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McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

FWurth

One Millionth Post
Last Subscription Date
07/29/2019
I think that PTO on them is a 540 rpm splined end that simply is threaded onto the end under the cap. For some reason they don't turn up too often with it installed. We had a W30 with it on but the others aren't installed. F.J.W.
 

rennkafer

Registered
My understanding is that the earlier tractors were threaded and the later (probably all 22-36 and maybe late 15-30) were splined. Haven't had the cover off of mine to look yet.
 

Mark Schneider

Registered
Last Subscription Date
11/14/2018
I had a '27 15-30 that had one these PTO shafts installed. Other than the fact it was kind of a novelty to have one I found it a nuisance when operating the tractor on a threshing machine. The PTO turned whenever the belt pulley was operational. Its position was such as to cause a real injury risk as the potential to get your pants leg wound up in it was there while climbing on and off the tractor to start and stop the belt. I made a cover for mine for safety reasons. Also the very high PTO shaft mounting in relation to the drawbar height made it practically worthless for use on any modern PTO equipment.
 

FWurth

One Millionth Post
Last Subscription Date
07/29/2019
Good point Mark! Many years ago as a teenager I went to work after school at a local small farm run by a school teacher. The first day he came out of the house with a bundle of rags and droped them in front of me. It was the remains of a pair of overalls and every seam was ripped apart completely. He went on to say "I was wearing these overalls while driving the 10-20 McCormick while pulling the combine. I got the trouser cuff caught on the pto and it took them right off me, I felt it catch and I held on to the steering wheel tight!" He was using the tractor on a PTO driven AC combine. The then showed me his arm that had a scar the whole length of it, They had to put in 40 some stiches to pull it back closed. Now the event had happened some years past but he always used it as a safety lesson to all new helpers. It got my attention! One lesson that I've never forgotten to this day. F.J.W.
 

rennkafer

Registered
Thanks for the photos! If you ever take that apart, let me know. Looks like it would be pretty simple to fab up though.
 

rwood64083

Registered
I had to get Bertha off the trailer and under cover. Wife and I have plans on expanding the shop. Until then, at least the 22-36 is under some covered storage and I can work on it out of the sun.

It was a handful to unload by myself. Like everything, take your time and use your resources. My Ford 4000 pulled the McD but not without grunting a few times in the process.









 

Russ Hamm

Subscriber
Age
61
Last Subscription Date
10/12/2024
My understanding is that the earlier tractors were threaded and the later (probably all 22-36 and maybe late 15-30) were splined. Haven't had the cover off of mine to look yet.
That is right, the 22-36's slide over a gear at the back of the transmission, the bearing and bracket at the rear hold in on. Iv'e put them on before, the front end is very heavy and it is a trick getting them in. I use a rod at the front through the filler hole to hold it up when installing. The rear of the shaft is threaded and the splines turn onto them. Some don't come off easily.
We have several 10-20's and 15-30's with pto also and they are threaded.
There is an aftermarket shield for them that you will see most on a w-30, or you can make them safe in other ways.
We have several of the pto extensions also that you see in the grain binder parts books, with long wide shields. I tried to run a binder with one of our 22-36's a while back, but the ground speed was too fast. We used a 10-20 and all was well.
 

rwood64083

Registered
I knew it was going to be awhile before I have a chance to work on Bertha. But I did use a 12 ton bottle jack and raised each corner so I could put some boards under the steel wheels. Couldn't stand the thought of them sitting in the dirt and risk additional deterioration.

I tried to pull Bertha up on boards when I off-loaded her from the trailer. The Ford 4000 pulled her just fine but when it came to getting the steel wheels to roll onto the boards the Ford lacked the weight and just spun the tires.

I also found there's a large amount of slop/play in the steering at the tie-rod end areas. Not sure what's worn yet and what will need replacing to remedy the problem.

As always, photos are good :cool:







If you look close you'll notice the weight at the right front wheel split the board. Guess I didn't have the ground nice and flat under the board.


Besides worn cleats I notice a handful of odd size cleats bolted to each wheel
 

Nebraska Kirk

Registered
On the worn tie rod ends, I would say the pins are worn and the hole in the end of the of the steering arm is worn eg-shaped. My 22-36 is the same way and the only fix is to remove the steering arms, bore the worn hole, install a repair bushing and make new pins. I have had to do this repair on both a WA40 and a 10-20.
 

rwood64083

Registered
Thanks Kirk. I kinda figured that would be the repair. It's just nice to hear from someone that's done it on one of these old tractors.
 

rwood64083

Registered
It's been awhile since my last post. I've been terribly busy on every thing except the 22-36.

The 28th Annual Pioneer Days Antique Tractor Pull & Gas Engine Show. Friday, September 11 in Eagleville TN is coming up quick. I'm hoping to enter the 22-36 in the pull.

I haven't worked on the tractor at all. Up until today I had not started looking for a carburetor. I was in luck. I found a replacement Robin S45 carburetor from a gentleman in Canada. It has been bought, packaged and was shipped today.
Maybe there's hope I will have this thing running and checked out before the pull.

Color me optimistic and excited.
 

R Pope

Registered
It's my understanding that the grey tractors were painted red when they got traded in to an IHC dealer. Lots of them around here with traces of a quick red paint job still visible.
I have my Dad's 22-36 that he bought new. Due to the Robin intake and upward pointing exhaust, it's stuck solid. I acquired a running one on rubber and am going to put the steel wheels off Dad's old girl on it.
Dad's old tractor with the Robin conversion and more RPM wasn't far behind our 1940 W9 in the field. Lots more power than a W6, but the steel wheels made it a rough ride.
 

rwood64083

Registered
The Robin S45 carburetor was delivered. Looks to be in good shape with exception to the throttle shaft/plate. I'm headed to the shop to do some parts swapping and installing on tractor.

I've gone back and read everyone's suggestions on preliminary checks before trying to fire the big 4 cylinder. Appreciate all the advice. Will be back soon to post any updates

 

rwood64083

Registered
Yesterday I had some time to spend on Bertha. Instead of swapping the entire carburetor I removed the bowl cover and float assembly, installed them on the old carb.

I'm not surprised at home made gaskets. I used to do the same thing when I was younger.


The old cork float is looking a little rough. But seems to be working. Having a tough time getting it adjusted though. Will look for a suitable replacement in the future. May try to find a carb from a Massey 44, as was suggested to me on here.


Oiled up a few moving parts. And moved the Impulse lever into what I believe is the position used to start the engine.


Didn't realize how large the spark plugs are on this big 4 cyl. Takes a 15/16 socket to remove them.
 

rwood64083

Registered
Pulled a couple plugs to give a look at the condition.
Found out someone has installed different brands of plugs in 3 of the 4 holes.

This is what's in #4 cyl.



#3 cyl spark plug has no identification on it. Also has a different porcelain design than the others.


#1 and #2 cylinders have the same plugs.



---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------

Here's where I'm a bit confused. There are two levers mounted to a bracket attached to the steering column. Lever closest to the operator is timing. The other lever... I don't know. It doesn't seem to go to anything and is frozen to the timing lever. Meaning... both levers work simultaneously and don't separate. Did this use to operate something different?



Also, there is a handle that is part a bar just below the timing lever(s). That handle can be pulled out and locked in place but I haven't figured out what it is yet.
 

rwood64083

Registered
Did the best I could last night. Tried making timing and carb adjustments.
Cranked it over for the first time. Spent 30 minutes cranking and adjusting. After the first couple of minutes the engine backfired and residual fuel/fumes were burning in the top of the exhaust manifold. Put the stack on it to help but didn't tighten it up. You'll see in the video I take the stack off to check and make sure on flame is burning in the exhaust manifold.

After about 15 minutes of cranking the engine fired for a couple of revolutions. Was exciting even if it was 2 seconds worth. Going back out this afternoon and giving it another shot.

The video is cut down from 23 minutes to 1min 45sec. Just wanted to show you guys when the engine started to sound like it was going to fire (about the 1min 10sec mark.

Also made sure my thumbs weren't wrapped around the handle when cranking. Sure did give me a workout. Quite positive my posture isn't the best when doing this. Been deaing with many internal injuries from a roadside bomb in Iraq 10 years ago, not to mention I turn 50 next week. Regardless, this old iron will be running again.

Suggestions and advice are openly welcome.

Click center of picture below.
 

Russ Hamm

Subscriber
Age
61
Last Subscription Date
10/12/2024
Did you remove the valve cover to see if you had any stuck valves? A tight or sticking exhaust valve will sure make you backfire, possibly fire on only one or two.
Do you have an opertors manual? I or someone else could fix you up with a copy or you can buy copies, these would help you out a lot on timing and such.
The two levers are for the original governor and spark adjustments, yours has been converted to the push/pull throttle lever and variable speed governor like many were. Sometimes a questionable float can flood you out, in the meantime sometimes we will fill the carb and then shut the gas off for atarting until we get the float replced or sealed, then if it takes off we turn the gas on to run it in as long as it will.
You may not have another tractor to belt start with, thats what we do first off many times, then we can adjust and run in, after that they often crank start a lot easier. If you pull start, make sure your clutch is disengaging, i can tell you firsthand how important that is.:D
Or, make sure you can kill the spark when you need to, those big carbs can run a long time on a bowl of gas after shutdown.
 

Titan1020

Registered
Last Subscription Date
10/03/2016
Do yourself a big favor and go to NAPA and get a set of Autolite 3076 plugs. They are the correct ones for this tractor. Old plugs can give you a very hard time starting.
 

Ric Murphy

Registered
As Russ said the second lever was originally throttle. Mine also has been converted to a push/pull throttle which I have not seen before. I've been wondering how to convert mine back. Did the governor have to be changed also. Unfortunately when someone changed mine they drilled a hole right thru the center of the serial number plate to allow the linkage to pass thru the tank support. I've always used Champion W14 plugs in the older IH tractors. Seem to work ok but not cheap
Ric
 
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