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Kohler 2.5RM62

gnucklehead

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
Does anybody have a Kohler Kohler 2.5RM62 generator with a K161EP that is 1800RPM? One on CL, but 16 cu-in displacement seems to be underpowered for 2500 kVA @1800 :shrug::shrug:. looks original, K161 and 1800 are clear on the tags.. I would think it needs a K241.
 

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Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
That's interesting. That is the first four pole Kohler generator I have seen that does not have the poles set at 45 degrees from the vertical / horizontal axis. Looking at the first photo I would have said that it's a two pole generator. But the nameplate indicates otherwise.

I have a 2 kW 1800 rpm Winpower generator, driven by a 23 ci Briggs, running on gasoline. That little Kohler is running gaseous fuel, according to the nameplate.

Maybe it's a high compression engine? :shrug:

Or non-original nameplate? :shrug:

Or an error on the nameplate? :shrug:

You should go check it out, and report back. :brows:
 

Ken Karrow

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/10/2019
Strange indeed. I have a 1.25RM21 with a K161. Says 1.25KW & 10.4 Amp, tag in pix is 1.5KW & 10.4 Amp which is not 2.5 KW. Have no doubt will handle 1.5 KW easily but 2.5 ?
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
But this one is 120/240, so 10.4 amps is 2-1/2 kW.

But I'm not seeing the K161?
 

gnucklehead

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
Update: I drove out and picked up this lil genny.. It's a 2-pole 3600RPM set. The electric start works (exciter cranked), engine has spark and compression, but the gen-end has some issues. Brush holder for the first AC slip ring is the neutral (grounded in the control box), which is also connected to a DC brush - has done some arc welding :eek: Does anyone know what the AC coil resistances should be? It's 3-wire 120/240 AC and the two legs measure exactly the same resistance (0.320 ohms each, 0.640 across both), doesn't have any ground shorts.. I might try to repair it, but probably end up using the engine for another project :shrug: Apart from this. it's in good shape
 

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Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
Have you tested to see that there is no continuity between the collector rings and the commutator?
 

gnucklehead

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
Good point, so I went out and checked - no continuity. I'm not too optimistic on this armature, but has to come off anyway
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
Well, the continuity tests are looking good so far. Weird about the burned spot on the collector ring. :shrug:

Too bad that it is not the 1800 rpm that the nameplate indicated. That's even more weird!
 

gnucklehead

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
This never happens to me, especially with Kohlers - I found another cheap 2.5RM62, and it's a tri-fuel. I have never seen a gaseous engine this messed up! The KN regulator left a nice pile of sand on the floor when I opened it up, and had very fine orange powdery stuff everywhere. Maybe this was used on a well head, up in fracking country, and the filter ruptured :shrug: I've seen propane sets with a chalky white/yellowish crust, but this orange stuff is new for me.. Like brick powder. It cleaned up easy enough.

The armature on the previous set is toast, but this 2nd one is good.
 

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Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
Wow, that's weird. Looks like bright orange rust! What ever it is it can't be good for the engine. At least it has an honest nameplate.

What ended up being the problem with the other armature?

Keith
 

gnucklehead

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
The AC windings have significantly lower resistance than the unit#2, and just by exciter-cranking it over (engine not running), it's arcing across the first two slip-rings, right hat the point where the rings are damaged (post #7 image). No ground short. no AC-DC short, so maybe there's a short in the AC that bypasses a few loops :shrug:
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
The AC windings have significantly lower resistance than the unit#2, and just by exciter-cranking it over (engine not running), it's arcing across the first two slip-rings, right hat the point where the rings are damaged (post #7 image). No ground short. no AC-DC short, so maybe there's a short in the AC that bypasses a few loops :shrug:
Interesting. Almost sounds like a carbon track has been established between the two rings, probably due to the build up of conductive brush dust. Perhaps a thorough cleaning to remove any trace of carbon would cure it's ails... :shrug:

Keith
 

gnucklehead

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
Yeah, unless it's impregnated in there deep, something weird for sparks to jump that far while turning over at cranking speed. Unit#2 (Tri-fuel, spec 42129E) had over an inch of thick sludge in the oil sump, but I'm still confident it has some life left in it. Also has a wiring diagram under the control panel lid - Controller A-243840
 

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gnucklehead

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
Another K161EP genny jumped in my car over lunch hour.. 2.5RM22 - same controls as the unit in the first post, 120V-only, gaseous-only Kohler carb.. 3600RPM, but hey - these are still decent little gensets. Photos from CL. "PA Cert No 1875" on this one, uses a TCA4004 for 2-stage battery charging. Should end up with two good units after the dust settles.

Maybe experiment with this one.. Build that anaerobic digester that I've always dreamed of :brows:
;)
 

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gnucklehead

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
For now, I guess adding to this thread sorta makes sense - K16x gensets :shrug: Google still finds the model and controller numbers

Recently added another Kohler to the cluster, 1800RPM tri-fuel 1R22 with a K160 and A243830 controller.. Controller is a bit odd, two-position start/stop switch with two terminals, does not have the momentary contact for the start like the other units. Had a nice print under the hood :D Will try to run it tonight, on a rebuild fuel pump and fresh oil.
 

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Zephyr7

Registered
I’m a little late to the party here, but that bright yellow dust tends to be what you get in corrosive atmospheres. That can be very high humidity with a hot engine, or fumes (I see that sometimes in steel things in battery rooms, bright orange or black corrosion). It should clean up the same as “regular” rust.

Bill
 

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