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Kohler 15R063 Marine Generator Will Not Crank

reedb

Registered
Kohler Generator: 15R063
Spec: 6640C
S/N: 289259
32V starting
Control: B/268198

The unit will not crank and is blowing the 15A glass fuse in the control. Unfortunately the wiring diagram is no longer legible. Calling the local distributor brought no joy (he wasn't able to find the diagram). The unit has a Roosa injector pump with two wire connections. I assume one is the fuel cutoff. I have no idea what the other would be. I suspect the engine might be a Waukesha Diesel Model 180DLC, but I haven't been able to find the number plate yet. If anyone might have a wiring diagram for this control that would be a huge help. Also any general knowledge about how the remote start switches were wired would be great (I suspect hackery in this area).
Thanks, -Reed
 

nblack

Registered
1. check the FAQ on this section, post #2. very helpful.
2. Is the engine loose? i.e. can you turn it over with a ratchet, or bar.
3. How long has it been sitting? months, years, decades...
4.depending on the answer to the previous question, the approach to any movement of the crank by hand or electricity changes.
5. Wookies are a FORMIDABLE power source, and should be revered as such. Their design speaks volumes with regard to the engineers perception of longevity, serviceability,and overall value.
6. Roosa-master pumps have been used in countless diesels, and many updates are available for them as well.
7. Wookies normally have their id badge on the LH side right below the valve cover, riveted to the block. (all that I have seen) (others may correct with more experience).
8. report back, and PLEASE continue to do so as your unit undergoes repair. It helps many people, not just you.
9. Last, but not least, Welcome to the 'Stak!.,and best of luck!
 
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LWB250

Registered
This is probably an exciter cranked unit. If it is (no external Bendix style starter like you would have on an automotive engine) then having strong batteries, heavy cables and clean connections is absolutely critical.

Slapping a Group 24 battery on this unit will result in nothing. Exciter cranked units use the generator exciter windings to crank the engine over, and as a result require a massive amount of current to turn the unit over.

Dan
 

Roamer

Registered
Hey my friend I think this is your lucky day. I have the same unit as you. If you have a good knowledge of electric schematics, I think I have what you need. Let me search and see if I can locate the schematics for this unit. First as others have asked, does it rotate at all when attempting to crank it over? If the wiring to the batteries is in good condition along with connections clean and tight, the reset button is depressed, the start relay is probably gone bad. A quick test may help. When attempting to crank, does the reset button pop out? If it does, use caution here, hold in the reset and attempt to crank it over, for only a second or two. If it does the you have isolated the problem to the overload switch or starting relay or possibly a bad cutout switch i.e. LOP, high temp. If no response the you'll have some tracking to do to find out where in the starting circuit the problem lies.
 

LWB250

Registered
Call one of the distributors I mentioned in the FAQ section and tell them you need a drawing number 268202. Be sure to ask for the service department, NOT parts department.

Either one of them will have a copy of this drawing. Our you can call Bay City Electric in San Diego since they're a little closer. They'll have it, too.

Dan
 

reedb

Registered
First of all thanks to those who replied. I removed the screen and was able to roll the generator by hand. Thus emboldened, I jumped around the start solenoid and was able to get the generator to crank. This is an exciter cranked unit, no starter. I've attached my partial wiring diagram for the control. I had no luck with the local dealer when asking for drawing number 268202. Claimed that his documents didn't go back that far. If anyone can help fill in the terra-incognito in my partial diagram I can probably get this thing going again. Many thanks in advance. -Reed
 

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reedb

Registered
We're still working on the 15R063. If you have a diagram which is better than the one I posted, I would love to see it. Thanks, -Reed
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
One thing you will want to do before you put a load on the set is to replace the selenium rectifier shown on the diagram with a silicon rectifier. This rectifier is in series with the auxiliary field winding and the compounding transformer. As AC load is increased, DC auxiliary field current is increased proportionally. This keeps the output voltage ~constant across the load range.

The selenium rectifiers fail merely with age. In this circuit, when it fails open circuit, a very high voltage is developed across the transformer, destroying it.

Keith
 

reedb

Registered
Thanks for the tip. I have the load disconnected now. I was thinking of replacing the selenium bridge rectifier, but I wasn't sure what the voltage/current rating of the silicon bridge rectifier should be. I'm still really casting about for a better wiring diagram than the one I posted. Even if it's not from the same year, I would like to look at a wiring diagram that gives me the general idea of how these older controllers are wired. I still have a short in the controller somewhere I need to track down. For now we're trying to start the "wookie" to see what it's condition is. Many thanks! -Reed
 

Kevin K

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/12/2019
According to the Kohler Field data chart I attached, a 15Kw single phase generator would have an auxiliary field resistance of about 13 ohms and a auxiliary field voltage about 40 volts at full load. This would give a current of about 3 amps. So a 200 volt bridge rated at 10 amps would be a good replacement. I just use a 1,000 volt 50 amp bridge, as they don't cost much more from Digi-Key or Mouser Electronics. The shipping will cost more than the part. I miss Radio Shack when I need a quick part. On the other hand, you can save shipping by purchasing from Ali Express, but you need to wait a few weeks.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/comchip-technology/KBPC5010-G/641-1861-ND/2214448

If you have Amazon Prime with free shipping that may be the best way to go as Digi-Key and Mouser like to add about $10 for shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-KBPC50...teway&sprefix=bridge+rectifier,aps,200&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/10pcs-Single...JHGZEPK0AQN&psc=1&refRID=GPHXDZ6S1JHGZEPK0AQN
 

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reedb

Registered
Quick update:

We were able to get the "wookie" started, without the control, by bleeding the Roosa Master Injection Pump and filling the engine with boiling water. Not sure the last time this engine ran, but all of the diesel which we drained from the pump and filter had a very strong varnish smell. Based on the current owner we know it has been at least five years since the last run.

WRT the control: it has been heavily modified with a recent time delay relay which looks like it may have taken the place of the item marked ITS on my partial diagram. Still investigating the short and mods in the control. Thanks to all who have helped! -Reed
 

mdj21

Registered
If you want to put the controller back to original, you can still get that 1TS push button circuit breaker from Digikey. The original was made by ETA and the part number was 46-400-P10-A3-Si 4141-245803. The new one is still made by ETA, but their numbering system has changed. The new number that crosses to that old number is 2-6400-IG8-P10-A3-Si-401041.
 
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