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IHC 1-1/2 Hp M badly weathered ID plate

Dwayne Fuller

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Well, you are in luck. Most of the parts you will need are being reproduced. Click the sponsors link at the top of the page. Several there have the parts. Start oiling everything now and let it soak while you are learning about it. Once you start on the project post it over on the main engine forum, you can post photos there also. Search that forum for M threads and you will find good info.

Welcome to the stak. Be warned that working on these engines is addictive. You can't stop after getting one running, you will have to have another. Have fun!

Engine show at Temple Texas Oct. 7th
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
A few quick facts: Gasoline only engine. Used a WICO EK mag for ignition, which dates the engine later than 1923 If the S/N is readable, you can date it exactly. Many parts still available, check with H&M enterprises IHC M parts list for starters. He has a parts diagram on the page.

Was the engine turned on end as pictured when you found it? If it was, then severe rust inside the engine may be a real deal breaker. If the engine was on its base, as if being used, then you have a chance at restoration. A picture of the top and magneto side of the engine will help, as well as a more distant one of the head, so we can tell you more, and identify missing items for you.

I wrote an article for The Gas Engine Magazine Sept./Oct. 1984, about the restoration of 2 IHC M engines (1927 and '28). You can either get a back issue from GEM or view it on line. The article was named 'A tale of 2 engines. I included pictures which may help you identify parts. have a look at H&M Enterprises IHC M parts list too - he has a diagram on the page. H&M is a sponsor here on the Stak - look on the sponsors page for his site.
 

rustyapache

Registered
Thanks guys! The serial number plate is totally unreadable. If I get the piston freed up, I will have a big order for H&M enterprises!


My main issue was identifying the correct magneto since they are pricey.
I already have the wrong manual that applies to a low tension machine.
It's only been up ended to fill the cylinder with oil.
The cam cover is cracked. The exhaust push rod is bent and cracking at the threads. The fuel pump, governor linkages, magneto and it's lever, spark plug, choke plate, oiler, fuel tank cap, fuel lines are all missing altogether. Not much left of the fuel tank. I'm sure that there are other missing items as well.
I'll try to get some better photographs later.
 

rustyapache

Registered
I wrote an article for The Gas Engine Magazine Sept./Oct. 1984, about the restoration of 2 IHC M engines (1927 and '28). You can either get a back issue from GEM or view it on line. The article was named 'A tale of 2 engines. I included pictures which may help you identify parts. have a look at H&M Enterprises IHC M parts list too - he has a diagram on the page. H&M is a sponsor here on the Stak - look on the sponsors page for his site.


Great article. Good to know I'm not the only one with a destructive childhood. Also good to know it is probably salvageable.
 

OldStover

Registered
Last Subscription Date
10/03/2016
one great thing about these engines is the cylinder is replaceable so if the piston and cylinder are in real bad shape, so dont fret the engine can still be saved!
and just some words of encouragement, i have brought worse back to life (of that same engine), you can do it! :salute:
 

rustyapache

Registered
YES! Thanks.
I watched some his bailing wire engine rebuild series direct from the east coast of Arkansas!
Great informative stuff!
 

rustyapache

Registered
and just some words of encouragement, i have brought worse back to life (of that same engine), you can do it! :salute:
I may even go ahead and braze up the crack in the cam cover. One of the arms that run off the cam was brazed either decades ago by dad, or a half century ago by my great grandfather.
 

OldStover

Registered
Last Subscription Date
10/03/2016
a little braze would be a fine fix. it will help with the crankcase pressure, helping oiler and breather work properly if you do, keep dust out, and I would go forward and never look back on that engine if it was my great grandfathers, doing whatever it took to have it back running again, in fact i would probably trade my favorite or most expensive engine i currently own (which is nothing to sneeze at) to have one that was my grandfathers or great grandfathers
 

rustyapache

Registered
Thanks for the encouragement. I feel exactly the way you do. My great great grandfathers civil war Colt Navy has the wrong barrel and homemade hand grips that will never be replaced in my lifetime.
I already know that by the time my father finally sees the M run again I will have invested far more money into it than it's market value. As long as I live and breathe it will NEVER be sold, so market value is irrelevant!
If I can find used replacement parts inexpensively enough I can always hang the broken ones on the wall in my barn. For the time being the goal is to replace the missing components. I probably will not even paint it. It will just get a good electrolytic cleaning an annual coating of my homemade waxoyl.
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
Definitely looks restorable. The WICO EK is readily available. I helped another Staker find one at the Jacktown show, that was hot (needs a lead out tower), for $150 - cheap in my book. Hose all moving parts with a good solvent like Kroil or Seafoam, and let it set a week or so, soaking daily. Take your time removing parts - the engine did not get stuck in a day, and it won't come apart that fast either! Read the article I wrote for the GEM - the engines I restored certainly were close to the one you have. Take lots of pictures as you work, and write what you did. Submit it to the GEM, and it will get published! Been there did that many times:D
 

rustyapache

Registered
I'm probably going to bite the bullet and get one from hitandmiss enterprises so It is more likely to last for the next 70 years. You are correct about time and rust. What's a week, or a month in the grand scheme of things? A motorcycle painter I used to work with always told impatient bikers ....do you want it right, or right now? When my hobby gets frustrating I walk away, otherwise things get broke, especially the bank account! I have learned that I don't really own my resurrected relics. I'm just their temporary caretaker for as long as I ride this planet!
 

rustyapache

Registered
An update on my great grandfather's 1-1/2 hp M, and a few more questions.

I removed the nameplate and was able to make out the remaining numbers with a jewelers loupe. It's a 1931.

I have been able to dismantle it without damage and it has much neglect, abuse and rust but not much wear. I spent a lot of time watching old shopdog Sam, who I can really relate to.

The intake valve was nearly rusted in two and the chamber was filled with rust and something metallic.

I was unable to remove the governor side gib key using several attempts and different methods involving welding and pullers. All of the attempts to remove the gib key, unseized the governor flyweights, obviating the need to remove the flywheel. Although cleaning and painting would be more thorough. There were also ancient unsuccessful attempts to remove the drive pulley, and there is evidence that they drilled into the gib key for some reason. Maybe it became loose and they tried to stake it because they were unable to remove the pulley and drive it home properly. Has anyone seen that sort of butchery?


I also discovered that someone installed the piston on to the rod upside down, so I need to remove the wrist pin to correct it. Amazingly it isn't burned up or sloppy.
There is just a nut and a stud securing the wrist pin not a bolt, is that wrong too?
 
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