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Model Combine and Tractor Project

Tad Wicks

Registered
These are pics of the model combine I am building.All my own design. It will house the ignition system for the tractor that will be pulling it. You can see a rear wheel and one cylinder of the tractor in one picture.The engine has a .625 bore X .750 stroke. The header (reel,knife,and draper) will be functional by roller chain ground drive off the left-hand main wheel through the driveline, u-joints and right angle drive pictured, all handmade, and has a 7 inch cut. All the rivets are real, they are .035 brads that have been reshaped, the angle and channel iron have been milled from bar stock, the main frame channel iron is 1/2 inch wide, the hitch is hollow for the sparkplug wire, that is why it does not have the tiller wheel in front. There are 180 3/32 square spoke nuts with a #2-56 thread that had to be hand made from key stock. I have been working on it for almost a year now, hope to have it running in three. Thanks; Tad









More pictures here.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm296/debbiewicks/modelcombine035.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm296/debbiewicks/modelcombine039.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm296/debbiewicks/ujoint02.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm296/debbiewicks/modelcombine0210808.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm296/debbiewicks/modelcombine0220808.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm296/debbiewicks/modelcombine0160808.jpg
 

Forrest A

Registered
Very nice! I am very interested in seeing the tractor construction. My opinion, you can get small ignition setups now so you wouldn't need to hide it in the combine... What shows do you attend? Any chance you could bring this to the NAMES show held in Toledo, OH in April?

Forrest A
 

Tad Wicks

Registered
Hi Forrest A, I use the CH Electronics CDI ignition because it is small and it will work well with points or Hall effects, but not small enough with the battery pack which is 4 AAs. The tractor will be along the lines of the early Rumleys, Averys and Fairbanks and Morse about 1/6 or 1/8 scale I would guess. There is engine, wheels and radiator, no sheet metal, no place to hide things, therefore the combine, and I like my machines to be doing something (check out my hit and miss and pump down the list a ways) The combine will be the perfect hiding spot and it will be functional also (short of a very small sack-sewer) and I will be able to put it on the floor, turn it loose and watch it go. The engine was going to be a stand up twin but what I have made is a bit to large in scale so I might go to a single or an horizontally opposed, not sure yet. Fairbanks and Morse built a large single tractor with a 10 inch bore and a 16 in stroke. I can start another thread on the tractor and engine one day. I will probably never make it to NAMES but I have showed (shown?? showded?? hahaha) at the Cabin Fever- Men Metal Machines expo in Visalia CA. and the WEME in Vallejo CA. and the Pioneer Day festivities in Paso Robles CA. Thanks for the response. Tad
 

Steve Kunz

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Very nice work!
I would also like to see some pictures of the tractor and engine.
Steve
 

James Ashmore

Registered
That is a great looking model. I don't suppose ya made a set of drawings for that?? I always wanted to make something like that but don't have enough talent to just free lance it, need a set of prints to follow. Again great job on that.
 

Tad Wicks

Registered
Hi James, sorry, but I have no drawings, it was all done by guess and by golly and by eyeball, of course, that does't mean that it can't be put to paper one day. I will probably have to finish it first, if we all live that long.The hardest part of this project has been the riveting, they are all functional, that is how it is held together and it took a long time to develope the tooling to make it look right. They are only .035 in diameter and they are all swedged.
Steve; The tractor is not far enough along to post pictures, I can show the wheels and a partially completed engine that I don't think that I am going to use now. I haven't worked on either for some time now, I have had other projects.

http://www.thecombineforum.com/index.cgi?board=tractors&action=display&thread=10538

I don't like to work in the shop when it is cold, I hope to start back on it when it warms up a bit, writing about it kinda gets me thinking that I should do somemore on it. I have done some on the combine since the pictures were taken, the bellcrank and pitman for the knife drive,the header lift and sack chute are now complete.Thanks; Tad
 

ronm

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Now you'll have to grow some "dwarf" wheat...;)
 

Tad Wicks

Registered
I finally decided on what the engine on the tractor is going to be. Last week I got a bit enthused and this is what I came up with. The wheels have been done for some time, the engine is far enough along to do a bit of mock-up so that you might see what I have in mind, it is .75X.75 bore and stroke 90 degree Vee, liquid cooled, something unheard of in the real tractor world. Just for reference the main frame channel is .5625 wide. The wheels were tough with well over 100 #3square nuts, along with spokes and cleats that had to be made and then the cleats are riveted and held in place by the spokes (I know, the wheels are backwards:bonk:) I had to make two sets of dies (left and right) to form the cleats after they were machined out of square stock, not only do they curve but they have to twist as well to fit the rim . The cylinders are cast iron ported for coolant and the heads are ready for guides Thanks Tad











 

OTTO-Sawyer

Subscriber
Age
57
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
:cool: Cool ! :cool:


A Big V-Twin Harley Davidson Prairie Tractor
:cool: (converted to water cooled like Preston Tucker did when he put the helicopter engines in his cars in 1948)

Have a color scheme in mind for it ? (maybe black & orange with a little chrome???;))
 

gbritnell

Registered
Man that's quite a unique project. Excellent work on the build. It 's too bad you couldn't have found stock for the frame instead of having to cut it out of solid.
gbritnell
 

Tad Wicks

Registered
Hi John, the header is 7 inches, the overall width of the machine is about double that, the combine wheels are 3 inches, the tractor's big wheels are 5 inches. I think the tractor is going to be a bit big for the combine but that is OK, I wanted the combine to be about 8-10 foot cut in real size and the tractors of the day were quite large for their horsepower (Rumley, Altman Taylor, Russell, Titan, F&M) so it should look close to correct working at about an inch to the foot 1/12-1/16 give or take.
Otto Sawyer, I don't like my models painted, I like to see the shineys, whether it is brass,copper or steel. If it is painted you could not tell it from Chinese die cast, plus when it is this small getting the paint to go on properly without covering up detail is a whole different problem. The combine would have been all galvanized in real size anyway. I liked the idea of the v-twin but because it will fit in the footprint of a single and I wanted a stand up twin but it was too wide, I went 90 degree instead of 45 so I could put the cam in the middle of the engine instead of on the side. The fun part is I don't know of any tractor company that used a v-twin, so many things in that day were tried and failed, there was some very unusual stuff so I figured this would fit right in.
gbritnell, being able to find correct angle and channel stock would have saved so much time and effort on both the combine and the tractor, but I guess having to make it is what the whole thing is about. Thanks Guys Tad
 

Forrest A

Registered
After seeing the tractor pics I can tell you and I think alike. It is one thing to copy something that exists (,any one can do that). It is a bigger thing to design something from scratch (,way fewer people can do that)! Nice work! I will have to make the trek out west when it goes on display!

Where did you get the "c" frame channel?

I can't wait to see the valve tappet arrangement.

I am working on two v-twins right now. The crank cases were a real bummer being made from several parts. My motors are more like the Harley arrangment as the cylinders are 45 deg. not 90 deg.

Keep the pictures coming.

Forrest A
 

Tad Wicks

Registered
Hi Forrest A

on your v engines, are the cases split in half? if so you must have a two or three piece crank and fork and blade rods like the Indian and Harley. I opted for something a little different, I used a single piece crank and I haven't decided on the rods yet, they are on a common jurnal (the cylinders share a common centerline)but I think they are going to be either offset or rod and knuckle much like that in a radial engine, all held in by the endplate/main bearing but unlike the radial it will have a straight line cam, fork and blade rods with bolt-on caps might be quite a challenge at this scale. I have tried making three piece cranks for a tiny hit or miss, the flywheels really show and amplify any flaw in assembling the crank, it was just too hard to get everything perfectly straight with ''0.00'' runout.
All the angle, channel and I-beam was cut from solid stock, I sharpened cutters to copy channel iron with the radiused (radiuseded ??????:)) inside corners along with the tapering flanges, but is so small you can not see it so I ended up using straight 4-flute cutters with raidiused corners, it is very hard to tell the difference. I had to build a jig to hold the stock so that it can be milled to dimensions, cutting .1875 or .250 square to angle and keep it straight is a little difficult in any length. I appreciate your intrest; Tad
 

Tad Wicks

Registered
I forgot to say that, the frame rails on the tractor when done will be turned flanges out and a step cut in the engine block on both sides for support when removing all the excess material and the engine mounting bolts will go through the channel into the block. The engine is now sitting on the bolts with the flanges turned in. Thanks Again Tad
 

Tad Wicks

Registered
A few more pixs with the flywheels on, two different sizes, trying to decide which one I liked better, I am slanted towards the taller narrow one but maybe the engine will decide for itself later on, what do you think on the flywheels?? The frame rails are now on top of the rear axle to raise things up a bit just to see.







 

NAR

Subscriber
Age
40
Last Subscription Date
01/09/2019
Hi Tad, It's looking really neat & you do nice work. I don't know what flywheel I'd use, they both look good. Maybe just keep it like it is; gives it character.

I'm with you on not painting. It looks perfect.

Nice job & looking forward to seeing more pics through the project.

-Nick
 

Forrest A

Registered
I like the taller flywheels, makes it look tougher (and will tend to have more inertia making the engine run better).

I am making the nested connecting rods. My crank is a press together. There are ways to get things lined up in the end, I've made several "put together cranks", had the same issues you state but learned how to align them. I'll leave the needle bearings out:brows:.

I need to make 1/2" frame rails for a couple 1/16 scale F Oil Pulls I am building. Your frame rails look great! After trying to find it and striking out I had resigned myself to just milling it out ouf solid too...

What type of differential are you making? Planetary? Bevel gear? Ball bearing?

Forrest A
 

Tad Wicks

Registered
Forrest A

Maybe I can save you a bit of time when cutting you channels. I used a piece of 2x3 angle iron,(the heavier the better) clamped it square and true in the mill vise, surfaced it, then cut grooves with end mills the size of the iron I wanted to work about .030-.040. deep,(it doesn't really matter on channel but it does on angle) just enough to hold it in line, with the heavier cuts to be made closer to the web of the angle, then clamp it with the vise grip clamps every three inches or so, I have power feed so it is just a matter of adding and removing clamps as the work moves along, always add a clamp before removing one, it will show up in the channel if you don't, plus that gives it a chance for chips to get under it. I bought the cheap Chinese clamps at Harbor freight for about five bucks, they work OK for this. You can add a piece of square stock in the cut part to clamp on. When cutting angle irons, the sharper the tool the better, .250 angel will come out with a huge bow in it, if I need smaller angle than that I take the .250 and mill the legs down. For .5 channel inside cut I believe I used a .3125 4 flute cutter with .045 radius, actually I think later on I used a regular mill, the radius can't be seen anyway.
I don't know yet what I am going to do for a differential on the tractor, I might just not, I look at that much like having a reverse, with the combine on behind, who's is going to back it up? it all depends on the time frame and if I feel like fussing with it. If I ever get the engine running in this lifetime, I will consider that a milestone.:D:D


 
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