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Hit & Miss Model from Banggood

steam and oil

Registered
Piston o-rings are 22mm x 1mm. Oringsandmore.com

---------- Post added at 08:04:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:57:19 PM ----------

Oops!! 20mm x 1mm. That's what happens when I try to go off memory.
 

krawlr

Sponsor
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
So what would the scale of these be? I'm trying to think of a creative way to hide the ignition system and have it sit on a skid.
 

krawlr

Sponsor
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
That would work but you'll have to rig some kind of contact points for a trigger and an ignition coil from a points type engine.

For the people having ignition failure I noticed MyFordboy replaced one of the batteries with a metal slug so it ran on 2 cells. This was on the earlier blue models, don't know about the updated ones.
 

Tim Venetis

Subscriber
Age
66
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
That would work but you'll have to rig some kind of contact points for a trigger and an ignition coil from a points type engine.

For the people having ignition failure I noticed MyFordboy replaced one of the batteries with a metal slug so it ran on 2 cells. This was on the earlier blue models, don't know about the updated ones.
For anyone interested I found a site that has ignitions for model engines
http://www.model-engine-ignition.com/
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
This may have been discussed before, but I skipped to the last page. has the new tarriffs affected delivery or price of the bangood engines?
 

Tim Venetis

Subscriber
Age
66
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
I finally received my engine and I got it going using lighter fluid On the carburetor adjustment you turn it out less than a quarter turn. It was worth the 20 days wait.
The filler hole in the fuel tank is very small how do people fill the tank. I use the spout on a lighter fluid can but the fluid leaks when filling the tank.
 

Tim Venetis

Subscriber
Age
66
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
The filler hole in the fuel tank is very small how do people fill the tank. I use the spout on a lighter fluid can but the fluid leaks when filling the tank.
I noticed that when I run my model it moves around the bench how do people keep it steady thanks.
 

leviathon

Registered
I received my engine but no joy ! I couldn't get it to run.
:mad::mad:

This is not my first engine. I have over 25 engines in my collection, five built by me and currently work on my Sealion.

My tries went something like this:

I tried the lighter fluid = Nope
I tried re-adjusting the needle = Nope
I tried coleman fuel= Nope
I replaced the Hall effect with the spare one = Nope
I tried two batteries instead of three = Nope

Verified Spark = Spark Ok BUT weak (will get back to this).

So took apart the head and checked the valves for leak on a simple valve leak test setup. Results = they leaked pretty bad. I did not do anything to address this issue (will explain below).

I also took apart the carb. The carb was badly machined (too many burrs and scratches) (at least in mine). I cleaned up the burrs, and re-assembled.

Still nothing.

At this point i contacted my friend down the street who also bought one.

His experience went like most Youtube videos. Put in batteries. Filled tank with lighter fluid. Two spins and started. I had him bring his engine over and did some comparisons with mine.

Something i forgot to mention is that both our engines are identical (ET-1).

I noticed the following:

His valves did not leak anywhere as bad as mine. His ignition spark was much stronger. I did not take apart his carb as to not disturb (mess up !) anything there since his is running fine.

The machining as similar to both engines.

So after this little comparison i have come to the conclusion that there is significant variability as how these engines are machined and put together.

At this point i will be returning my engine back. I do not want to invest anymore time on an engine with issues, since i can very easily return mine and get another one.
The whole basis with this engine is that the price point is so low, that its not worth putting any time into troubleshooting it. Just roll the die and re-order. Most likely my next one will be as good as my friend's.

Which was the whole basis of ordering this engine to begin with.

So my suggestion for all those out there that cant get this engine going as easily as you see in so many Youtube videos.

Packit up and return it. Don't get aggravated and start attempting all kinds of "things" make it work.

As long as you followed all the correct steps, and the engine wont come to life, "send it back !" (to cain a recently used phrase).

Its the amazon of model engines.
:)
 

Tim Venetis

Subscriber
Age
66
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
I received my engine but no joy ! I couldn't get it to run.
:mad::mad:

This is not my first engine. I have over 25 engines in my collection, five built by me and currently work on my Sealion.

My tries went something like this:

I tried the lighter fluid = Nope
I tried re-adjusting the needle = Nope
I tried coleman fuel= Nope
I replaced the Hall effect with the spare one = Nope
I tried two batteries instead of three = Nope

Verified Spark = Spark Ok BUT weak (will get back to this).

So took apart the head and checked the valves for leak on a simple valve leak test setup. Results = they leaked pretty bad. I did not do anything to address this issue (will explain below).

I also took apart the carb. The carb was badly machined (too many burrs and scratches) (at least in mine). I cleaned up the burrs, and re-assembled.

Still nothing.

At this point i contacted my friend down the street who also bought one.

His experience went like most Youtube videos. Put in batteries. Filled tank with lighter fluid. Two spins and started. I had him bring his engine over and did some comparisons with mine.

Something i forgot to mention is that both our engines are identical (ET-1).

I noticed the following:

His valves did not leak anywhere as bad as mine. His ignition spark was much stronger. I did not take apart his carb as to not disturb (mess up !) anything there since his is running fine.

The machining as similar to both engines.

So after this little comparison i have come to the conclusion that there is significant variability as how these engines are machined and put together.

At this point i will be returning my engine back. I do not want to invest anymore time on an engine with issues, since i can very easily return mine and get another one.
The whole basis with this engine is that the price point is so low, that its not worth putting any time into troubleshooting it. Just roll the die and re-order. Most likely my next one will be as good as my friend's.

Which was the whole basis of ordering this engine to begin with.

So my suggestion for all those out there that cant get this engine going as easily as you see in so many Youtube videos.

Packit up and return it. Don't get aggravated and start attempting all kinds of "things" make it work.

As long as you followed all the correct steps, and the engine wont come to life, "send it back !" (to cain a recently used phrase).

Its the amazon of model engines.
:)
I would try putting a little oil in the cylinder. Probably if you get it going things might seal.
 

leviathon

Registered
I would try putting a little oil in the cylinder. Probably if you get it going things might seal.
Been there...done that.

Mystery Oil, Synthetic, etc....

---------- Post added at 01:50:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:48:17 PM ----------

I would try putting a little oil in the cylinder. Probably if you get it going things might seal.
Oh, and by the way, no oil would fix leaky vavles, that's just bad machining, lapping, etc.;)

---------- Post added at 01:51:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:50:39 PM ----------

Oh, and by the way, no oil would fix leaky vavles, that's just bad machining, lapping, etc.;)
 

Tim Venetis

Subscriber
Age
66
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
Been there...done that.

Mystery Oil, Synthetic, etc....

---------- Post added at 01:50:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:48:17 PM ----------



Oh, and by the way, no oil would fix leaky vavles, that's just bad machining, lapping, etc.;)

---------- Post added at 01:51:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:50:39 PM ----------

Oh, and by the way, no oil would fix leaky vavles, that's just bad machining, lapping, etc.;)
For the amount of time to send it back and get another engine why not try lapping the valves in.
 

Junkologist

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/28/2019
I have bought three of these engines so far, two for myself and one for a friend. The third one had a leaky intake valve. I pulled the head and lapped the valve in with polishing compound. Problem solved and the engine runs just as good as the other two now.
 

Gil Garceau

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
01/01/2019
Good work, Mike!

---------- Post added at 11:29:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21:00 PM ----------

Leviathon, you say you replaced the hall sensor. This makes me think you have one of the blue engines with the gold ignition box. Is that right? If so, you will be much better off with the newer silver engine which has a much better ignition start to finish.

I usually check the timing and set it to top dead center or just a hair before it. Also, the newer ones have 2 o-rings close together. If there is no oil between then them it will not run right. They seal well enough that oil will not get between them. You can remove one and have a better running engine.
 

leviathon

Registered
Good work, Mike!

---------- Post added at 11:29:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21:00 PM ----------

Leviathon, you say you replaced the hall sensor. This makes me think you have one of the blue engines with the gold ignition box. Is that right? If so, you will be much better off with the newer silver engine which has a much better ignition start to finish.

I usually check the timing and set it to top dead center or just a hair before it. Also, the newer ones have 2 o-rings close together. If there is no oil between then them it will not run right. They seal well enough that oil will not get between them. You can remove one and have a better running engine.
I have one of the silver engines, but yes, the ignition box is gold. I only have a single o ring. so does my friends.

I have one question. i have seen several videos with different wheel rotations. For example my friends and my instructions say counter clockwise from the governor side. However i have seen many videos with rotation being counter clockwise from the governors side.

---------- Post added at 06:22:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18:10 AM ----------

For the amount of time to send it back and get another engine why not try lapping the valves in.
It took 4 days for the engine to arrive from date of order.

---------- Post added at 06:24:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22:01 AM ----------

I meant clockwise for most others.
 

Tim Venetis

Subscriber
Age
66
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
I have one of the silver engines, but yes, the ignition box is gold. I only have a single o ring. so does my friends.

I have one question. i have seen several videos with different wheel rotations. For example my friends and my instructions say counter clockwise from the governor side. However i have seen many videos with rotation being counter clockwise from the governors side.

---------- Post added at 06:22:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18:10 AM ----------



It took 4 days for the engine to arrive from date of order.

---------- Post added at 06:24:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22:01 AM ----------

I meant clockwise for most others.
From the governor side with the carburetor on the left side you turn the flywheel clockwise to start the engine.
 
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