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GMC 1928 T20 Truck Restoration

GMCtrucker

Registered
Dear friends, Dad and I are restoring our granddad GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK and we have some help request from your acknowledge if possible.
At first, we are going to have a copy of the data plate but our original has some unreadable wording.
Do someone have a photo of one of these plates so we can complete the missing info?
Thanks a lot for your support.
 

Craig A

Moderator
Staff member
Age
68
Last Subscription Date
12/20/2015
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

....... :p ....... :brows: ....... :rotfl:

Welcome to Stak!........ :D
 

CaseyJoeS.

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Wish I had some information to help you out with, but sounds like a great project! Hope to see some pictures!
 
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Welcome to Smokstak, Compare your tag to that of a Pontiac or an Oakland. The light Duty T series trucks started out in 1927 with a Pontiac Badge on them in 1927. In 1928 it was the same truck re-badged as a GMC Post some Pictures! Best Regards Paul
 

GMCtrucker

Registered
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Hi friends.
Thanks Craig A and Casey JoeSfor the kind welcome, I am proud of being part of this community.
Well yeah, photos should help alot...sorry just starting to know how to work in a forum.
I been able to decode the hard to read info from the plate. By now just missing the info of the lower end of the plate where the "GENERAL MOTORS EXPORT Co" is. Hardly can see the last wording over this company name wording something like ?????????PONTIAC?????USA.
Our idea is to contact "hiperlightflyguy" in ebay to made a new acid etched aluminium plate but I need to supply him all the missing info first.:salute:
 

Attachments

Steve Kunz

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Here is a picture of my 1934 GMC that I restored. I can not remember if the data plate is the same. I have it stored in my buddys garage I will see if he can get a picture of it.

Steve
 

Attachments

GMCtrucker

Registered
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Just to update a little, I left aside the ID Plate and gone FWD with other things.
So far we have painted and installed the firewall, installed the Marvel Carb and the heat riser, installed the vacuum tank, wood steering wheel and some other details.

Actually, I am making some thinking about the Hand brake. Since this truck wasnt fitted with front wheel brakes it used a large Hand Brake lever (or it is what I believe) but ours is incomplete and I dont have a idea of how shoul it looks when installed at the trans side, so if someone can give me some light I will appreciate it a lot. I included some photos of our advance and some of the hand brake lever and apologize cause they looks mess
 

Attachments

Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Im picking one up on the weekend coming up!
Its a pretty complete truck!
I can send picks (or post) when I get it home!
monty
 

Oldtech

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/14/2019
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Your truck has a standard series Buick engine -( I think most T 20s would have a Pontic engine.) That's good. It is the same as a 27 Buick car- small series. It's possible it is a 27 as 28 had a fuel pump, not the vacuum tank, but hey, they mixed and matched back then. I have lots of info on these engines if you need any help.
 

OTTO-Sawyer

Subscriber
Age
57
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Im picking one up on the weekend coming up!
Its a pretty complete truck!
I can send picks (or post) when I get it home!
monty
Welcome to the Stak Monty. :wave:

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new truck.

:salute:
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Typically, early handbrakes did not go to the axles! Instead, they went to a band that went around a drum mounted on the driveshaft. When you pulled back on the lever, it would tighten the band around the drum, providing friction and stopping the truck.
 
ok.. a guy told me theres a tag on the engine..and frame.. I found one on the engine. not the frame
you guys help me out? on the frame somewhere?

cheers
monty
 

GMCtrucker

Registered
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Your truck has a standard series Buick engine -( I think most T 20s would have a Pontic engine.) That's good. It is the same as a 27 Buick car- small series. It's possible it is a 27 as 28 had a fuel pump, not the vacuum tank, but hey, they mixed and matched back then. I have lots of info on these engines if you need any help.
Hello Oldtech.
Yes this is a small Buick standard six engine and doesnt use a fuel pump but a vacuum tank. It Serial Number is 2115225. We are having trouble trimming it and adjusting it in Idle. If you have info in the correct fire order, how to correctly istall the distributor (was removed for paint and not marked, so it was installed incorrectly thought) it would be very appreciated.:shrug:
 

Attachments

GMCtrucker

Registered
ok.. a guy told me theres a tag on the engine..and frame.. I found one on the engine. not the frame
you guys help me out? on the frame somewhere?

cheers
monty
Ours have the engine tag, a plate in the "dash" in the passenger side, and I was told there is a number in the chassis at the forward Right side exactly in the area the front wheel is, however I havent found it even removing the frame paint...
Hope this helps.

---------- Post added at 11:37:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32:02 PM ----------

]These go to the axle... what's your email. Can't figure out how to put up pics
Hello Montyfromalberta.
Thanks for the photos, indeed it is exactly like ours.
I can see yours have the ratch mechanism missing as ours.
If you can share photos of your GMC I will be pleased.

adolfomnz@gmail.com

:wave:

---------- Post added at 11:44:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37:22 PM ----------

Typically, early handbrakes did not go to the axles! Instead, they went to a band that went around a drum mounted on the driveshaft. When you pulled back on the lever, it would tighten the band around the drum, providing friction and stopping the truck.
Indeed, in this truck there is a couple of rings on each after wheel drums, one for normal brake and one for the hand brake. These go inside and expands to make friction inside the brake drum to stop the truck.
 

Oldtech

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/14/2019
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Hi GMC Trucker. The firing order is 153624. Timing procedure is to use the marks on the flywheel under the round cover. Set to #1 TDC, the "0" mark. then remove the cap on the BOTTOM of the distributor mounting tube, and loosen the nut on the bottom of the distributor. This will free the shaft to turn wherever you want. Set it to #1 points just barely opening. The spark control on the steering wheel should be set to maybe 2/3 of the retard position. You could have it at full retard but I like a little leeway. Hope this helps.
 

GMCtrucker

Registered
Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Hi GMC Trucker. The firing order is 153624. Timing procedure is to use the marks on the flywheel under the round cover. Set to #1 TDC, the "0" mark. then remove the cap on the BOTTOM of the distributor mounting tube, and loosen the nut on the bottom of the distributor. This will free the shaft to turn wherever you want. Set it to #1 points just barely opening. The spark control on the steering wheel should be set to maybe 2/3 of the retard position. You could have it at full retard but I like a little leeway. Hope this helps.
Hello Oldtech, thanks for your help.
We were trying the 153624 in the beggining (without been sure, it was left by my passed away uncle graved in a corner of the engine comp).
Then I did grab some info about buick cars using this similar engine, using the firing order 142635. This last one worked a little bit better but now I am confused.I prefers using the one you suggested since your experience have shown it worked in this kind of trucks/engine configuration.
In the other hand our distributor doesnt use the cap and nut system -dont know why- so I will try removing all the assembly and reinstalled it in a different position trying "a teet at a time" instead of turning the shaft until setting the #1 the way you suggest.
Our flywheel just have 2 marks, "17 deg" which we are using for the timming with the #1 TDC and a "1-6" mark which I was tell is used to match the camshaft and the crankshaft gears.
The next weekend I will try again using your information. By the way, Which cylinder is the#1, the one close to the firewall or the one on the front of the engine?
Kind regards
 
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