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International LA won't run

petrj6

Registered
I am new here and hope this is in the right place, I recently acquired a international la engine and really want to hear this thing run. I did have it running one time when I first got it home but I had no water in it and it was running from an open fuel can so I quickly shut it down now I cant seem to get anything. every once in awhile it will pop but it will not run, I hooked up a belt to one of my gt's and turned it over that way for awhile and nothing, even if a spray card cleaner rite in the cylinder then turn it over it will only pop a little, I am thinking that there may be something holding a valve open as the comp seems a little less than when I first brought it home but it is hard to tell. Thought's or advice would be greatly appreciated. Pete
 

Bob Krummel

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
02/04/2019
Re: international la wont run

Maybe just a piece of carbon under one of the valves. See if you get a hold of the valve stem and rotate the valve while pulling it closed and break up the carbon piece allowing the valve to seat. Do this before you take the head off. You might get lucky.
 

Ironsides

Registered
Re: international la wont run

Pete,you may have flooded her---they are very touchy about too much fuel in the cylinder.I suggest you squirt engine oil into the cylinder,(about 3 squirts) as she flooded she tends to "wash" the cylinder wall clean you then have no compression,(stand her up on her tail and let the oil run down around the piston).Good luck,keep cranking,Norm
 

Kris Golden

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Re: international la wont run

Hate to even bring it up but I'm notorious for doing this myself.... :O
When it was belted up are you sure it was turning the correct direction? :bonk:
 

Tom Fleming

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Last Subscription Date
04/13/2017
A couple of quick things. How is the compression? That will tell you a lot about the condition of the valves. I have 4 of these now, and 3 of them required a valve touch up, which by my definition is to dress the seats lightly and dress the valve faces lightly.

Next, do you have good spark? if not, first order of business is to clean up the points.

Lastly, get a good spark plug with copper core wire. do NOT use composite/graphite core wires in these.

Check those things out first.

Welcome to the forum!
 

petrj6

Registered
I did have it going in the rite direction but don't blame you for asking, I have spent 20 min looking for a pencil that was behind my ear!! I do have very good spark, that was the first thing I did was to clean the points and check the plug, the plug by the way looks almost brand new. I am leaning towards something stuck in the valves, it does seem to have a little less comp than when I first got it, and when I had it running it quit just like you shut of a switch, I didn't think much of it at the time because I wanted it off so I could put water in it. I ordered a new set of gaskets and a spring for the crank handle, that should be in this week sometime. for now I have shelved it, too many other things that need my attention. thanks guys for the advice, anyone have any tips about taking the head off? what should I be aware of? do or don't do? any words of advice? Pete
 

ShaneZahn

Registered
Last Subscription Date
12/21/2015
Whereas you recently acquired this engine, you have no history of the former owners care & conditions of the engine. It may have been disassembled for cleaning & not assembled correctly.
Assuming the timing, spark, valve gap , & the visible & obvious is set correctly.
It may be that the throttle valve shaft was not reassemble / installed correctly.
This might be preventing the throttle valve from opening. It would also cause the mixer / choke chamber to flood.
If you read the general reassembling instruction it might explain what I am trying to point out. Items 6 & 7 are what I'd be concerned with.
http://www.oldengine.org/docs/IHC_LA_OM.pdf
Somehow. it is possible to have no throttle & very little gas / air mixture going to the cylinder. Hopefully others will add to this possibility. Thanks Shane
 

Tom Fleming

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Last Subscription Date
04/13/2017
absolutely correct on the throttle position. when not running, the throttle plate should be wide open. The governor closes the throttle to adjust the speed. If you have the head off, be absolutely sure you have the throttle wide open when you reassemble, otherwise, it will not run.

There are only 2 possible positions for the throttle plate when reassembling: wide open, or completely shut. Not much wiggle room there. You will either get it right, or get it wrong.....50/50 chance. :brows:
 

73eldo

Registered
On mine the throttle was sticking shut. You can kinda see if its sticky by taking that round cover off the back of the crank case and reaching in to operate the rod with your fingers. You have to find the correct rotation of the crank to make room for your hand. The control rod runs below the cylinder bore out to the head. It then has a square coupling that links it to the actual butterfly in the head. On mine pushing on the rod / crank made it move a bit and made it stick less. Ended up taking the head off eventually which was good because of the amount of crud in the water passages. It would have likely froze on me the first winter.

I found these engines to be especially sensitive to fuel tank location and the quality of the check valve. Also the mixer body seems to be a fairly soft material so the fuel inlet threads often seem to be damaged.

I bought mine from a friend and we had it running before we put it in my truck. The day I pulled it out I had it running. Soon after that I started 'fixing' things. It has not run as good as it did then for any extended periods since. There were / are so many things wrong I can't believe it ran at all. Water in and crap in fuel, no check valve in the pickup, leaky fuel inlet at mixer, stuck throttle, really bad bearings in the mag, the list goes on but it did run till I started fixing things. Granted I thought it sounded like a hit and miss but it did run.
 

petrj6

Registered
IT LIVES!!!! what a sound these things make!!! I removed the head and cleaned all the valves, gave everything a good washing and cleaning. the throttle was stuck closed so I freed that up. lapped the valves and put it back together. maybe the third pull and off it went. thanks guys for the advise and help. I now need to fix the water leak, the stripped out threads (idiot me) and get it hot to change the oil one more time so I can shelve it for the winter. Pete
 

petrj6

Registered
I think I have the fuel line all figured out the only thing I need rite now is a new freeze plug, any one here know where I can get a big plug for this? I checked all the locale stores and they all have nothing.
Pete
 

Francis

Registered
The part number of the "freeze plug" is Dorman 550-033. The diameter is 2.75 inches. I hope this helps you.

Francis
 

ChrisinEstes

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Last Subscription Date
06/19/2014
Speaking on LAs... mine ran away when I started it after the rebuild... turns out part of the throttle linkage was stuck inside the engine. Somebody here knew what the problem was and got me on the right track.

It's good to have the Dorman part number for the freeze plug. I couldn't find one locally because none of the parts stores had them listed by diameter... I finally found one at a Cummins dealer/repair shop.

Chris
 

Tom G

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
I think I have the fuel line all figured out the only thing I need rite now is a new freeze plug, any one here know where I can get a big plug for this? I checked all the locale stores and they all have nothing.
Pete

Ed Deis at Hit & Miss carries them. He is a board sponsor, and I got mine from him, along with a lot of other parts.
 
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