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McDonald Imperial Super-Diesel Engine

cobbadog

Registered
Not stressed at this end Jarrod, I still have thing to keep me occupied and thinking like today's efforts. It is still enjoyable and I do look forward to the challenge of getting it running one day. When it comes time to set up the linkages, you might get a phone call.
 

cobbadog

Registered
So as I am waiting for parts and my head keeps jumping from one job to another this was play time for today. Straight from the "why not" department and it will come in handy later on for the air cleaner that I have to make. Never tried doing this before and for a first attempt it is ok so this will be it, rough n ready. Tried a few ways to get the little punch to work and in the end I simply cut the sheet metal with the 1mm cutting disc then introduced the punch while holding the sheet metal in place with some flat bar iron and clamps. 20200518_141728.jpg20200518_141744.jpg20200518_143038.jpg
 

Scotty 2

Registered
Hey Cobba,
I've been thinking about your stuck injector. When you chuck it in the electrolysis tank see if you can put the wire onto the little injector bit that you can't get out. This will make the current run through the stuck bit to get to the biggest surface area item ie cup with 2 holes. And if possible use high current, 15-20 A if possible.

If you want to make it easier to make your louvers, grab a Jenny and Swag or, as the US people say, bead roller.
Cheers Scott
PS: A project?

 

cobbadog

Registered
Hey Scotty, it has been under the charging process for the last couple of days but off over night. At the moment I have one lead connected to the body of the injector. YOur idea of connecting it to the needle is a ripper but it is down deep inside, then my feeble grey matter remembered that little grabber I made that attaches to the top of the needle. So next time I pass that way I will amke the changes.
If I had Pa's old fly press I could make a proper die set up and do them but since I don't have it and I only wanted to knock a couple out just for fun I made this primitive punch. I also want the 3' wide hand rollers he once had too but they were stolen by Haire n Forbes in Westmead. I'm not thinking of putting any in any of our cars or Lorry so it's safe where it is for now.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Will have another play with the air cleaner housing tomorrow after work. Also got the electrolysis set up with the positive connected to the needle so will switch that on tomorrow as well.
 

Scotty 2

Registered
Will have another play with the air cleaner housing tomorrow after work. Also got the electrolysis set up with the positive connected to the needle so will switch that on tomorrow as well.
Wrong way around Cobba. Negative wire into the needle. If possible also use high current. 10-15A or higher.
I use dry soda ash from the pool shop. It seems to work a lot better then new washing soda or other stuff people use. Clean anodes is a must.

 
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cobbadog

Registered
To continue with the "have a go ya mug" attitude and after being inspired by Ian Rowsal of Custom Garage I decide to have a go at this today. Found a couple of pieces of timber and cut the shape out then made a sheet metal sandwich and used a hammer to dress the edge over to make the lid. It surprised me that it worked so this is my new lid and tomorrow I will attach it to the louvre sided section I made the other day.20200522_134217.jpg20200522_134252.jpg20200522_135413.jpg
 

cobbadog

Registered
Going into town tomorrow Scotty to buy some soda ash and try again with the charging of particles in the tank (ice cream container).
Like Dobbo our supplier of rings is waiting for his delivery from N.Z. who have gone back to work so maybe they will arrive soon. I have also asked the same supplier about a pair of valves for the McDonald and have sent him some sizes and hopefully he has some blanks to suit. Old valve stems are showing a heap of wear so if some good valves can be had this will help the engine when it's time to run. Cam gear should be ready so I will give him a call tomorrow as well then I have to consider making the fuel tank along the same lines as the air cleaner but I will try to be not as rough this time, but it does add character.
 

hceeB

Registered
Going into town tomorrow Scotty to buy some soda ash and try again with the charging of particles in the tank (ice cream container).
Like Dobbo our supplier of rings is waiting for his delivery from N.Z. who have gone back to work so maybe they will arrive soon. I have also asked the same supplier about a pair of valves for the McDonald and have sent him some sizes and hopefully he has some blanks to suit. Old valve stems are showing a heap of wear so if some good valves can be had this will help the engine when it's time to run. Cam gear should be ready so I will give him a call tomorrow as well then I have to consider making the fuel tank along the same lines as the air cleaner but I will try to be not as rough this time, but it does add character.
Cobbadog, washing soda from the supermarket is what you want at Coles $4.00 a 1 kg bag (Lectric washing soda) is its actual name on the bag, I will attach a file re electrolysis for rust removal good reading.

Geoff.
 

Attachments

isandian

Registered
You will most likely get stainless steel valve blanks. I have found the main thing is getting the right stem diameter and length or longer, and head diameter larger than required. Then you have to cut the stem length and machine in the retaining method, and turn the head diameter to the correct size. I sometimes struggle with stainless and usually take them to an expert to machine.
 

Ray Freeman

Registered
You can often get away with a common valve. When I did a KA Cooper I used Commodore V6 valves. I reamed the guides slightly oversize and recut the seats to suit. Cut to length and drilled a hole through the stem for the retaining pin.
 
Stainless needs to be in a bronze guide, yes you can play around with common valves and they will be cheaper to ream , cheaper to buy etc
You can alter the heads too.
Less work you have to do the cheaper it is obviously.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Thanks to all your ideas and suggestions. It appears that the head already has a brass/bronze looking valve guides and to find some over sized valve stems would be a bonus. As the engine is a Rally engine type of metal in the valve isn't an issue I don't think but find one long bugger might be fun. I just might take the angle grinder down to the spare engine and remove the rusty head nuts so the head can be removed and see what condition they are in. Cross drilling the stem sounds the way to go as the original clip is simply a piece of metal almost horseshoe shaped that holds the cap in place and when fitted the cap is lifted to hold the small clip in place.
All this has been helpful. Also changed the electrolysis set up to dry soda ash as suggested and it gets busy producing lots of tiny bubbles. The molasses I was using did have an effect on the anode. The piece of flat bar iron has been eaten away and has produced a tapered knife like edge on the downward facing side. So although it has been running around 3 hours so far there has been no progress with the needle becomming loose but I will flick it back on tomorrow and then at last go and pick up the cam gear. after being welded.
 
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