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Need some info on a single cylinder Maytag model 92M.

EvilDr235

Registered
Just picked up a single cylinder Maytag model 92M engine at a estate sale. It has the number 384305 stamped on the flywheel. It has a long mounting base on the bottom. American Bosch magneto. A screened opening at the rear of the cylinder that i believe is the carb /mixer ? A lever below that i believe is the choke. My picture person is not here today, so no pictures. It has a Blue Crown spark plug in it. Turns over with good compression. It has a aluminum warning tag on the rear. Has a pull rod to ground the spark plug. This is my first Maytag engine. Any idea as to it's age and horsepower ? The engine is pretty clean. It does have a exhaust pipe bolted to the head. I have not checked the spark yet. The plug wire will need replacing as it is rotted bad.
 

Pat Barrett

Subscriber
Age
71
Last Subscription Date
01/02/2020
I'm sure others will offer additional help. Yes, the thing with the screen in it is the carb. The brass pointer at the bottom is the rich/lean fuel adjustment lever. Below it to the left and right you will see cast in the tank top "OPEN" on the left and "Closed" on the right. The carb is held in place with 4 brass slotted filister head screws. Removing these will let you remove the carg. Brass tube screwed into the bottom of the carb will have a check valve screwed on the end of it. I'm sure it will need cleaning. It uses a tiny stainless disk as the check. The bottom of the check will unscrew from the body. Do this in a clean area on a large rag so you don't loose the stainless disk when you take it apart. It won't hurt to clean the rest of the carb while you are at it. I like to get a 5/8" "Hi Nut" used on vehicle U bolts to screw back on the flywheel nut, after it is removed. This tall nut makes tapping on the crank to get the flywheel loose easier. Run the nut down finger tight and back off a round or round and a half for hammering on to loosen the flywheel. Once off, dress the points like any other points. Also good to use some sewing machine or 3N1 oil on the governor pivot arm and work it some to make sure it is free. If all else looks decent in there, replace all, tighten nut and check for spark. Oh, you may need to take the tank top and engine off the tank so you can give it a good cleaning also. I, like to use a 9/32 drain plug socket to get the square head drain plug out, in the bottom of the tank and replace it with a brass hex head pipe plug. Makes removing it in the future MUCH easier. If I'm going to put the engine in storage, I always drain any gas out, before storing it. Saves a lot of cleaning headache next time you dig it out to run it. 3095 Autolite's work good in these and the 16:1 oil fuel mixture is necessary. Use steel or copper core wire when replacing the plug wire. I'm sure I've not answered all your questions but, it's a start.
 

EvilDr235

Registered
Is the number that is stamped in to the flywheel rim the serial number ? If it is my engine dates to 1929. I have been watching videos on youtube and have found some useful information there.
 

Pat Barrett

Subscriber
Age
71
Last Subscription Date
01/02/2020
Yes, that is the serial no. and if it dated your engine to 39, you've I.D'ed the year.
 

coyote62ny

Registered
the number on the flywheel is the serial number these are good engines they run very well when everything is adjusted right
 

EvilDr235

Registered
Anybody live near Vancouver Washington ? The long base / fuel tank on my model 92M has a mounting ear broke off of it and i don't want to pay for long distance shipping on a eBay item. I would be willing to drive as far North as Seattle and as far South as Eugene to get the part.
 

Pat Barrett

Subscriber
Age
71
Last Subscription Date
01/02/2020
Well, Give us a report on how far you've gotten along on getting toward running. The tank may wait till you find one in your vicinity. Clean the one you have, for now and use it, till you find one. You may have to order some gaskets before you go back up with it, or cut some yourself (I do it, but I hate cutting gaskets) Zach Northway has them and can mail them and they are not that pricey.
 

EvilDr235

Registered
I am going to order a gasket set so i can clean out the gas tank and carb before
firing it up. It sure has good compression I still have it sitting in my van. My helper will be home soon and we will move it to the garage. I spent 43 years picking up heavy stuff and moving it from here to there. My back is toast.i need to pick up some 30 wt. non detergent oil also.
 

Pat Barrett

Subscriber
Age
71
Last Subscription Date
01/02/2020
One other thing I failed to mention in getting the engine running. The stationary points plate is notched. When you get the flywheel off, and go to clean the points, don't remove it, for cleaning, as you'll need a locating tool to get it back to the proper position.
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
You do not nescessarily have to remove the flywheel yo clean the points. A floded piece of 300 grit sand paper placed between the points, when closed will do the job. After sanding, use a piece of clean white business or post card between the points and draw out slightly. open the points and remove paper. do not draw out completely, or you will tear off paper between the points. Once the paper comnes out clean - you are done. if still no spark, after the points are clean, then check the condense. The do not go bad often though. fuel - 16:1 - one cup SAE 30 NON-detergent of TC type W-3 OIO only, to 1 gallon of gas. NO synthetics, no modern lubes. They are too thin for the old plain bronze bearings and con rod. To start, first check fuel pointer. Turn to the right. it should stop parallel to the tank lid - should be closed lightly at a 90 degree from vertical. If it is not in this position, loosen lock nut, turn needle until it is closed, and re-set pointer. it will lock in to the nut shaped hex on the needle itself. To start the engine -fill tank to top with fuel/oil mix. Turn needle 11/2 turn to left. Kick over engine up to 3 times. If engine starts, turn needle to almost straight up and adjust for best running. If the engine does not start, close needle and kick over up to 10 times to clear flooding. If still no start, repeat full open setting start.

If you remove the carb, make sure the check in the pick up is working, and that the fuel line is clear. When installing the new gasket (or re-using the old one if still good), make sure the hole at the bottom of the carb, where it meets the block, is clear and open to the bottom of the port. If the hole is blocked, the engine won't run.

have fun with your new project!
 
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