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My first project: Briggs and Stratton 4

CycleKartBow

Registered
Thank you for the information on the gasket material.

Well, persistence paid off.

Tonight, I hooked up the flywheel puller, gave the extension on the puller a couple of calibrated whacks with a ball peen hammer, and popped the flywheel off with no drama.

There was quite of bit of gunk on the inside rim of he flywheel, so I am happy I pulled it to clean it up. The gunk was cleaned up with some elbow grease, a brass wire brush, and to cut the grease/oil, GoJo cream hand cleaner cut through it well, I still need to clean the outside up.

Is it true that the manufacture date is stamped on the magneto pickups arms?

These ones are stamped "L-41" ... which doesn't sound like a date code, but more like a Part Number...

Does anyone know how to remove that plate that is behind the flywheel (Yellow Arrows in photo), mounted to the block?
 

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CycleKartBow

Registered
I have been looking into dating this engine, since it doesn't have a Tag.

The Old Engines Website states:
Q: How do I date my engine when it has no serial number tag?

A: On the back of the flywheel and on the mag plate, there will be two circles, one with a letter and one with two numbers. The two numbers are the last two numbers of the year the PART was made. The letter equals the month the PART was made. A= Jan, B= Feb., ect. This will give an idea of when the engine was made. Parts could be made a couple months before the engine was assembled.

I when and checked my flywheel again...

G 42

July 1942

:D
 

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CycleKartBow

Registered
Don't forget to put some metal on the magnet. I have never had a problem, however hear it can cause the magnet to loose power and the engine spark.
Interesting, never heard that... I'll try to put it back together before that happens

The A has 3/4" pipe exhaust and the B 1" pipe exhaust. Very easy to identify.
Good to know as well.


It is interesting that the HP rating between the A and the B doesn't seam large enough to merit a bigger exhaust port...
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Don't know the difference in displacement, but the larger exhaust port might be due to lower rpm. So each exhaust pulse is larger, but less frequent. IIRC, the Model B, as installed on the Kohler plant, is rated at 1-3/4hp. But runs at only 1800 rpm.

Keith
 
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Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
If you replace the high tension lead, DO NOT solder it to the coil! If you do, you may ruin the coil:rant: Tin (put solder on) about 1/44 to 3/8 inch of the high tension lead. Carefully remove the old lead from the coil, and crimp the new lead over the lug on the coil.
 

CycleKartBow

Registered
I removed the carb and intake, but how do they separate? I removed the connection piece on the bottom, but those little guys don't want to come apart.

Also, what is the trick to remove the breather?

I pulled the crankcase drain and the oil that did run out was quite thin, which makes me think there is some serious sludge left in the bottom of the case.
 

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CycleKartBow

Registered
Well, with a bit of persistence, I was able to remove the magneto mount plate and start cleaning the block and head.

I was able to get the intake manifold off with little drama, but the exhaust pipe is still on there pretty solid and Will not budge...

It was a serious weight loss program but the engine is looking better. I still need to figure out how to pull the breather out.

But it is starting to look more like an engine tonight.
 

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Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Looking good! Curious - did your flywheel have an aluminum key or a steel key?

As I understand it, they all supposed to have aluminum keys. Right now I have two Model ZZs apart, and both had steel keys. One of which likely substantially increased the damage sustained.

Keith
 

SteveK

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
08/26/2019
CKB if the tank seam does not leak I would leave it alone(depending on the scale of resto you are doing). Probably will not leak at this point but trying to straighten it may crack the solder. I assume you know you have to loosen the jamb nut on the exhaust pipe with a punch or chisel before the nipple will unscrew from the head?

I started my collection with a Briggs WI. :)
 

CycleKartBow

Registered
Looking good! Curious - did your flywheel have an aluminum key or a steel key?

As I understand it, they all supposed to have aluminum keys. Right now I have two Model ZZs apart, and both had steel keys. One of which likely substantially increased the damage sustained.

Keith
Hey Kieth,

I didn't stick a magnet to it, but considering the weight of it, it's Steel

CKB if the tank seam does not leak I would leave it alone(depending on the scale of resto you are doing). Probably will not leak at this point but trying to straighten it may crack the solder.
I would like to make it look good as new, after cleaning up the block last night, I found one of the mount tabs on the base of the engine was broke off (before cleaning, I couldn't tell and thought it was odd it only had 3 tabs).

I assume you know you have to loosen the jamb nut on the exhaust pipe with a punch or chisel before the nipple will unscrew from the head?

I did try that with a punch, but it still didn't move. I may attempt the chisel today, I figure the chances of the jamb nut surviving the removal are pretty slim at this point...

I would like to see if I can pop the breather out as well, as there is quite a bit gunk behind the breather I am having trouble cleaning out.

I started my collection with a Briggs WI. :)


---------- Post added at 12:12:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09:45 PM ----------

Man, I wish there was an edit button available for posts...

also, anyone have any trick for cleaning between the head fins?
 

CycleKartBow

Registered
Finally got a chance to get back on this project today.

-New gasket for the valve cover plate cut and installed
-Currently cutting the new gasket for the Magneto Plate.

I want to get the Mag Plate back on today and pretty much get it up to the Carb/Intake and Fuel Tank referb.

I have decided not to paint it, I think for now I'm just going to clean it up and leave it Au naturel ....

I still need to figure out the trick to separating the Carb from the Air cleaner tube... it doesn't want to move...
 

CycleKartBow

Registered
So far so good....

Magneto plate gasket cut and plate installed, points cleaned and set, hi-tension lead cleaned up as well...

Fly wheel cleaned up and partially installed. I need to clean up the starter cup before I install it.

Need to find a replacement B-7 sparkplug, as that is what was in it.... And still figure out the carb and intake being stuck together...
 

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Bill Sherlock

Subscriber
Age
75
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
"Man, I wish there was an edit button available for posts..."

There is if you are a subscriber! Well not a button but you can edit your posts.

Bill
 

CycleKartBow

Registered
Carb and air tube separated!

That took some elbow grease... Now to clean those up.

And, the spark is pretty healthy, even with the very far gone Autolite B-7 plug it came with.....must be I set the points up correctly!
 

EvilDr235

Registered
The model A does not have a removable side cover on the PTO side and the model B does have a removable side cover on the PTO side.
 

CycleKartBow

Registered
Interesting, Thanks.

This one is not removable on the PT side and has a 3/4" exhaust Port.

I didn't get much time to work on it this evening, but I cut a new gasket to replace the one in the carb that looked like dried up shoe leather...

Tomorrow I plain to get the needle valves in and Emulsion tube reinstalled, and put the carb back on.
 
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