The attack on the threads was too gruesome to picture ,. not quite as bad is this valve stem --- mess--- .
Need your help guys,, what is supposed to be here , a small hole and a cotter pin with a nut ?.
also what would that cap look like ,,, any to be photographed ?.. any available ???.....
Mine has a tapered pin that goes into the end of the valve
I had to shave a nut thinner for the valve to open enough and it didn’t have a cap on it so I had one made, just have to make sure there is enough space for the spring cap to come down,
It has to hang lower than the threads or the spring doesn’t have any room to collapse to let the valve open
OK the question is with the valve stem end fixed and drilled , do you assemble and tighten the cushion piston all the way to the end and lock it with the nut which gives about 1/4 '' opening ?. or is this an assembly made to be adjusted to the spring pressure is less and the valve opens more ??
I want to get this back together before its too cold and deep in snow .....
The valve opens from the vacuum of the main cylinder, you want the spring light enough to not restrict flow but strong enough to close consistently,
My spring was missing so i had to find one that works,
The volume going through the valve per stroke I gave the valve as much opening as I could, I even shaved the jam nut thinner for more travel
( it didn’t come with one so I wasn’t sure how thick it was supposed to be)
Oh no--that gap's definitely not okay. That's gotta seal the compression or it'll backfire terribly if it'd run at all. You'll need new gaskets there; don't try to use the old ones. Check your seats for pitting too. Mine were terrible, so I made a (how do I explain this?) a thingy. That's what it is--a thingy. I made a thingy that fits the bore the valve assembly goes into. It has two steps, matching the valve assembly's, which contact the steps of the bore (where the copper gaskets go) at the same time--just like the valve does. Then I slathered valve grinding compound onto the two steps and spun it with a 1/2" drill until the two steps were smooth and free of pits--and theoretically still the same distance apart. I wasn't able to get mine to seal until I did that.
I answered your private message about what I did for gaskets, but I'll repeat it here so we're not seeming secretive or something. For the upper gasket, I used an 1/8" brass channel bent in a circle, silver soldier together and filled with 1/8" square high temperature graphite packing. (File the silver joint nicely so there're no lumps or bumps.) For the lower gasket I used an O-ring. I think it's Viton, if I remember right. The lower one doesn't need to withstand the heat or pressure from compression and ignition, so the O-ring works just fine (but it won't work on the top one); all it's doing is keeping the unfired charge from going into the room. Since the O-ring compresses easily, it puts almost all the force of your draw bolts on the upper gasket, made of the channel and packing, where you really need it to stand up to some strain.
It's been running that way for over fifteen years, so I guess it's a decent solution. I get backfires now and then when I'm starting or stopping and the mixture's a bit off, and so far the gaskets have held up to it. Now one'll blow out tomorrow, you watch. I'm sure other folks here have different solutions, but this is what I came up with.
Weld another nut on the broken stud,
I’ve had to try over a half dozen times on some,
Weld it on then heat the casting then cool the bolt/nut,I cool it with penetrating oil then try turning it out, sometimes it takes several heat cycles to come loose
Thanks Joel for your input, I sort of figured it could not run that way ....... will consider your fix.
Bill I did try several times , yes had success on other engines machinery , not working with this though ... heat is your friend for sure ...