Kohler 5R61 Armature Removal

Bent Trigger

Subscriber
Thanks for letting me join this Forum. This is my first post, but have been lurking for a while. Well I've tried all the tricks I've read about on this site to remove the armature from the crankshaft, but it still won't budge. Tried the shop manual method(Thanks gary88) no go. Threaded the end of the shaft and inserted a rod, tightened bolt against the rod and now the rod won't come out. Threaded a grease zerk into the 5/8 bolt and put a tube of grease in it. Still a no go! Any other suggestions? Or am I missing something, other than my mind?
 

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mdj21

New member
Clean it up before you throw in the towel.

Cylinders can be honed and valves can be lapped very cheap and easy.
 

Bent Trigger

Subscriber
Yeah, when I removed the oil pan, it didn't look too bad. I will continue to try to get it going, seems like a longshot, but I have experience rebuilding some of the worst piles known to man. When I drove the pin into the crank with the 5/8" bolt, using an air gun, it pulled the hollow shaft about 1/2" out. So I drove it back into position. Then I hung the armature (with the engine attached) to an overhead crane and tried to drive the pin manually, still did not budge. I'm going to wrap the rear of the crank with dry ice and see if the armature will move. Does anyone know anything about the crank/armature connection? What is the size of the crank taper, does the armature go over or inside the crank. Is the armature tapered as well? How big is the hollow of the armature? How long is the tapper fit? Is that a key or a woodruff in the exploded diagram? Does someone have a photograph of an L600 crank end or armature end? Am I missing a fastener?

I also attributed the manual to gary88. It actually came from roundup. Thank You roundup!!!:wave:
 

jack0

Member
I had one apart a few years ago to replace the rear seal. Mine popped off fairly easily. There is a few thousands of end play on the crank. I made sure to pull the armature rearward after each strike. Strike squarely on the head of the bolt. The crank is the male taper. Pretty large. Like maybe 1.5" to 1.25". Length of taper maybe an inch. No key. I can't see how putting a pin in the crank and drawing down the bolt is going to help in any way. The crank is threaded. The bolt sets and holds the tapers. There is really only 1 way to get the armature off the taper. By the book and a big hammer. It may now be a parts machine. Good luck.
 

Bent Trigger

Subscriber
My first attempt was as the book shows, the result was no movement. Even with moving the crank back to the rear position, I had only .001 of movement.Following some of the suggestions. I threaded the end for the armature with a 5/8 tap and put a 3/8 rod into the place of the thru bolt. Tightening the 5/8 bolt against the rod. But my result was the center shaft moving, not the taper separating. I'll get it separated. Thanks for the reply jackO.
 

LWB250

Active member
Big brass hammer. Then you won't damage the bolt but you'll transmit the maximum amount of energy into the bolt and crankshaft.

At the factory we had brass hammers or (gasp!) lead hammers.

A couple of really good whacks with one of these on a bolt that's been tightened then backed out about 1/2-3/4 of a turn to give a small amount of clearance and you'll hear a sort of hollow "popping" sound when the parts separate.

Dan
 

Bent Trigger

Subscriber
OK, so I got the armature off. First I thought I might be able to cut and remove the cooling fan key and spin it down on some shims. The cooling fan is not threaded even though it looks like it is. So 4 craftsman pry bars, with one ground down 1/4" for maximum separation. Wedged them under the cooling fan hub and after an immence amount of force......pop. My rod was mushroomed into the threads, but I got that out and dressed the threads. All good. I got all the pistons and valves out yesterday with only two casualties, one exhaust valve and one middle ring. So all in all, only gonna need a few things to make the engine run. Then we'll know if it will produce voltage. It'll take a while to get the grease out of the armature, and I will never do that or the rod maneuver again. The crank taper has a woodruff key and is 1.75" at it's max and 1.6" at the small end and 1.375" long. Here's some pics. Also it looks like I wasn't the first visitor to this armature/crank connection.HAHAHHAHA:crazy:
 

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Vanman

Subscriber
If you have access to a good ohmmeter you can test the generator armature and field windings for grounds and, to some extent, for shorts.
 

Bent Trigger

Subscriber
Does anyone know what the paint color code is for the 5r61?With the unit disassembled, I'm going to go all the way and make it look as new as I can.
 

Bent Trigger

Subscriber
So I ordered a crap load of parts for the l600, and found the ring kit 240967 I ordered from Advance Service And Parts was no longer available , though they list it in their inventory. So i'm looking for a set. ANY INFO IS WELCOME. I've tried calling Otto Gas Engine Works as I read about them in Andrew Mackey' article from 1995. But the phone just rings. I have a lead from another site I don't remember at this time that will make a new set but I haven't checked the price and I am already over my budget. This is a pretty cool machine and I'm committed to making it work. These projects really try to beat you to the ground, but as an old soldier I know what it takes to make IT suffer.
 

Bent Trigger

Subscriber
The block and head cleaned up well. I wanted to match the paint but the color, Chevy 39111 if I remember, was 80$ for a quart and more for the thinner and catalyst. So I went with the hardware store Rust-oleum Hammered 7212 Light Blue. I think it looks good and 3 cans at 21$ was good for my wallet. The valve ports look pretty clean and the original copper clad asbestos gaskets cleaned up enough to be reused. Rebuilt the electric choke coil and mechanism. And scored an original NOS set of rings. Going to lap the valves and install the cam and crank today. Still waiting for parts from C-----n. Yeah listed as in stock, paid for them and a week later waiting for them to get them from Kohler, won't happen again. I mean if you have it you have it! I can say I have 1943 V-2 rocket and once you pay I'll see if Von Braun will let it go hahahaha! Done with that rant...More to come.:crazy:Here's some pics.

Try this. Hope this time will work.
 
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