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McDonald Imperial Super-Diesel Engine

cobbadog

Registered
Well here we go on a long journy with this one. I managed to load my preferred engine onto the tractors carry-all which made for power steering on the Cropmaster which was different and got it up under the carport which is where it will be stripped down and cleaned. I have found the good injector as the original was broken off by someone else many years ago and it took me over a year to find the replacement but at least it is here. I quickly had a look at what I think are all the parts I have and found parts that I don't know what they are as yet but in time with help from you guys I will find a place to fit them.
Now I do have a booklet called "Instruction Book for erecting and running Imperial Super -Diesel Engines" It has 35 pages of information but it is not a workshop manual that shows you what parts belong where.

Is there a workshop manual for the SE engine?
 

Ray Freeman

Registered
I have an SE and searched for a workshop manual without any luck. Mine is complete ready to run except the injector has been fooled with. I also have a couple of SPI's dismantled on a pallet I scored at an auction. A schematic would be handy for those but I'll likely just have to start putting them together,trial and error.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Well first we had to drag the best of two evils out from under the house, load it onto the carry-all and get it up under the carport. As you can see this is the broken injector. 20200313_104117.jpg20200313_113801.jpg20200313_145644.jpg
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Hey Cobba
Looks like you have been taken the goat for a walk again
and David looks all polished up 😁 unlike the Imperial.
Following this is driving me to get home and get the IHC M complete and going, so only got to convince the other half that 40 odd days away from home it's time to stop fishing and go home. So far from 10 outing we have caught 16 flathead, 21 whiting and 7 bream, getting abit sick of eating fish ( not really). Looks like the weather is going to finally drive us back home with rain due for the next 4-5 days.
Keep up the good work, see ya soon
Cheers Dobbo
 

cobbadog

Registered
I have to keep trying any of tricks to get it off now. I will also try to partly collapse what I can of the old key. If I start to see some progress I can actually fit a 3 point puller and put a bit of weight on it too but not before the key starts to move out or the flywheel in towards the engine.
I can feel more strong words coming up, I think.
More 'Goating Work' required again tomorrow too.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Today I made up a tool to help flog the flywheel inwards after I get some heat into and around the hub of the flywheel. A piece of 3" water pipe with a handle attached and heavy bit of flat bar welded to the back end of it for the BFH can do it's job.
Started to heat up using my only source of heat a "B" size burner on a length of hose from the LPG bottle. I got comfy on an upturned 20ltr oil drum and started heating up. This is a slow process but then it started pissing down rain and guess where the water leak is, right above me. So I blew the whistle and went on with another job. Here is a pic of the good injector but needs a bloody good cleaning.
As for these injectors where the original one broke off is there suppose to be an "O" ring or something there or is the a copper washer to be fitted under the injector where it seats?
I have had a very kind offer of some oxy if required so time will tell.20200313_164721.jpg
 
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Scotty 2

Registered
As for these injectors where the original one broke off is there suppose to be an "O" ring or something there or is the a copper washer to be fitted under the injector where it seats?
Hello Cobba
In that link I posted, look at the picture of the CE type injector and part N. A copper or asbestos type washer. More like copper I'd hazard a guess.
Cheers :)
 

eddie bedwell

Registered
Hi Team,
from my SE CE McDonald Hand Book--surprised that Plough Book Sales does not have at least a photocopy of them.

The gasket/washer in question has been a Copper Asbestos type washer in any that I have encountered.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
McDonald Se Ce Injector.jpg
 

cobbadog

Registered
Been in contact with Stephen from Plough Book Sales and the only info he has ever had is this instruction booklet, but thanks for bringing it to my attention as this is how we find things out.
Well I went around to the opposite side yesterday and managed to do almost the exact same thing. Head broke off the gibb key and so far I have successfully drilled a 3/16" hole the key but not all the way through. After a lot of scratching around I actually found that the keyway in the flywheel goes all the way through but, it does not on the crankshaft. The crankshaft has a small step down in size where the back of the flywheel sits and you can only just see the groove in the shaft tapering off to nothing. This will make it impossible to try to knock the flywheel in towards the engine so that idea is now dealt with. Still waiting for the 10lb slide hammer to arrive and I have started to make an adaptor to use once it is here.
So I decided to also look at the oil strainer which didn't do too much straining like this. As rough as the soldering job looks it actually has taken to the stainless steel wire and bonded in place. At least this is done, phew. :clap:
 

Attachments

eddie bedwell

Registered
Hi cobbadog,
here is a link to one of Shopdog Sam's videos on pulling headless gibhead keys--only works if you have an arc welder.

A search on here should find many threads on methods of extraction.


Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
 

cobbadog

Registered
That Shopdog sam is a real gem and has posted so many useful hints and tips. Shame on me for not thinking of him and his talents. Thanks for reminding me.
 

Combustor

Registered
Key removal is quite do-able if you have a piece of spare key the same section as the original, and some of the keyway in the shaft exposed outside the flywheel. If necessary, drill into the top of the key almost against the flywheel then drive a chisel under the end of it and snap it out. Then find a friend with a lathe, or carefully set up a good drill press.
On the end section of your spare piece of key, scribe the exact center of it, punch mark it and set it up to drill through its length using a drill that is a few sizes smaller than the key thickness, Clamp this guide piece in the exposed keyway and use the same size drill to bore the length of the stuck key.
Discard the guide and select a drill the same size as the key thickness or one size smaller to drill through its length. The key will now easily collapse. If needed, place a block of wood etc, under the crankpin and rock the flywheel against it. The remains of the key will now fall out. Fairly sure I picked up this method here on Smokstak a few years ago. Got me out of trouble a few times since. Regards,
Combustor.
 

Darryl

Registered
I never have a problem With keys by cutting the hex off a 3/8 “ Or 1/2” ht bolt then grind a point on it and weld it to the gib key, then screw on a slide hammer and pull it out. The weld heat helps.
 
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