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MacDonald Super Imperial Diesel

cobbadog

Registered
Well after years of them sitting under the house keeping the spiders company I am going to start on getting a MacDonald Super Imperial Diesel back to running again. I have 2 of them and should have enough parts now to make one engine out of them both. Some parts missing from both and I think with the box of bits I have that he Hivid/bonz system is complete. So today I started squirting diesel all over the engines to start penetrating into the nuts and bolts as well as the gib keys. These are both hopper cooled engines and the numbers are close to one another. From memory they were sold to an Oyster factory near to us which was on the Manning River. Have no idea if they drove a winch or pump or what but local history is a good thing.
To start with I want to select the engine to get running then build a transporter to sit it on so I can move it around as I work on it. One engine lookss if the nuts and bolts have rusted badly and have eroded away and the other seems ok so just the initial thoughts is go with the least rusty one and the rusty one can supply parts, maybe. I think they are SE or CE MacDonals but they are 5hp rated, I will dig out the details later.
What I would also like to see is some photos of a basic transporter to mount this great lump onto. I have some very heavy new hardwood fence posts for the main rails and will pick up some extra bits to use as cross braces and for the axle mounts. Wheels are going to from an industrial dumpster bin I bought years ago just for this project and are about 4"/100mm OD.
 

Scotty 2

Registered
Hello Cobba
Can't wait for the write ups. You might just guilt me into doing some more on our McDonald. 🥴
I'd rethink the wheel size unless you want to only move the big lump on concrete. 100mm might just sink into anything that's not solid.

Cheers then
Scott :)
 

isandian

Registered
If 5HP they are the CE. You most definitely need bigger wheels as already noted. These are not light engines.

Here is a photo of my CE on an original transport, and a photo of a transport I made for another one. It has 10" x 2 1/4" wheels which are only just adequate.

IanCE4859.JPGCE transporter.JPG
 

cobbadog

Registered
Thanks for the heads up guys. Will look about for larger diameter wheels but these might be good enough for the moment just to move it about of the rare spare bit of concrete I have so I can drag it out when working on and get rid of it when not.
Ian, if not too much trouble can you supply some measurements of your please. Overall length and width as well as width of your axles. That would help quite a bit if you don't mind.
Mine has solid flywheels on it but the same oval shape hopper on at least one of the engines, the other hopper is further back and out of site at the moment.
Cheers John
 

isandian

Registered
Sorry for the delay - a computer hiatus after storm damage - nothing thrills as much as spending hours in contact with Telstra and the ISP trying to get the problems fixed.
The solid flywheel type would be an SE, and less than 5hp. Mine is rated 3.5hp on its plate.
The transporter is for the larger CE. It is 15" wide, 44" long, and the axles are 24" to the inside of the wheels. In the photo you will see the wheels are set inside the overall length, and the holes to mount the engine base are in the cross members. I had turntable castings I have used on several similar transporters now.
Ian
 

cobbadog

Registered
Thanks Ian for the info, it will come in handy. Dealing with ISP companies can be a challenge to be nice about that.
Just went out to get the numbers off them. One is 3970SE and the other is 3590SE. Any info on these will be helpful as to age and delivered to if possible. I was told they were delivered to Bohnock near Taree whic is where there is an Oyster Business.
For some reason I thought these were 5hp but obviously not.
 

isandian

Registered
3590SE was made in 1944, 3970SE in 1945. i do not have any factory records - you need to contact Ray Gillett who has the Register and should have delivery information, though often they were just delivered to interstate agents. You will find his contact details in TOMM and "The Oily Rag".
Ian
 

Darryl

Registered
cobba , with the transport axle width, and if you end up using larger diameter wheels, make sure you get the wheels wide enough to clear the belt pulley because you might want to belt it up to something one day.
 

cobbadog

Registered
I just might want to belt it up something too if it doesn't play the game. I keep looking at it to work out my best plan of attack and during the week I will get some more hardwood timber for the transporter as I didn't have enough here on hand. So a slight delay but gave me time to tidy up a set of 32 LED driving lights for Lorry while I wait then get the multimeter out and start testing some of the wires just behind the bull bar to see which ones are live and wired to an unknown switch on the dash board. Keeps me out of trouble I guess.
 

cobbadog

Registered
What diameter axle would do the job on these Macs? Today I had a set of 65mm wide bands rolled up to being 250mm / 10" diameter and will make the wheels I want in time as I have afew things that must be done before play time continues.
 

Dobbo56

Registered
What diameter axle would do the job on these Macs? Today I had a set of 65mm wide bands rolled up to being 250mm / 10" diameter and will make the wheels I want in time as I have afew things that must be done before play time continues.
Cobba
Minimum 20mm maximum 25mm!
I made my hubs 20mm manyly because I didn't have a 25mm drill bit. My first transporter for the IHC 3 M has 20mm and they have been no trouble, but I'm using rubber tyred wheels, haven't had time to do the U bolts and steering dolly to complete transporter 2.
Cheers
Dobbo
 

cobbadog

Registered
Welcome back to the Forum Dobbo. I sent you a sms today to see if it would find you.
Yeah I was thinking 25mm and then I could drill the hub first then get into it on the lathe with the boring bar or my steel supplier may have some thick walled pipe sitting around.
 

isandian

Registered
What diameter axle would do the job on these Macs? Today I had a set of 65mm wide bands rolled up to being 250mm / 10" diameter and will make the wheels I want in time as I have afew things that must be done before play time continues.
On the transporter I showed, I used 1" diameter for the axles, inserted into 30mm RHS in turn into 40mm RHS which was the size used for the actual axles. A hole was drilled inboard through the two thicknesses of RHS and the round bar puddle welded to retain it. This of course is not appropriate for a timber transporter. Ian
 

cobbadog

Registered
Well the last of the timber came home today and now some serious thought needs to go into final sizes to cut the timber. I can still make the steel axles in a similar way as you have as I will be putting a round steel plate against the underside of the timber and screwing it in place then another round plate attached to the metal axle and of course a centre pin to keep things in place.
I've been giving both engines a drink of diesel on a regular basis to help free up some of the parts for disassembly but bot some of it has rust on rust. One engine is missing the piston and conrod so I have to pull the only piston out and check measure both bores as the engine that is missing the piston is in better looking condition than the other one. The bad engine has one missing head stud and nut, half of the stud missing due to rust from one side but then 2 good ones. So with some big 1" drive sockets and breaker bar I hope to get that off and see what happens from there. I want to drop off the flywheels from both engines and the gibb keys on one engine look as if they have been removed and only lightly put back into position, this is yet to be proven.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Had a late start to the day of play with visitors ll morning so this afternoon I spent time mentally designing the transporter and taking measurements. So with all that kind of stuck in my head the side rails have been cut to length at 1.000 metre. Tomorrow the 3 cross sections will be cut and marked out for drilling and with a slight change to my original idea I am now half the amount of coach bolts short to bolt it all together but that gives me time to start stripping an engine down as well. The timber is 125mm x 75mm hardwood fence post, bloody heavy.
 

Attachments

asw20

Registered
I will be watching this eagerly as I have two transports to make hopefully this year: the Tangye and the Lister CS (mainly because I can't run it without chasing it across the shed floor!) I am utterly clueless about such things (cannot design stuff in my head like most people seem able to)

Thanks, Jarrod.
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Cobba
Are you going to try to keep it in era with the cuphead bolts having square nuts?
If so Newcastle high tension bolts stock BSW threaded cupheads and square nuts, that what I am going to use for the Inter 3M transporter I'm making. That's when I can get someone out of the boat long enough and we do go home.
Cheers
Dobbo
 

cobbadog

Registered
Hi Jarrod,
Best to use some good heavy steel RHS beams if it is a big Tangye then the wheels are an issue to find as well, but now you can see how easy it is to make the wheels maybe you can do the same.
Hi Dobbo,
No special nuts n bolts on this one. I am using large coach bolts and heavy flat washers and bolting into the timber. It would be too tricky to bore a hole right through from one side to the other but, not impossible.
I just need to pick up extra coach bolts as I changed my initial plans and now need twice as many as originally planned. So with the parts cut and drilled ready to put the bolts in place this is where I am at today. This did not take me all day as I had to put the flashing up over the small extension of the carport, do this important job then spent the afternoon planning a 3 states in 3 weeks trip from late April.20200223_112953.jpg20200223_115510.jpg
 
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