I need some Chevy help again. My trailer hauler is broke

[Avery22x36]

After my last epic fail with the computer on the 4.3 I got a newer pickup until I figure it out, 2006 Chevy with 6.0. All was fine until Wed when I brought a trailer home, I left it idling until I unhooked and it died while I was back there. Odd, never happened before, worse yet, it will not start, will crank and everything else seems to work but no starting? Went through the fuses and grounds and nothing, went in, next morning it fired up fine and I drove it all Thursday. Friday morning I see a friend so I pull into his driveway and roll down the window, it dies and its the same thing. Have someone come over to load up and bring it home. Checked the fuel pressure and it was fine, no spark and the noid light doesn't fire. I had an extra Crank position sensor so I changed that. Nothing. I did find a mouse next under the under hod fuse box and a couple wires they had chewed on, fixed them but still nothing. Code reader only shows one code for the exhaust sensor. I pulled the intake hose off and throttle pos works fine as the butterfly moves. So why isn't my ignition working or my injectors popping? I have went through all the connections and grounds I can find, might pull the cam sensor next? Thanks, I am lost.

 

[DCAmp]

Did you try a different key? May be the chip or the chip reader.

 

[DustyBar]

Very well could be a key. Father-in-laws key left him stranded a few times but mother-in-law never had that problem. It took us a few years to discover what was going on.

 

[Avery22x36]

I had two factory keys, neither did any different and don't appear to have a chip in them, this was a bare bones rubber floor matted work truck so not many frills. Thanks for the idea though

 

[Ken Majeski]

Plug in a Code reader and see what codes you have. Sounds like possibly a Crank Position sensor. Don't you Just Love this New Computerised JUNK

 

[Avery22x36]

I switched the crank pos with one in another engine that was known to be good so I don't think its that? Thanks

 

[C-Wade7]

There is a ground wire on back of the motor behind the intake that often gets chewed and causes no start concerns

 

[Weezer]

When you turn the key to run (not crank), is the "check engine" light lit?
If not, you don't have power or ground for the ecm.
Jim

 

[J.B. Castagnos]

Could be a relay, I believe it's the "run-crank" relay that powers part of the ECM, swap it with another that's not critical to running. I've had a few with the mentioned ground behing the head loose. If not, have it scanned by someone that knows what he's looking at, don't start throwing parts at it.

 

[Ramey]

Was the mouse nest in the fuse box? They may have shorted out the fuse box the fuse box does not like moisture. I agree with Jim on the check engine light / relay.

 

[C-Wade7]

As mentioned the under hood fuse block(ubec) is bad about getting mice under the cover and the mouse piss causes all kinds of issues or the chew wires right under it.

 

[Walter Neumann jr]

buy a dodge

 

[Avery22x36]

I ran a second ground from the head just incase the one on the back wasn't good although I couldn't find anything wrong with it. The check engine light is always on and has thrown a P0030 code as long as I have had it and the last owner said it did also for a year or two. I am going to go switch relays around, I have really looked hard for more wire damage and not found any. I am just about down to the driving the 74 if this keeps up!

Neumann, if you need any parts for your Dodge, I got a box someplace full of broken knobs, door handles and other cab parts.

---------- Post added at 08:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 AM ----------

Should all three of the bolts-studs, along the top edge of the under hood fuse box be hot when the key is on? I got two of them hot and the one that is not does not make continuity as a ground?

---------- Post added at 09:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 AM ----------

Did Chevy still use fuseable links in 2006? That and the one lug in the fuse box that is dead are my big suspects other than the security system.

 

[J.B. Castagnos]

Security isn't supposed to kill a running engine, just prevent starting. At one time you could start a GM vehicle, disable security, start with a regular key as long as you didn't clear codes. This was to allow a defective security system to continue operating until repaired, this may have changed on the newer vehicles, I haven't tried it. The stud with no power is probably for trailer connector, you have to install a fuse to make it hot, won't cause a no start. If you have a security problem you should see a ligt flashing on the dash.

 

[Avery22x36]

Its got the trailer package and the light connector plug back there unless this was for the manual brake activator that I tied on in a different place? The only other odd thing is the blue connector to the computer up by the power steering pump had some moisture in it. I blew it out lightly and sprayed with points cleaner and is drying under a fan now.

 

[J.B. Castagnos]

Looked it up, it's the ignition 1 relay I was thinking about, supplies power to injector 1&2 fuses, ecm1 fuse, and others.
If the injector fuses have power the relay is OK, test it while cranking to be sure it's OK with a load on it. Probe the fuse with a test light while the engine is cranked.

 

[Ronald E. McClellan]

I have a Dodge van and have has problems two times. The engine would die and not start for an hour or two , then it would run fine , until the next time. The first time it was the fuel pump. I had it towed to my mechanic and he found it. The second time it would die then run fine. It was the spark coil. A friend told me to test it with an ohm meter. The high voltage lead should test about 8000 ohms mine tested at 15000. A new coil fixed it. Remove all of the leads (3) to test it. Ron

 

[J.B. Castagnos]

Thanks Ron but this engine has coil on plugs, 8 coils, don't think it would be his problem.

 

[Ronald E. McClellan]

I just remembered something else that happened. I had trouble starting the engine. After testing everything that could be tested and finding nothing wrong there was only one thing left , the ECM. That was it! All electronics will go bad due to the electrolytic capacitors. They have a liquid in them and in time will dry out and not work. When I got the rebuilt ECM I had to look at it and what they did was to replace 3 electrolytic caps. Ron

 

[Avery22x36]

OK, I think I found the problem, the slight amount of moisture in the plug in on the computer on the blue connector. I dried it, warmed it, fanned it and sprayed contact cleaner on it and let it set, late last night it fired up and ran fine, I left it plugged in all night and now it won't so I assume its moister there? One pin had some blue corriosion on it. I am drying it out again now, will check it again tonight, thanks!