Ingersoll Rand Type 30 3&13/4 x 2 3/4 - what year? model?

terra mostro

New member
Hello Forum Friends,

I picked this compressor last week. am hoping somone can tell me what model this is and maybe what year?

The tank is stamped 1929, the Wagner 2 hp motor may be from something else as well.

Questions:

1. takes 10 minutes to getto 75 lbs, 20 minutes to get to 90 psi. There is blow by in the crank case, but dip stik will say in if inserted firmly. Do I need a ring job?

2. are the valves in this called disk valves - any sources for parts for these valves? One of the spring washers was broken - I bent the remaining piece into a wafer washer. Any known source for rings and valve parts?

3. Motor is running on 110 - can run on 220. If i hook it up to 220v will the rpm increase? torque? or just lower the amps? any other benefits to 220v?

4.

Thanks for any input, suggestions, and opinions.

Sincerely,
Blaine
 

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K-Tron

Active member
Welcome to smokstak. Although I am not an Ingersoll Rand expert, I do not think your compressor is from 1929. Most if not all of the horizontal receivers that I have seen from that time period were riveted tanks. I cannot see the end of the tank in the pictures you have posted, but early tanks had the top motor plate riveted to the tank bracket stands, not welded. Wagner certainly made repulsion type motors in the 1920s, but they did not look like that. That motor looks more like 1940s or 50s vintage. If the motor is 2 horsepower, the compressor should be belted in such a way that the unit produces approximately 8cfm at 100psi. Over speeding a non-functioning compressor will not help your case. Most compressors have a maximum and minimum rpm range. It sounds to me like your compressor is working at the 2cfm range based on the time allotments you have stated. I suspect the reed valves are chipped or broken. A good compressor shop should be able to set you up with some new valves. It is hard to tell if your compressor needs a ring job without taking it apart or running the compressor for quite some time after washing the tank out. If you catch the condensation with a pan and let it sit for a few minutes you will be able to tell immediately if the compressor is passing oil. Oil and water obviously do not mix. Oil ridden condensate is usually foamy and white depending on the oil used.

Chris
 

John Newman Jr.

Subscriber
If your motor states that it can run on 110 or 220 VAC, then it will require reconnecting the leads inside the connection box to accept the higher voltage. Just plugging a 110 wired motor into a 220 outlet will definitely make it run faster - For a little while until the magic smoke gets let out. It should run at tag stated RPM at either voltage if wired correctly.
For the record, most everybody has 120 / 240 volts at their outlets these days.
 

dalmatiangirl61

Subscriber
I-R can probably tell year of mfr on compressor by S#, that style of compressor has been produced for many many years. I'm kind of surprised you are not tripping breaker running on 110v. I-R can also advise on min/max rpm, I'm going to WAG on 600, but you need to find out for sure, and figure out what speed you are currently running. My guess would be that it needs valve work, but you will have to investigate further. And if tank is stamped 1929, you NEED to hydrotest it.
 

terra mostro

New member
Thanks so much for the info so far folks - much appreciated. I am fine with running this on 110 and ok with it taking a while to build up. I do want to get it in top shape though, so i can keep it for a long time. Its very quiet, and with 110v its easy to run on my generator if needed.

I hope others can chime in with any other input or info!!

thanks again
Blaine
 
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