the spark jumping that gap internally. That's the one I rewound. Resistance should still be checked (ideally). Also, A NOS coil may have the same corrosion / potential failure issues as one that has been in a machine. Wire insulation and the insulating sheets between layers are made of much better materials these days. I used Nomex between layers. Stock coil was waxed paper.
Batrider makes a very good point. IMO any original coil is a risk. I would not pay any more than $30 for one. The problem does not come from use it comes from moisture, and a coil sitting on a shelf for 80 years may have the same problem as one in an engine.
 

KidDynamo

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
02/18/2020
Thanks batrider for the Info. I still need a Coil. Yes, the materials are much better than 100 yrs. ago.
I think you'll be happy if you purchase one of the coils rewired with modern materials recommended on here. I am withdrawing my offer and keeping my coil for local use. Good luck!
 

Dale Russell

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
08/29/2019
I am also looking for a new Crankshaft Bushing #68234 that is mounted in the Magneto backing plate On the FI Briggs. Anyone know of a source for that bushing?
 

Turbo

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/12/2019
As far as I know there is nobody making this bushing. Your only two options will be to make one or find a good used one. How worn is yours? I don't think I have ever found one that wasn't still serviceable. I can look through my stash. I may have a good used one.
 

I like oldstuff

Registered
Last Subscription Date
11/09/2015
I won't be much help here with models or part numbers as it was about 35 years ago so take it fwiw:

My FI ran for a short while when I got it and cleaned the sludge out but then quit. The 1928 tar and paper coil gave up the ghost.
I used a new coil from briggs that is fairly modern in a sense as it's a molded resin style from a later briggs likely from the 50's era with the large horseshoe type mag. This fit on the laminations and works just fine. It's still using the 1928 rectangular type condenser.

Scrounge the parts catalogs and maybe you'll stumble across one that is a repop or find an original part.
 

Dale Russell

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
08/29/2019
Thanks for the concern Guys but I talked to Bob at "Bob's Small Engines" & he told me in 5 minutes that I don't want to go down that road of replacing that Bearing. Bob says that that Bearing is NLA & that it was originally lined with Babbitt. So IF you were to replace it, you would have to bore out the Babbitt then RE-BUSH the Bearing with a Bronze bushing & than bore the new bushing to fit the Crankshaft. Not going that route.
To get the Crankshaft Bearing out of the Backing plate, you have to disassemble the Engine, Remove the Crankshaft & drive the bearing out from the INSIDE OF THE Engine. Bob cautioned me that the POT METAL backing plate that the Coil mounts on is VERY FRAGILE & will break like glass. I am not going that route & take a chance of destroying the Backing Plate. Glad I talked to Bob before I found out the HARD WAY! I am going to get MY Coil REWOUND & TRY to get the engine running with the original bearing. Will let you know if I am successful or not, my Grandson sure wants to see it running, hopefully it will.
 
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