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Kohler 20RZ82 Not starting/No Fire

Zephyr7

Registered
This was low coolant for me once. It only has to be down a little bit to trigger that fault.

I’ve seen low battery trigger that fault too.

Bill
 

RobbieBott

Registered
This is the AMP meter reading with my whole home running on it.
That includes a standup freezer, a chest freezer, a 4 ton AC unit, and a refrigerator, and all the lights and other equipment in my home on.
This can't be right? How can I check this?
 

Attachments

RobbieBott

Registered
Each leg shows 23 amps, with my neighbors clamp meter. Where do I start looking to troubleshoot this?

@Zephyr7 Any luck finding that digital manual?
 

RobbieBott

Registered
My amp meter on the gen set shows no amperage, htz and voltage work fine but the amp meter isn't. I got my neighbors clamp meter and it reads that each leg has 23 amps flowing through it with my house running. How do I fix the amp meter on the gen set? Where/what would be a good place to start looking to correct it?
 

Zephyr7

Registered
You probably need to loop the output lead(s) through the CT a second time. You’re half low, showing about 10 amps where you should see about 20. Looping the wire through the CT a second time will double the reading. I’ll check the manual for 120/240 configuration and see if it agrees.

Ok, I checked. The manual doesn’t show a double loop, but it does show two in-phase windings passing through each CT. I suspect you only have one of the two windings passing through each CT which is why you’re reading half low.

I’ll check if I have an electronic manual for your set the pic is from my paper copy.

Bill
 

Attachments

RobbieBott

Registered
I have three metal hoops (I'm guessing CTs) at the top of the alternator. One leg is looped around what I'm guessing is the first CT and the next leg is looped through the second CT, the third CT has nothing through it.
 

Birken Vogt

Email NOT Working
You notice the meter does not really have any markings for the low end of its scale. It might just be that the load you have applied is just barely enough to start the meter up out of its dead band.
 

Zephyr7

Registered
@Zephyr7 Any luck finding that digital manual?
Yep, I have service manuals for the 20RZ. I have “them” actually — separate manual docs for the generator set and the controller. There is some info for the block heater install too. Surprisingly, there doesn’t seem to be a simple data sheet in the doc pack.

The genset manual is all the wiring diagrams for the generator end and controller. The engine manual has a placeholder saying you have to get it from ford.

I have an operation manual too.

I can email’em, PM me with your address.

Bill

I have three metal hoops (I'm guessing CTs) at the top of the alternator. One leg is looped around what I'm guessing is the first CT and the next leg is looped through the second CT, the third CT has nothing through it.
You need to wire it as shown in the drawing I sent. The CTs are “current transformers” and they look like doughnuts. If you only see “one leg” going through the hole in the middle of the CT, then that’s your problem. Find the other wire as marked on the drawing and pass it through the middle too. Each wire has to be in-phase (check the labels on the wires and compare them to the drawing, and has to go the same direction through the CT. The drawing is pretty clear (note where the dot on the CT is too, the wires need to pass through the side shown with the dot), make your unit like the drawing and you should be good.

Bill
 
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