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IH Cub Lo boy. The saga continues

VicF

Subscriber
So I’ve posted about this before but I’ll start from the beginning. This tractor at first wouldn’t start at all after running fine for a while. So I rebuilt the carb. Didn’t fix it. Next I replaced the plugs and coil. It starts but back to not starting again. Next I replaced the point and condenser. Didn’t fix it. I’ve got it to start but it runs rough and sounds like its misfiring. Ill upload a video. It’s always smoked which leads me to believe the piston rings are shot. https://youtu.be/l-c2HN0bp8g
 

Jon Nessel

Subscriber
Does it run like that if/when you start it when its warm, or does it exhibit the same symptoms when its stone cold too?
 

VicF

Subscriber
Before I replaced the point and condenser it would only start when its cold. It exhibits the same symptoms cold or hot.
 

Tracy T

Subscriber
distributor or magneto? we had a older model with a mag doing the same thing, mag was going bad. upgraded to a distributor problem solved. A coil starting to fail will do the same thing. what color is the spark at the plug? anything other than a bluish purple spark and something is not right in the ignition system. compression readings? remember there are three things every engine needs to run.

#1 fuel/air
#2 ignition
#3 compresssion

find out which one is suffering and you will be on the right track. double check your firing order anyway, things happen! and it only takes a minute to rule that out. fuel quality/flow? water/ dirt/ restricted flow?
 

Jon Nessel

Subscriber
Have you considered the condition of the fuel in the tank? I cant tell you how many times I've found that water got in and mixed with the gas and gave me similar symptoms. I've had this on 2 and 4 cylinders. The 2's end up running on 1(barely) and the 4 will drop 1 or more. Worth checking to eliminate a variable.
 

VicF

Subscriber
The tank is in really good condition and its always been kept inside so probably not. Thanks tho
 

Mike Hole

Subscriber
Hi,
From your video it sounds to me like it has at least one dead cylinder.

Have you tried pulling the plug wires one at a time with it running to see if you can locate the dead cylinder ?

It's easier to pull them off the dist cap than the plugs.

When you pull the wire on a good cylinder RPM will change. If you have the bad one it will not. Check them all.
If you find two that make no change, switch them and see what happens.
If you don't want to do it that way a compression test may be in order. Maybe you have a stuck or burned valve.

But I'd definitely do the plug wire test first.

Mike
 

Tim B

Subscriber
I agree with Mike. Also one of those cheap laser thermometers work great for checking for a cold plug/dead cylinder. If you get a cold plug, than inspect it for spark
 

VicF

Subscriber
A little update. I've re timed the distributor and I now have slight ignition. It won't run but it has slight ignition. The only part I haven't replaced is the voltage regulator but i doubt that's the issue. I'm starting to doubt the parts quality. I bought them from Steiner tractor parts. Has anyone here converted theirs to electronic points? How hard is it?
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
I think folks here have helped me with similar issues.Alot of it is you need to step back and rethink.
Throwing parts at it is not helping,as it could alter symptoms to the negitive!
intake gasket leaking at head, valve not opening?
Practical joker playing with the wires on the cap while you weren't looking?
 

Tracy T

Subscriber
A little update. I've re timed the distributor and I now have slight ignition. It won't run but it has slight ignition. I'm starting to doubt the parts quality.
Not sure I follow, slight ignition??? engine trys to start but wont? ignition spark weak? as for the quality of parts that can be a problem. your local NAPA may have them on the shelf, they did for my 1973 IHC engine and they used the same parts on many different engines. Just had a thought though, can you post a close up picture of the distributor?
 
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