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Miller bluestar 2E tecumseh OH160

Jakeracefox

Registered
Just got a Miller bluestar 2e that needs a starter solenoid. It has a tecumseh oh160 I am curious what solenoid I need to get and what wires hook on what post I have these wires #20 that goes to main board #21 that goes to ignition switch and #22 goes to start switch. Then it has the hot batt cable and cable that goes to the starter. So need to know what coil to buy and what wires hook up to what post. Thanks for any help in advance. Would like to start ordering parts for this ol girl and get her going again. Supposedly all it need to run and weld is a carb rebuild a starter solenoid and a battery. After I know it runs and weld I’m going to re paint the sheet metal and get a new face plate. It also needs a new Double 110 outlet can any outlet be used for that?
 

Jakeracefox

Registered
Yes I’ve looked that over and still don’t understand where the idle board hooks up

---------- Post added at 06:23:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:14:29 PM ----------

I still don’t understand where the 3 small wires go 20,21,22 I don’t want to fry something hooking it up wrong
 

dkamp

eMail NOT Working
Come on guys someone must have one of these welders and know what I need to get
Patience, Jake- We don't all get around to looking through all the postings constantly.

I have a BlueStar 2E... it's a beastly-great welder considering a one-lung 16hp thumping away.

Now, I'm about 400 miles from home, and won't be home for about five days, and mine is mounted inside a covered, forkliftable hut that I'd hafta extract it from in order to remove the cover and look it over, but I'm certain that starter solenoid can be swapped out with any solenoid that you can find... there's nothing special about what it's doing.

The receptacle is nothing unusual, just a good-quality heavy-duty unit.

You'll HAVE to look up the PROPER manual. Go to MillerWelds link (above) and have your machine's SERIAL NUMBER in hand... as there's about 15 different iterations of the BlueStar 2E.

I pulled up MY unit, and it's this one:
https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O424C_MIL.pdf

On page 27, it clearly shows wire 20 and 21 going to CR1, which is the starter solenoid's main contact. 21 goes to the BATTERY side (provides power for the machine's startup circuit, and charging power's path back to the battery) and 20 is on the downstream side (to trigger the automatic idle control system for startup).

Notice wire 22 over on the left side- that's going a round circle marked CR1... that's the solenoid's COIL... apply 12v to it, and the coil pulls in the shorting bar to activate the starter.

See the wire coming south out of the round circle? That's indicating that the other end of the solenoid coil is GROUNDED. whatever solenoid you use, must have one side grounded. A lawn-tractor solenoid might be internally grounded, and it may have two terminals... if the latter, then put wire 22 on one terminal, and tie the other terminal to ground.
 

Jakeracefox

Registered
Patience, Jake- We don't all get around to looking through all the postings constantly.

I have a BlueStar 2E... it's a beastly-great welder considering a one-lung 16hp thumping away.

Now, I'm about 400 miles from home, and won't be home for about five days, and mine is mounted inside a covered, forkliftable hut that I'd hafta extract it from in order to remove the cover and look it over, but I'm certain that starter solenoid can be swapped out with any solenoid that you can find... there's nothing special about what it's doing.

The receptacle is nothing unusual, just a good-quality heavy-duty unit.

You'll HAVE to look up the PROPER manual. Go to MillerWelds link (above) and have your machine's SERIAL NUMBER in hand... as there's about 15 different iterations of the BlueStar 2E.

I pulled up MY unit, and it's this one:
https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O424C_MIL.pdf

On page 27, it clearly shows wire 20 and 21 going to CR1, which is the starter solenoid's main contact. 21 goes to the BATTERY side (provides power for the machine's startup circuit, and charging power's path back to the battery) and 20 is on the downstream side (to trigger the automatic idle control system for startup).

Notice wire 22 over on the left side- that's going a round circle marked CR1... that's the solenoid's COIL... apply 12v to it, and the coil pulls in the shorting bar to activate the starter.

See the wire coming south out of the round circle? That's indicating that the other end of the solenoid coil is GROUNDED. whatever solenoid you use, must have one side grounded. A lawn-tractor solenoid might be internally grounded, and it may have two terminals... if the latter, then put wire 22 on one terminal, and tie the other terminal to ground.
Ok so what I got for a solenoid is a Briggs and Stratton 4 pole solenoid. I don’t understand electrical print. But know that I know that one of these poles is negative it makes a little more sense to me. Ok so I looked at both prints for my welder and yours that part is exactly the same. So my batt cable and #21 go on together on big post on left of solenoid then starter side cable and 20 go together on big post on right then 22 on small right post ground on small left post? Hope that makes sense to you? I think I’m understanding your explanation right

---------- Post added at 10:55:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:54:04 PM ----------

I appreciate the help and explanation too bud thank you
 

Jakeracefox

Registered
Ok I got that figured out all hooked up and working. Got the carb cleaned and new muffler on an it runs pretty good (needs a bit of fine tuning) my problem now is it has no 110 power when switch is on power and when switched to weld it will just spark a little bit not even enough to stick a rod. I cleaned of the copper bands that the brushes are in contact with and it sparks a little brighter but still no power when switched to power. I’ve done a little research and I am thinking it’s either the switch or the rectifier (SR1). Anyone have any ideas? I’m hoping it’s something simple as my wife said not to buy it because it was probably junk I am hoping to prove her wrong!
 

dalmatiangirl61

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Your manual, I think https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O424A_MIL.pdf

I'm better with hands-on diagnostics. As for welding current, I would check the contacts in Selector switch and on amperage rheostat, might need some cleaning. Beyond that I see some capacitors (always suspect) and diodes. Do you have a good voltmeter? Know how to use it? I'd start checking everything that can be checked, its a process of elimination. If you don't know how to check something, google it, or youtube search it, there are some great tutorials.

Or wait for Dave to come back, he is pretty sharp.
 

Jakeracefox

Registered
Yup that’s the manual I did some looking around and found some info that leads me to believe it is that rectifier I mentioned. As far as having a meter I don’t have one and definitely have no idea how to use it. Hell I didn’t even know how to hook up a solenoid at first hahahaha. I could probably get one and watch some videos on it. I did clean the copper strips the brushes contact and seemed to make a little difference in the strength of the spark but still no weld or power and yes my switch was in the right location while testing welding and the outlet. If something is explained to me I can usually get the grasp of it but electrical wiring and stuff has always intimidated me. I used to not even want to learn but the more I know the better

---------- Post added at 08:53:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50:13 PM ----------

Tomorrow I will clean the contacts I can get too.
 

dkamp

eMail NOT Working
Okay, so FIRST, you need to know how it's SUPPOSED to operate.

When you start it, with the switch in AUTO IDLE, and in POWER, the machine will run at a 'slow' speed.

Turn the output knob to full. You will have 120v 60 cycle power at the power receptacle. It will NOT weld, and will not change speed. Don't try to use the POWER mode with output knob at any lower setting... you'll be disappointed with the output, as your voltage will be much less than expected.


When you switch to WELD mode, and you scratch the rod to your workpiece, the engine will throttle up. After running for about 10 seconds with no load, it will idle back down.

Flip the AUTO IDLE switch off, it will run at full speed during welding. If you switch to POWER mode, it will idle down.

If you attempt to draw power from the receptacle when welding, you will find that the voltage is higher, and line frequency is substantially higher than 60hz. A 'universal motor' (like a 4" grinder) will run just fine (they have brushes, and don't care about frequency of AC much), or if you're running lights, you'll get power, but it'll eventually roast 'em. Switch to the 'power while welding' to keep the voltage in a reasonable range.

If you're not getting substantial welding output, move the AC/DC STRAIGHT/DC REVERSE to AC and check for output. If you get substantial output in AC, but not in DC, then there's a problem with the rectifiers in the output circuit.

If you're getting same regardless, then check the FINE ADJUSTMENT potentiometer, it may be dirty, or burned out, or disconnected.

If your unit is AC only, then it has a RANGE switch, rather than an AC/DC/Reverse selector... the contacts probably need a little cleaning.

Oh, and one thing you should NEVER assume... never assume your welding leads, or terminations, or clamp, or electrode holder, are making good contact. If you're getting limited output, shorting the leads for about 10 seconds will warm up any place that has a marginal connection... unshort the leads, shut the machine down, and start feeling the wires and connections... if a conductor is hot, it's not (not much of a conductor). Fix it!
 

Ed Stoller

Subscriber
Age
80
Last Subscription Date
07/11/2019
I make replacement ignitions for the Tecumseh OH160 if you ever need one. Ed Stoller
 
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