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Reid 15 hp gas air metering

Jim Gorter

Registered
I remember reading some time back about setting up the slide valves on a Reid 15 hp so the speed could be adjusted with the gas valve. The setup in the owners manual is a bit cryptic and I would like to have the adjustment close when I go to start for the first time. I have disconnected the governor.. just need to know where to position the valves and how to lock them down so they dont loose their setting. I also installed a slide valve on the air intake. where should that valve be set.
Been a while since posting, been distracted with some other projects. Thanks to all for their help. Jim.
 

OldironPhil

Sponsor
Age
65
Last Subscription Date
11/15/2013
Hello. I am setting up my reid the same way you want to. Just running off the gas regulation from a tank valve. Talk to JOHN BURNS from Oilfield Engine Parts he is good I get all my parts from him. 937 845 3412. Phil
 

Greg Downard

Registered
Age
62
Last Subscription Date
11/21/2008
Hey Jim, Just wire the valves wide open and skip the slider. Use a half diamond valve in the gas line to regulate the gas flow. Start it out with 1/4 open. If it fires and dies, bump it open slightly more. Keep doing this until it stays running. It only takes a slight bump to speed it up too much so be careful not to bump it open too far. If it revs too much bump the valve closed more. When you get it were you want it, scratch or mark were it starts and were it runs the best.

Glad to see your back at it.
 

OldironPhil

Sponsor
Age
65
Last Subscription Date
11/15/2013
Hey Greg this is Phil. Are you talking about the spools in the fuel valve assembly, mine were taken out when it was last run with the gas needel valve. A lot of years ago. Have not run it yet still soaking the main piston. Phil
 

Greg Downard

Registered
Age
62
Last Subscription Date
11/21/2008
Yep thems the ones. Mine were froze in wide open position and everyone told me to just leave them alone. I did and have no problem running on a valve. If I ever wanted to run it on a govenor, I'd have to free them up.

Glad to help out if you need. Just shoot me a email.
 

Chuck Woycke

Subscriber
Age
69
Last Subscription Date
01/12/2020
GREG,I DO THINK YOU NEED THE SPOILS/VALVES/PISTONS IN IT.I HAVE A 15HP LFT HAND REID.I CONVERTED IT OVER TO SPARK PLUG IGNITION,IT RUNS BEST RETARTED 1/4-1/2 ATDC,THEN I PUT A 1 3/4" SU JAG CARB ON IT TO RUN ON GASOLINE,GOT IT RUNNING REAL GOOD,SET THE SPOIL VALVES JUST RIGHT,IT WOULD IDLE DOWN REAL LOW,THEN I LEFT IT SET FOR 15YRS THE SPOIL VALVE FROZE UP,SO I TOOK THE ASSY OFF,I HAVE SEVERAL SPARES,SO I READ ALL THE POST ON THIS SUBJECT,EVERYBODY SAYS IT DOESN'T MATTER,SO I THOUGHT)(WE ARE IN TROUBLE NOW:shrug:)I HAVE A ASSY WITH NO PISTONS/SPOILS IN IT.I'LL TRY IT TODAY ALL I HAVE IS A OPEN MANIFOLD WITH A TOP VALVE + THE SPRING.IT DID NOT WORK WELL IT RAN BUT DID NOT IDLE DOWN LIKE IT USED TO,SO I THINK YOU NEED THE PISTONS/SPOILS IN IT,FRIDAY I'LL PUT THE OLD ASSY IN WITH THE FROZEN PISTONS IN AN SEE IF IT RUNS ANY BETTER.I THINK WITH NO PISTONS/SPOILS IN IT THE GASOLINE WILL NOT MIX RIGHT,BUT MAYBE WITH NAT GAS IT DOESN'T MATTER,HAS ANYBODY RUN THEIR REID WITH NO PISTONS IN THE MIXING ASS'Y?
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

Hello, I am getting ready to fire up a 15 hp Reid I have been working on for some time.
I have built a wet gasometer to supply the low pressure fuel to the gas valve. I hooked up a 1/4 inch U shaped tube and put in some water. This is a crude manometer. With a one inch scale I measured the level at equilibrium and then turned on the propane tank to supply. I show a 3.5 inch rise in the water column from equilibrium. I added some weight to the sliding cylinder and could get the water to rise about 6 inches.
Everyone is telling me 11 inches of water for the correct inlet pressure, but Im not sure if my gasometer can go that high with out blowing out the oil in the bottom of the 2nd cylinder. Question, Can I run the Reid on 3.5 to 6 inches of H2O for inlet pressure? Thanks, Jim.
 

Eric M.

Registered
Age
27
Re: 15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

3.5 to 6 should work fine. Just use a slightly larger inlet line and be prepared to fiddle a bit with the valve settings. Patience is the key.
 

Kirk Taylor

Registered
Re: 15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

Jim,
Don't add weight to the gasometer. Plumb it with 1" pipe from the gasometer to the engine. If it is properly sized, it will deliver more gas than the engine could ever consume. The inherent design of a gasometer makes available a really big gulp of gas. The 11" of water column is for a small diaphram regulator that isn't capable of supplying ample fuel at extremely low pressures.

Kirk
 

Tom Geier

Registered
Last Subscription Date
01/02/2017
Re: 15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

A friend of mine just takes the hose in a bucket of water. Puts it down about 13 inches. Slowly turns the regulator up until he gets gas bubbles. His runs fine.
 

John A

Registered
Re: 15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

Jim,
3.5 to 6 inches water column is standard operating pressure for natural gas systems.
For LP Gas you should have 10 to 14 inches water column.
If you starve the engine for fuel you could take the risk of burning an exhaust valve.
Check your regulators there should be a spring range listed.
John
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
Re: 15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

Thanks for all the responses. My system has a single set regulator at the tank then a 3/8 inch rubber line to the gasometer. the gasometer is plumbed in 3/4 inch pipe clear to outlet. My diamond valve and inlet piping on the engine is 1/2 inch. Do I need to find a bigger diamond valve to go with the bigger inlet piping on the engine?
I also want to use flexible hose from gasometer to engine piping. What type of hose and fittings do I need? Thanks, I'm getting excited to finally try to start this engine. Jim.
 

Eric M.

Registered
Age
27
Re: 15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

A 1/2" diamond valve will flow plenty of gas for the engine.
 

Doug Waggonner

Registered
Age
41
Last Subscription Date
01/13/2011
Re: 15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

Jim,
3.5 to 6 inches water column is standard operating pressure for natural gas systems.
For LP Gas you should have 10 to 14 inches water column.
If you starve the engine for fuel you could take the risk of burning an exhaust valve.
Check your regulators there should be a spring range listed.
John

Jim, dont worry about burning an exhaust valve, since Reids dont have one :O
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
Re: 15 Hp Reid Propane Gas Pressure to engine.

Doug, I read that response and was scratching my head. I believe the set regulator puts out 15 psig. DIdnt remember putting any springs into the wet gasometer,but it does have about 5 gallons of used motor oil (closest I could find to crude).
I want to keep the gasometer a ways from the engine for fire safety,hence the hose, but Im having a tough time finding the LP rated hose in 1/2 " or 5/8" I.D. sizing. Will other material work with the LP? Thanks, Jim.
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Well today was the day to finally Try to start the Reid. Not a pop. I hooked up the gasometer , Fired off the hot tube burner, oiled and checked all the fitttings. Had a couple of small water leaks around the bolts, waited until the hot tube was orange 3/4 of the way up. Rolled over the engine so the charge piston was at TDC and rolled thru 3/4 revolution so the charge was pushed over to main cylinder. Then i reversed the flywheels and pulled the main cylinder back as hard as I could. Nothing.
I repeated the procedure at different valve settings but not a pop, hiss or even a fart. I am not able to pull the cylinder thru a full revolution due to the compression. The fuel valve is rattling on the intake, the crossover valve is loose... i can push it up with my thumb.
What am I doing wrong and how can I check to make sure the charge is getting transferred to the main cylinder. How hard do I need to pull the piston back to set off the charge? I can roll it back about 3/4 to TDC but thats about it. I know I have gas to the mixer because I can see the gas distortion of the air coming out the air inlet.
I know I am close, but I also know the gas/air mix has to be just right, but I figured I would at least get some smoke. Any help or suggestion is much appreciated. Regards, Jim.
 

Joel Sanderson

Registered
Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Jim,

I really don't think I'm the man to answer this, since I have only one Reid, and no experience with any others. But I'll discribe how I start mine, and you can compare what you are doing.

Preparation:

1. make sure the hot tube is clean internally. (Fouling will prevent it from igniting the charge.)
2. turn oilers on; adjust
3. light hot tube burner
4. open releif cock on top of the cylinder
5. rotate and wipe oil off flywheels for a better grip
6. dope pistons with oil (pour a little on them where they hang out.)
7. rotate charging piston to top center
8. close releif cock
9. look to see that hot tube is orange

Starting procedure:

(Take a deep breath.)
1. rotate flywheels backwards
2. turn gas cock on to its running position for 1/2 of the backwards revolution.
3. rotate flywheels forward, returning charging piston to top center
4. rotate flywheels as hard as possible backwards to compress charge in main, causing impulse forward.
5. at first impulse, turn gas cock on

I only pull my flywheels downward, and I never put my foot on a spoke to start it. I grip the rims only. I can't pull mine through compression either.

If you flood the engine, which is easy to do (and is very likely to happen when you're first learning to start it) take an air hose from an air compressor and blow through the releif cock to clear the cylinder out the ports. I also blow in the intake pipe to clear that as well. Do this for at least two, preferrably three revolutions to make sure all gas is out of the system. (The relief cock goes in the hole directly over the main valve and is a compression release.)

I have a stop on my gas cock so that I can open it up to its running position quickly with my foot. Otherwise, I don' t know how to crank the flywheels and open the cock for just half a revolution. This is simply a 1/2-13 set screw clamped to the line with a scale next to it. This let me dial it in. Also, I am using just a standard ball valve. If I remember right, my gas pressure is 7 inches of water.

Oh yeah, a longer hot tube will fire with less compression than a shorter one. I think my longest, easiest starting tube is about 6 1/2" internally.

Things to consider:

Have you checked to be certain you have compression in your charging cylinder? If your lower seal on your main valve is leaking, the charge will not get into the main cylinder. To test this, remove the crank bearing and push the rod in, testing its compression and listening for leaks. Use soap bubbles if you want to.

Have you checked the seal of the valve and top gasket on the main valve? With the crank on the charging piston still removed, make compression in the main cylinder; if this forces the charging piston out, you have a leak.

Good luck. I'm sure someone here can give you a lot more help that I can.

Joel
 

Jim Gorter

Registered
Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Joel, Thanks for the information. My Reid doesnt have a relief valve, so I guess I have to just shut off the gas and roll it thru somehow to purge the cylinder when flooded. My hot tube is new, I think it's 6 inch. I replaced the copper sealing rings and put on a thin layer of coppered silicone on reinstallation. I will remove the charge bearing and check the compression as mentioned. I am using the original gas valve with the pointer and graduated scale that goes 0 to 4. It is 1/2 inch pipe size. My main valve is loose. I can push it up with my finger,but it feels sluggish, like the guide sleeve is a bit sticky. Keep the suggestions coming, I will try them all. Thanks for the help, Jim.
 

Joel Sanderson

Registered
Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

I'd hate to try and start mine without a releif valve. Just having that will save you a lot, especially for purging it when it's flooded. You have a hole for one, presumably 3/4"? Find an old dairy barn with the stantions still in it and the old vacuum lines still there. They are 5/8", but you can use an adaptor. They have a long tapered outlet (or inlet) for slipping a hose on. You can cut that off short and round it off so it looks nice if you want. But the point is, they are all bronze and can take the heat. That's what I have on mine.

I imagine you could still clamp a stop on your gas valve if you wanted. It could be temporary until you get the feel for things. I've never used one like you have, but I understand they are a lot better than a ball valve like I have, so maybe the stop isn't necessary.

I have a metal gasket for my top gasket on the main valve, and I have an o-ring for the bottom one. This way, the o-ring crushes for a more sure seal and allows more pressure on the top copper ring. Only the top gasket has to stand up to compression and heat anyway. (I am using a Viton o-ring, dash No 249.) I know folks get the double copper gaskets to work, but I never was able to. Plus, my engine is anchored inside a closed building, and I don't want to risk any gas leaking into the room and blowing me up.

Once you figure it out, it'll be easy to start, don't worry. In the mean time, don't use up too much of your cussing quota.
 

Tim B

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
05/06/2019
Re: Reid 15 hp Starting (Not Really)

Hi Jim. What I did on my Ried is mounted a buzz coil on mine and used a spark plug. Trying to figure everything out;fuel psi,volume,hot tube color,air valve,gas valve, tdc..ect..... I just opt'ed for electric ignition first. That way I knew one of my guesses would be right. Than I tried psi, and volume next. Oh yeah , one more thing, keep everything writen down and try each adjustment 2 or 3 times before changing. I also put a ball valve on top of the 2 cylinders to relieve any flooded charge,and it will flood easier than you think. My Ried will also start by only pulling in a charge 1/2 way back instead of tdc. Patients my freind and many, many cold ones will get you there. Good luck!!!!!!!!!!
 
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