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I.D. My Briggs engine please

tdagner

Registered
Hey guys,

I know this isnt a rare BS engine but I was hoping yall could help I.D. it for me. I cannot find a stamping on it anywhere and it seems that sometime in its life my grandpa put new stickers on it when he painted it.

The ignition is shot and I would like to upgrade to Electronic ignition. Just trying to find out what electronic ignition kit i need to order to make this thing run again.

Thanks for the help
 

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Pat Barrett

Subscriber
Age
71
Last Subscription Date
01/02/2020
Model type and S.N should be on the starter housing. It appears you have a basic model 130202, 5 H P. The electronic coil off any later 5 hp will bolt right up. Just cut the wire from the points coming to the existing coil and leave points and all in tact.
 

Downtoascience

Registered
Hey guys,

I know this isnt a rare BS engine but I was hoping yall could help I.D. it for me. I cannot find a stamping on it anywhere and it seems that sometime in its life my grandpa put new stickers on it when he painted it.

The ignition is shot and I would like to upgrade to Electronic ignition. Just trying to find out what electronic ignition kit i need to order to make this thing run again.

Thanks for the help
just gonna tell you that it is not a rare engine at all. they’re everywhere. But that doesn’t mean they’re not good, some of the most reliable engines out there.
 

Ogrebeast64

Registered
Looks like a 130xxx series to me, most likely a 5 hp engine. You can get them off eBay for anywhere from $14 to $30.
 

K-Tron

Registered
If the numbers cannot be found, or do not happen to match the block, pull the cylinder head, measure the bore/stroke, and see if a magnet sticks to the cylinder. If it is an I/C engine with a cast iron sleeve it is at least possible to rebuild it. Parts should be cheap and plentiful for that engine as they made millions of them.

Chris
 

gdstew

Registered
The idea that an I/C cast iron sleeve engine is rebuildable is questionable. Granted, the bore would be better than a regular aluminum bore engine, but any engine with a worn bore would also have a worn crankshaft. I have seen far too many rebuilds that failed because the crank journal was never measured. Most of the time, you didn't even need a micrometer to see how bad they are. Tillers are among the worst for wear due to all the dirt they run in.
 

K-Tron

Registered
I agree 100% with you on the correlation between a worn cylinder and a worn crankpin. It is one of the many reasons that I become leary of buying a "rebuilt" engine from anyone. Thankfully Briggs & Stratton made finding part numbers extremely easy, and typically ebay has everything briggs & stratton that you are looking for. Last year I put a new crankshaft in my 5hp I/C Quantum engine after I accidentally hit a root with the mower. From memory the crankshaft was just shy of $40 shipped to my door. Of course I put more time into honing, bead blasting, ultrasonically cleaning and rebuilding the engine than it was worth, but that is just the way I am. Now if the tiller engine in question happens to be a kool-bore engine with a rough cylinder and a worn crankpin, I would say that the engine is junk, and start looking for another.

Chris
 
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