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McDonald Imperial Super-Diesel Engine

cobbadog

Registered
I had a bit of time to play today and started with the big bunsen burner to heat up the cast housing and maybe help release more crap or even the needle. It proved to be interesting with a bit of heat soon it ignited some crap inside the cap and a pair of flames were shooting out. It burnt for a while and at the same time smoke was coming out the top end like a chimney. I have made a tool to lightly drive onto the top of the needle which in turns grips it and I hoped it would then lift the needle out, not yet. But I did find what appeared to be grease inside now after the heat and burn out. It has not let go as yet but tomorrow is another day as a customer rang me and was in the deep poo stuff again so he turned up and I had to fix his problems and that was the end of play time.
 

cobbadog

Registered
To try to remove the bottom needle from the body I made this tool up. It is a piece of 3/8" rod drilled to being undersize to the top of the needle and a slot cut in it. In theory I should be able to lightly tap the tool onto the needle and twist and lift out the stuck needle, hasn't happened yet and the next post will show why. 20200509_083052.jpg20200509_083203.jpg
 

cobbadog

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I did like the flame that came out the bottom but when I turned it arse up and really got into it with the heat it went off like a flame thrower. By the time I got the camera out it had backed off to being this sedate little display. Once it had burnt out I continued to get serious with the heat and then I found the lump of crap that fell out. Once cooled I sat it on top to take the pic.
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cobbadog

Registered
Hi Jarrod, the needle in post 122 is the one that is stuck inside the cup. Well that one is out of the broken injector that also has the cup stuck on. Hopfully I will get the cap off the broken injector to get a better idea of what is goung on inside. The injector I want to use has the cup held on with a raised head screw that even after some brisk attempts with an impact driver so far is not undoing only distorting the slot.
The spare one is hel in place with a smaller screw that is well embedded down the hole and will have to be drilled out then an attempt at removing the cup from the broken body.
Got held up once again with work crap today so hopefully I can have a real go at it tomorrow.
 

Darryl

Registered
Don’t drill too deep when removing the set screw, it only sits in a dimple on the main body and there’s only a 1/16”th of metal left after the dimple. I once broke through the dimple by tightening the screw, then you can’t stop fuel leaking up past the injector . It’s that screw that you only loosely screw down in assembly so the cup can clamp up and seal when you tighten the two hold down studs.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Did some work on some of the brackets and linkages and mixed and matched the best pieces and used the return spring that was on one of the set of brackets.
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cobbadog

Registered
Next it was time to experiment. Still having no joy with getting the needle out of the bottom of the good injector I went investigating with the broken one. The bottom part of the injector housing was snapped off and stuck firmly in the cap. I lost many hours and brain cells trying to get inside. Tried many different ways of achieving what it almost too all day to get to.
In the end I knew it was to be the death of a cap but I had to learn something today. So eventually into the drill vice and away I went with the 1/4" drill bit, down deeper and deeper until I felt it go through but it was not the cap. So had a look with the good led light and nothing so I kept going and eventually the bloody housing finally let go and collapsed in and it was out.
It was then I found that I had drilled past the bottom of the housing and into a cavity in the cap. So that was the death of that cap but the good one is still intact as this is all about 'learning' I hope. So with the broken bits out of the way a copper washer gasket also fell out confirming I went way too deep and now left with a cap and a far better idea and a new plan to get this bloody needle out.
I forget what letter of the alphabet I'm up with all the plans I have gone through but lets says I might be learning the Greek Alphabet soon. New plan is to drill a nice neat smallish hole dead centre in the cap and push the needle out from that end then weld the small hole up. Any comments on this would be gratefully appreciated before I jump into the fire.
Pictures below are the old cap and is the sacrificial lamb as an aid to the education of a nutter.
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cobbadog

Registered
While I'm waiting for parts to arrive like the ring set which will be on the way soon, I will continue the passive approach to freeing up the needle.
However I did mention to drill a small hole in the cap and push the needle out from that end then weld the hole up, any comments please.
 

Scotty 2

Registered
While I'm waiting for parts to arrive like the ring set which will be on the way soon, I will continue the passive approach to freeing up the needle.
However I did mention to drill a small hole in the cap and push the needle out from that end then weld the hole up, any comments please.
Good chance of distorting the holes. The holes are critical.
Patience Cobba, patience.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Hi Scotty, the holes for the fuel to squirt out of are on the side not in the middle. I will try and take a better pic of the little headache.
 

Scotty 2

Registered
Hi Scotty, the holes for the fuel to squirt out of are on the side not in the middle. I will try and take a better pic of the little headache.
Yep, I know they're on the side but it doesn't take much to distort the housing which may affect the holes. Just my opinion. 🤫
 

hceeB

Registered
Yep, I know they're on the side but it doesn't take much to distort the housing which may affect the holes. Just my opinion. 🤫
Cobba have you tried soaking in molasses, or even boiling in molasses, or boiling in oil? The combination of the molasses or oil and heat may be of help.
Geoff
 

cobbadog

Registered
Only direct heat using the big burner and that got way hotter than a boiling proceedure. I will look at molasses and electrolysis as well but so far none of the tricks are working so will continue all options as they turn up. By now there can't be very much crap inside there as lumps of grease like stuff came out when it was hot then that stuff set hard then the next day it cumbled to dust, bloody strange stuff.
 

cobbadog

Registered
To day I decided while waiting for the electrolysis to hopefully work on the injectors bottom needle I started to make a new pin for the rocker arm to pivot on and add a better oil hole for lube by cutting a groove in the shaft and boring an oil hole halfway down the pin and then cross drilling it. I also reground the end of the rocker arm where it meets the valve stem. Next is the pivoting ball, this will explain itself in the future pics but I may need to make another push rod from the cam follower through the pivot ball to the rocker arm. You will notice the old brazing repair from long ago but this one is better than the other one I have to choose from so this is it.
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cobbadog

Registered
Played around with the linkages today cleaning up the parts and making a special collar to hold the fork from another linkage that operates the injector. I think it is all ready to go together when more parts arrive and try to work out how to adjust it all.
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asw20

Registered
Try to get that primer to you this week. Sorry, been flat out on the new service run and family stuff all this weekend. Don't stress; it's coming!

Jarrod.
 
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