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Novo Gas Engine 1918 40HP Model EF 4&3/4x6 4 Cylinder

m52a2

Registered
I am rebuilding a 40 Horse Power, 1918, 4 Cylinder, Novo Gas Engine model EF 4-3/4 x 6 (bore & stroke), this engine ran a flower mill here in Michigan.

There are many hurdles to overcome and I welcome the challenge. First, My son and I made skids from heavy channel iron and creosoted beams and mounted the engine to ease moving it from its resting place behind the chicken coop. Then using a 1930 farmall Regular we pulled the 1600 lb engine from behind the chicken coop where it has resided since. I found it resting in a fence row for many many years. Then around the house to the barn.

I winched her under a chain fall to help with the process of repair. We removed the Intake-Exhaust manifold and water manifolds (the carburetor and magneto I removed years ago and were retrieved from their spot in the barn). The Aluminum valve covers and Rocker arms came off next, then the two twin heads. The twin Siamese cylinder assembly's with the 4 pistons securely stuck in place. Then the exposed push-rods and lifter assemblies.

Next we removed the Gibb-Key from the Flywheel on the starting-crank end of the engine and while heating the pulley and using a large puller and heavy hammers and wedges removed one of the flywheels from over the timing gear cover. The timing cover then the Governor assembly and fuel pump and intermediate timing gear were removed.

The Flat Belt Pulley Support and clutch lever and the Double-Disk Clutch were next. After the clutch removal the Huge Flat Belt Pulley slid right off the Crankshaft Extension. Several Bolts and the Second Flywheel and Crankshaft extension came off easily. The Gear type oil pump Bolted over the Camshaft end was removed easily. Now the Camshaft was a chore! Making a Puller Using grade 8 Bolts and a heavy steel plate, with much hammering and breaking of grade 8 bolts we had screwed in to the oil pump mounting holes and more heat applied to the block, the camshaft was gradually extracted from its 3 babbit bearings in the block.

The Block was easily unbolted from the engine base which doubled as the fuel tank and lifted off and moved aside using the chain fall. The 48 inch Crankshaft also had 3 babbit bearings in the block, and after the bearing caps were removed was set aside for cleaning.

The crankshaft and cam were cleaned using Electrolysis in a vinegar salt solution bath and battery charger for about 40 hours as they were heavily Rusted.

The Cast Engine Base-Fuel tank had 4 freeze plugs on top and 2 in the bottom and serves as the engine oil pan. All 6 large freeze plugs were heavily rusted or rusted through and were removed. The fuel tank was cleaned inside with a garden hose and air gun and reaching through the largest underside freeze plug openings with the tank rolled on its side. A 100 watt bulb placed inside dried the fuel tank in about 2 days. The fuel tank was cracked on top and one side and was repaired by relieving the cracks with a groove ground almost through the casting at the full length of the cracks and holes drilled at each end of the "H" shaped upper crack and the strait crack in the one side, then JB Weld(epoxy) applied. The crank and cam shafts were nearly clean after the Electrolysis Bath but needed further wire-brushing and sanding before reinstallation into the block.

To protect the Babbit bearings of reasonably good condition I avoided chemical baths or blasting and cleaned the Block with air powered and electric wire brushes and applied primer.

Making a few shims and wire brushing the crank was installed, then the cam-shaft. Now the oil pump was cleaned and mounted back onto the block exterior over the exposed cam-shaft end with a couple of hand made gaskets.

The Block was mounted back to the cleaned and repaired (fuel tank-oil pan-base assembly,) with two very long Gaskets being made first. There is much more work to do but I am excited to proceed.

I could use help posting pictures as I am unable due to my antiquated computer. I need a volunteer to add them to my thread, I can email them to you for you to post in my thread for me if that is possible? :wave: Thanks, Ed.
 

OrgWayne

Registered
Age
72
Last Subscription Date
03/22/2017
So an off the wall snoopy question! Is that a 2 1/2 or 5 ton military trailer in the background? That engine is really nice!

Wayne:wave:
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
Nice looking engine! One thing though - I would test your gas tank repair. The last time I used JB Weld on a fuel tank, E-10 gas stripped it off faster than you could say SNOT! The gas took it off like paint remover removing a cheap paint. Check it out before you begin re-assembly You might try and seal the JB from the gas with the alcohol resistant tank sealer Lee Pederson sells It will definitely seal the tank. Lee is a sponsor here on the Stak. Keep us posted with your progress!
Andrew
 

m52a2

Registered
Latest progress on the 1918 Novo 40 hp EF 4&3/4x6 4 cylinder gas Engine: repaired and primed oil troughs for connecting rod pickup scoops, repaired with silver solder the broken magneto bracket and primed, repaired and primed timing gear cover, cleaned and primed 6 other covers as well.
 

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Duey C

Subscriber
Age
55
Last Subscription Date
12/08/2019
What a cool project! That's a big engine!
It finally dawned on me how big it is when I looked at the title of your thread again. My largest Twin City tractor engine (so far) is 4-5/8 x 6. Close but no cigar!
Cooler still is that your Novo is a stationary engine... I've never seen one before and if I liked to drive, I'd drive to Michigan just to see that brute!
Thank you for sharing this.
Nice Regular by the way.
 

m52a2

Registered
Sealed the gas tank today with 1 gallon of Petersen's gas tank sealer. The tank looks good inside. I was limited in how much i could slosh it around considering she engine weight partially assembled is likely over 900 lbs. I picked the engine up with the chain fall with the chains positioned to allow the engine to flip upside down to spread the sealer around in the cast iron fuel tank which is the engine base, but it was so hard to flip back up that i resorted to blowing the sealer around inside the tank with an unrestricted air gun with a tube extension. after some of that I drained out the sealer and let the first coat cure awhile, then i poured the sealer back in and blew it around with the air gun some more. after more sloshing from side to side I drained out about a cup of sealant that was just about sludge. then I allowed what wanted to come out to drain and ran an low Wattage heat gun bowing inside the tank for several more hours. it was an all day process as the instructions on the can advise.
Between sealant stages I Freed and repaired the end-play limiters on the timing gear cover designed to limit end play of the Crankshaft and camshaft. cut several gaskets cleaned with a wire brush in the bench grinder a endless number of bolts and the pushed each one into a hole punched in a cardboard box to allow priming the heads. Then installed the Governor assembly, timing gear cover, and the end-cover below the oil pump. The crankshaft seals are felt, easy to make of felt worms bought on ebay a few weeks back. My one day off from work weekly ran out too soon again, and I took the photos after dark.
 

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m52a2

Registered
I repaired the serial plate and separated parts for the sandblaster. The serial plate is attached using No. 8 drive screws. I ordered about a 100 NOS NO.8 drive screws in an old tattered box I found on ebay for about $4.00 but found the standard drive screws have a smaller head than the ones used in 1918 so I ordered a package of 15 from "Blacksmith Bolt Co." to see if theirs have larger heads before installing the repaired serial plate on the governor housing. The water pump was one of the last components I finally dismantled. All of the parts have to be removed from the shaft accept the impeller before pulling the housings from the pump shaft. I boiled the paper drive coupling that fits between the governor drive and water pump in linseed oil for a couple of hours then clamped with a bolt and large washers to allow the linseed oil to set up while under pressure to keep it flat. I pulled the (Governor coupling+fuel pump eccentric+magneto drive coupling from the water pump shaft after drilling out the retainer pins, which appear to be taper pins, and then removed one side of the water pump housing and drove the shaft with the brass impeller from the second half of the water pump housing. All water pump parts are shown in the photo accept for the fuel pump eccentric which is bolted to a threaded rod with other small parts to make it easier for the sandblaster. After cleaning all the water pump parts accept the housings which are going to the sandblaster, I watched the boys mount rear steel on the regular attaching the lugs with square headed bolts from "Blacksmith bolt Co."
 

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Duey C

Subscriber
Age
55
Last Subscription Date
12/08/2019
The Regular looks fantastic!
The Novo looks fantastic too!
Loving your tread!
Duane.
 

m52a2

Registered
While many parts are waiting at the sandblaster for his attention I looked for somewhere I could make progress... I Lifted the engine and cleaned and undercoated the bottom with an asphalt base undercoat to prevent further deterioration from ground moisture. I cut the corners from the skid-rails to match the creosoted wood beams. I mounted the repaired serial plate using the #8 drive screws from "Blacksmith Bolt" and applied a sealer behind the plate to assure no movement would occur later with vibration. You can also see a double lifter support That was broken into four or five pieces that I repaired to reduce machine shop cost that would be needed to reproduce the part.
 

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Duey C

Subscriber
Age
55
Last Subscription Date
12/08/2019
m, what kind of goop did you spray on the underside? I like that notion!
 
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