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Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

StrikeForce

Registered
Its been a real slow winter here project wise. While I am traveling, I am making plans around the piston so once I'm home again I can hit it hard.

I have an inquiry into Niagara Piston to see what options I have for piston rings.

Second part is that I need to remove the wrist pin on the main piston to get the connecting rod out and separated. I want to check all of the bearings and such. Before I get too deep into this, can anyone confirm if the wrist pin is set to only go one direction? I remember by Myrick was and I am thinking this one may be as well? Appreciate any thoughts on this as the last thing I want to do is damage the piston at this point of the project. :bonk:
 

StrikeForce

Registered
Yes, I think you will find the wrist pin is directional. Bill Klein
Bill, I am thinking the side with the notch (right side if I am correct) would be the small side? This is also the side with the locking screw that has the countersunk notch for locking it in.
 

W.P.Klein

Sponsor
Last Subscription Date
01/19/2020
I don't recall which side was smaller but the pin will tap much easier one way than the other. The sound of the tap will be different also. just give it a try. Bill Klein
 

StrikeForce

Registered
I am back at it! :wave: After what seemed like an eternity, I am back working on this project after having to travel for 6 months due to work.

The "tapping" out of the wrist pins didn't seem to be going well and I saw a potential to make things worse. So I stepped up and got a 12 ton press and pressed the wrist pins out. Wow! I am glad I did that. They were in there pretty solid.

Next phase is I have my pistons sitting in the electrolysis tank and I am working a lot of corrosion off the non-invasive way. I also built a custom cylinder hone so hopefully I can get that cleaned up and oiled. My #1 task staring me in the face is getting the water jacket bolts out so I can seal it up and do a water test. I want to make sure I don't have any cylinder wall leaks before I go too far down this road.

So my 2016 winter project has shifted to my 2017 winter project! It waited around long enough, another year wont hurt it. At least its been stored inside the garage all winter.
 

StrikeForce

Registered
Ran into my first hiccup on the project. I was laying out parts and pieces from my "parts box" and it looks like the flywheel wrist pin for the charge cylinder is from a different engine. My connecting rod bearings are 2.5" wide but the slot in the wrist pin is only 2" and it also seems to be too close to the flywheel. I am putting a "milk carton" ad out for a spare but I may need some help with dimensions if I need to make or have one made. That would be a bit of a bummer. :bonk:
 

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StrikeForce

Registered
Well everyone, this has been a long, slow road (as expected) but we're making big steps now. I had to get a pin made to connect the fly wheel to the charge rod bearing as it looks as if I have a different flywheel compared to the rest of the engine. With that made, I got everything plumbed in. I will try and get some pictures off of my phone.

This weekend was the 4th time I have tried to start it. I took some advice on fuel settings and on the first attempt, I got a big BANG! and off it went for 3 hits. I think it ran out of fuel and then died out. After a few more attempts, I got it to fire off and I bumped the gas up (as I started recording). The Reid really took off on me so I quick hit the fuel shut off valve. Now its time to clean up the details, but its a runner once again!

https://youtu.be/3pZD9cbd5X4
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
it takes a bit of practice to get the fuel mixture right. Make sure you have a good low pressure reserve (accumulator) or you will have trouble getting the engine to run reliably. They do not like running directly off a regulator.
 

StrikeForce

Registered
it takes a bit of practice to get the fuel mixture right. Make sure you have a good low pressure reserve (accumulator) or you will have trouble getting the engine to run reliably. They do not like running directly off a regulator.
Now that I know it fires, I want to play around with this a bit for sure. Along the way, I had read/been told that I could use a standard gas grill regulator. But I am stubborn and I was hoping to be accumulator free so I picked up a Fisher regulator that is rated for 1,400,000 BTU (R622-DFF). Based on volume, I had figured a minimum of 750,000 BTU and it was cheap enough so I figure I have plenty of volume. But, the downside to plenty of volume is that it wont starve that's for sure. After this weekend, I am more concerned about it running away before I get it dial in with the air.

I am sure it would also be easier if my fuel mixing valves would loosen up. As of now they are still stuck and this is 100% manual gas/air mixture control.
 
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