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Lister help

E27N

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
01/06/2020
LT1 built 1980 ( I think ) LT1’s started in ‘74 and you add the ‘30’ to 1950 to get the year.
 

RustyNumbat

Registered
Fired it up today after cleaning out the fuel tank and bowl. Ran beautifully for the few seconds I let it, got it powering up a lamp as well. Found a pdf online of the shop manual so that's good.

Couldn't figure out what the bung next to the top of the engine block was for, is there meant to be a water jacket or something?

Might have to go give the block an extra $50, I would have paid that if he had known it was in working order.
 

E27N

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
01/06/2020
If you mean this one, that’s for adding a small amount of oil to assist cold starting ( helps seal the rings bumps up compression a bit)

EECFBB4E-2FC3-4981-9923-239BE3DD902A.jpg
 

RustyNumbat

Registered
Yeah that was my guess :D Have to go find a matching new fuel filter and then I'd say it's ready to try some hard work with to test the genny out!
 

RustyNumbat

Registered
Took the top off today out of curiosity, one of the bolts snapped off : / Ah well, only needs three.

Should I bother cleaning out the buildup in the water jacket? And do I need to do anything else up the top here? Need to work out how to get at the timing to find out why it started firing wrong.

 

karragullengine

Registered
You have youself a lister D there. You need to make sure water will go out the bottom hose freely as they can build up rust in the ports. Other than that wouldn't worry too much. The rockers shaft should have a greaser on the end, cant see it. May have been converted to grease nipple. Only lubrication it gets so good to clean it up.
 

RustyNumbat

Registered
It actually has a screw in grease cap which was pretty interesting to find!

Planning on resurrecting a couple of my grandfathers old milking vacuums to give this thing something to drive.
 

RustyNumbat

Registered
Trying to get the Lister D to behave tonight before tomorrow's show, I've worked out it's firing as I crank and blowing back out the air intake... So something definitely not right there. It only actually backfired the crank and wheel twice though...
 

karragullengine

Registered
Use some bent wire in the spark plug hole to check where piston is, about 2mm before top dead centre the points on your magneto should be just opening because as they lose contact it creates the spark instantly. If that is right then your air fuel mix is not quite right.
 

Scotty 2

Registered
Hello Rusty
Great engines the good old Lister D.

On the flywheel there should be a lightning bolt. Turn the flywheel until it's up the top (if I remember right there's a vertical groove to use as a mark in the block) and check if the magneto points are just opening. Use a ciggy paper to feel when the points a re just opening. Pull slightly on the paper while turning the flywheel and you'll feel the tension letting go of the paper.
Or use a timing light. You'll need a timing light and a 12v battery for that.

If you want a manual just PM me your email.

Cheers Scott
 

RustyNumbat

Registered
Is there anything in particular I can apply to the wall of the water reservoir and/or water jacket in order to prevent corrosion? Or will enamel paint do the trick?
 

karragullengine

Registered
Don't want to paint it as water just gets inbetween and corrodes out the the paint flakes off and blocks up the ports. There is plenty of metal there so wont corrode right through in your lifetime. Some old guys throw tea bags in there in a mesh cage and the tannin in the tea releases protecting the metal. You don't want to use just inhibitor as can change the boiling point of the water. You can get some water soluble oil and put some of that in with the water and leaves an oil residue stopping rust.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Try to release any and all of the flakey rust you can using a long screw driver or anything that works.
Recently I removed rust from the inside of a fuel tank using hydrochloric acid. Let soak on each side for 1 hour then drained and rinsed and rinsed and rinsed. It's been empty now for about a month and it is still shiny inside and no sign of rust. I have also used a rust converter by Bondall to treat surface and heavy rust. I have simply brushed or squirted it on using a hand spray bottle and left it for 24 hours before either painting it or simply leave it as is. On the tray of Lorry I tip any left overs on the checker plate floor and it turns to a milky white colour and rust so far has not reformed.
 

RustyNumbat

Registered
HEAR YE HEAR YE Johnny took it home (along with his 9G) yesterday and had it fixed and running within an hour.

He reackons he's too modest to come gloat about it...:bonk:
 

E27N

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
01/06/2020
Sh!t I thought you and Johanathon had disappeared off the face of the planet...and what’s with him collecting stationary engines, he used to mention them in hushed tones during polite conversation now he’s got what 3 or 4...... hmmmmmm.....
 

john gilbert

Registered
Sh!t I thought you and Johanathon had disappeared off the face of the planet...and what’s with him collecting stationary engines, he used to mention them in hushed tones during polite conversation now he’s got what 3 or 4...... hmmmmmm.....
Hi there E27N sounds like another man getting the sickness , over there in the far West. cheers John
 
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