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Help identifing Kohler engine please.

mjohansson

Registered
Hello all, say I just bought my first Kohler engine for $20. It has a cast iron block. I think it is a Kohler K series. The person I bought it from said he thought it was 7 hp. Anyway, there is NO tag on the engine shroud. I has the points in a separate cover like a Kohler K series and has a cast iron fly wheel. I wanted to lap the valves and get it running. The cylinder still has a cross hatch pattern in it! The oil seals are still new so it must have been rebuilt or not used much. Still I would like to know what model it is so I can look up the specifications on it. Thanks, and God Bless.

is there a Kohler forum or where do I post about koher motors?
 

K-Tron

Registered
If you provide some pictures of the engine and a measurement of the bore and stroke of the engine, it can be identified. Early K141's had a smaller 2-7/8" bore and a 2-1/2" stroke. Later ones had a 2-15/16" bore and a 2-1/2" stroke. The K141's were rated at 6-1/4hp. The K161's were rated at 7hp and like the K141 had a 2-15/16" bore and a 2-1/2" stroke. The 161's had a larger venturi carburetor than the 141's. The K181's had a 2-15/16" bore and a 2-3/4" stroke and were rated at 8hp.

Chris
 

mjohansson

Registered
Ok, I'll try and post some pictures in next day. Some more info on it: It has 7 head bolts, and is an electric start model. It has a fuel pump on the side and when I took it off there is no arm to operate it at all and the arm is not in the oil pan either. The valve tappets are not adjustable by that I mean there is no adjusting nut on the top of the tappets. I got the exhaust valve out but the intake the valve keepers are stuck. The out side shroud where the rope starter is, is not the recoil type and the screen has four screws in it. there are some casting numbers in the oil pan.
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
Valve adjustment is made by grinding the bottom of the valve. Set engine at TDC Compression and measure clearances. Not sure of spec but used to be .008 intake and .010 exhaust - engine cold. The fuel pump operates on crankcase pressure differential -no activating arm. As the piston goes up and down the bore, it creates pressure in the crankcase. That pressure operates the fuel pump. The pump itself does not produce much pressure to the fuel, just volume to feed the carb. The diaphram gets stiff over time, due to age and exposure to alcholized gas. To loosen the valve keepers, use 2 flat blade screw drivers to lift the valve. Using a light plastic hammer, tap the valve head in the center while holding up on the valve spring. The retainer should pop loose from the spring mount, thus freeing the valve.
 

gdstew

Registered
There is a drain hole in the valve spring chamber, it is just big enough to swallow a valve keeper. Plug the hole first!
 

mjohansson

Registered
Woops....didn't know about the hole but it's ok as I got the keepers in and they did not get lost in the abyss. But another problem did arise. When I removed the front aluminum plate as it was SO tight, it parshaly pulled out the crank shaft, I got that back in, and I found out the engine would only turn about half way as it was striking the governor. So I loosened the governor rod and managed to get the crank and cam to rotate all the way around as normally but now how does the governor rod go back in?
 
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