• If you like antique engines, vintage tractors or old iron machinery, register and join us. When you register on Smokstak, please give complete answers and fill in all blanks. IF YOU ARE ON WIRELESS OR SATELLITE, GIVE YOUR CITY AND STATE! NO ZIPCODES! All registrations are manually approved.

MacDonald Super Imperial Diesel

Scotty 2

Registered
Hello Cobba
Coming along nicely.
A handy hint if you don't mind. Put some bolts and big washers horizontally and perpendicular to the coach screw holes so the short bits of timber do not split. I'd use 2 or 3 on each piece. A bit of a decent thickness of steel ribbon that reaches from top to bottom and a bolt between the coach bolts holes may even do.

Cheers Scott
PS: Where's bit number V?
 
Last edited:

cobbadog

Registered
This is where I got to today. Main rails and 3 cross members are bolted in solid and 2 axle support also cut to length and then the 25mm bright steel axles will extend past the ends of the timber. Will pick up some plate for the turntable so the timber will run smoothly when turning and pivot on a 20mm HT bolt. I will slightly recess the axles into the supports and plate them into position as well. Also had to do a little paring of some high spots on the cross members, OOPS.
Hi Scotty, I'm always up for good advise but I don't follow what it is your saying, it must be me being in NSW.20200224_135007.jpg20200224_144116.jpg
 

Scotty 2

Registered
Hello Cobba
You see 3 red dots. Option 1 would be a plate on each side and a bolt through the middle red dot. Option 2 would be 3 bolts and washers where the red dots are


Cobba's trolley_LI (2).jpg
 

cobbadog

Registered
Gotch-ya Scotty, will knock something up along those lines and I can see the sense in it so thanks.
Darryl, it is a well balanced transporter, unlike me.
When tightening up these 150 x 12mm coach bolts it took some doing and I would not like to have the job of ever undoing them in the future. I think this hardwood is still a bit green and will do a shrink fit onto the bolts. The darker coloured wood is just older and has sat out in the sunlight and went grey but then it got rained on for a while which increased the weight of it. The lighter coloured lengths are new, fresh from the mill.
 

Ray Freeman

Registered
Remembering back to a former life as a shed builder here. Before steel purlins were the go we were supplied with green timber fresh from the mill. Mainly Jarrah and Karri. On a few occasions I went back to the sheds after a few weeks to carry out an alteration. I usually found if I took out a Cad plated cuphead bolt it had usually corroded in the timber to about half its diameter. This stuff was green enough that when you drove a tek screw into it sap would come out around the screw. Not sure if you timber is that corrosive.
 

Scotty 2

Registered
When tightening up these 150 x 12mm coach bolts it took some doing and I would not like to have the job of ever undoing them in the future. I think this hardwood is still a bit green and will do a shrink fit onto the bolts.
Hello Cobba
Then you'll especially need those anti-split bolts. Coach screws (or any screw) is really a wedge.
We used to coat bolts with good old Vaseline or grease when we put even galvanised bolts into timber, especially treated timber. Putting some Vas on the coach screws may enable you to tighten the coach screws up when the timber shrinks and the joints loosen Cob.

If we ever got timber that had sap coming out of it when we did anything to it, we'd send it back. It could only lead to problems down the track.

Cheers Scott
 

cobbadog

Registered
I went to work then realised that we had a power outage, yet again, and went back home to kick off the genset to keep the fridge n freezer nice and cold. So wasted more time back at work then back home again and too the GOAT (mower) for a walk over the long grass again even though it had only been 5 days since it last got hit. Only 2 hours to go until they switch it back on and then I need to do invoices and quotes, end of day. So on the next trip to town I will look for the metal plate and extra bolts as Scotty suggested and take the punt on these coach bolts holding up to the task.
Got no sap in this stuff but it is considered to be green so it may have been wheeled passed the ovens slowly to say it is now dried. I do expect some shrinkage from it though. The coach bolts are galvanised but nickel washers to go rusty quickly to keep the look happening. Now thay have purpose coated bolts for treated timber and they are a greenish colour.
 
Last edited:

cobbadog

Registered
Had a little bit of time to spend on the axles today. I faced the ends of the axles and put a 1/8" chamfer on the ends, cross drilled them for the axle clips to hold the wheels in place and then mocked it up to double check the inside width. I have already cut some pipe to be welded in place to stop the wheel going inwards and these will be welded in place soon.
Do your best to ignore the cocky shit welding.20200301_141811.jpg20200301_141510.jpg20200301_115836.jpg
 

Clapper

Registered
Age
72
Hi Cobbabog
I have used the same clips on a couple of transporters, beware they are easily flicked out if caught on anything.

Cheers

Ian
 

cobbadog

Registered
When I built the big transporter for the 8hp Lister I used the bigger versions of this clip. They are simple and great and hopefully I will never get them hooked up on something. The Lister weighs around 300kg now and the MAc isn't as heavy but it would be around the 200kg mark as two engines only in the box trailer flattened out the springs and it was a new set of 750kg springs
 

Scotty 2

Registered
I have used the same clips on a couple of transporters, beware they are easily flicked out if caught on anything.
Or is it that they just don't want to be seen in a Ford? 😂 😇

Just make sure the holes for the pins end up vertical and you should be right Cobba. Actually, why are you using those clips Cobba? Are you wanting to take the wheels off all the time?

Cheers Scott
 

Clapper

Registered
Age
72
If you want to buy a wreck buy a Ford
Four square wheels and a board
A biscuit tin with an engine
If you want to buy a wreck buy a Ford

Ian
 

cobbadog

Registered
While I have been thinking about the transporter I realised that I need to find, buy or make a crank handle to suit this SE McDonald. If anyone has one for sale please let me know or if anyone has one that they can post a picture of it and let me know some dimensions of what it is I need to make. Also will be looking for a fuel tank at some stage.
 

cobbadog

Registered
I picked up some plate steel for the turntable and those 'fish' plates too Scotty. Work has got in the way of play time lately but I will get back at it soon.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Today I got a phone call of one of the previous owners of the engines and said that these have a built in handle into the flywheel, so while I was talking to him on the phone I went and had a look and there it is, partly sticking out from the flywheel.
So thanks for the heads up, but I haven't had time until now to get on here to correct my stuff up.
 
Top