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Reid 20HP need tips on mounting to trailer

Larry Anger

Registered
I have a 20 HP Reid and wish to mount it permanently to a 2 axle trailer. I'm wondering if there are any viewers here that have done so and could possibly give me some dimensions such as where is the balance point of this engine so I can get it located properly on the trailer? Any hints, thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Larry.
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
If worst comes to worst, lift the engine and place a 2" diameter pipe under the engine, parallel to the crankshaft. Move the engine back and forth until it balances on the pipe, then move the engine forward. Place a bathroom scale under the front, and find the balance point where about 200 to 250 pounds is on the scale. Pipe location will be between the axles and the weight is for tongue weight. You don't want a balanced trailer - it will try and drive the truck for you!(pushing is the term) If your trailer is already nose heavy, then keep the balance centered on the engine. NOTE: the Reid is also heavy to one side (transfer cylinder offset). You will need to find the center of balance side to side as well so as not to load one side of the trailer more than the other. The engine will have to be mounted so as each side is evenly loaded, as well as front to back.
Andrew
 

Chris Wheeler

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
Put it on the trailer and strap it down with tie downs. Take it for a short drive with the truck you will be hauling it with and see how it feels going down the road. I did this when I was mounting my 10 hp Famous. I ended up moving it forward 4 inches from where I started. You would not believe how much difference a few inches can make when pulling a load.
 

Larry Anger

Registered
Andrew - thanks for the reply. I guess what I was looking for was someone who has done this already and new where the balance point was. My problem is at home I don't enough lifting capacity to lift the complete engine and enough overhead clearance. What I intend to do is take the bedplate and flywheel and crank in two separate loads to my son's workplace and use the overhead crane to assemble the engine on the trailer. Just trying to use someones past experience for positioning the complete engine on the trailer. Thanks, Larry.

---------- Post added at 08:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 AM ----------

Chris - thanks for the reply. I was just trying to shortcut all the trial and error by using other peoples experience. I want to build into the trailer proper supports for bolting down the engine using the bolt locations in the bedplate. Knowing where the balance point is ahead of time would allow me to construct the trailer accordingly. Thanks, Larry.
 

Jack Innes

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
01/17/2020
Larry, Take the advice given to heart. I have towed literally hundreds of cars long distances on a trailer & can attest that even 2" forward or back on a 2 ton car can change the whole experience.
You can still load the components with the overhead crane, strap the assembled engine down & try it on the road at speed. Remember to consider the weight & position of a water tank & other equipment that will travel with the engine.
 

Kirk Taylor

Registered
I have a 20 HP Reid and wish to mount it permanently to a 2 axle trailer. I'm wondering if there are any viewers here that have done so and could possibly give me some dimensions such as where is the balance point of this engine so I can get it located properly on the trailer? Any hints, thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Larry.
Larry,
A local collector has a 20 hp Reid on a dedicated trailer. I can measure the position on the trailer, but, as others have mentioned, any variances at all from his exact design will change the load distribution. In order to have your engine positioned the same as his, you would need an exact clone of his rig right down to the materials for the trailer, the tool box on the front, the laminated timbers supporting the engine, and the honkin' big wooden barrel for a cooling tank.
Build a trailer that will haul your engine. Load everything up the way you want it, strap it down, and go for a ride. Reposition things as needed, then, when you're satisfied, weld in two cross members where you want to bolt the engine down.

Kirk
 

Larry Anger

Registered
Kirk - I would appreciate it if you could contact your local collector and try and find out if he knows the balance point of the engine alone. I realize all of the varying factors as listed above and understand this as I have built many trailers in the past. I was just trying to get a little heads up on the engine alone to get ideas on locating things on the trailer. If you could get a few photos of his setup I'd appreciate it. If this is possible I'll give you e-mail address so you can send pictures directly to me. Larry.
 

Kirk Taylor

Registered
Kirk - I would appreciate it if you could contact your local collector and try and find out if he knows the balance point of the engine alone. I realize all of the varying factors as listed above and understand this as I have built many trailers in the past. I was just trying to get a little heads up on the engine alone to get ideas on locating things on the trailer. If you could get a few photos of his setup I'd appreciate it. If this is possible I'll give you e-mail address so you can send pictures directly to me. Larry.
Larry,
I'll be happy to gather whatever info you need. The engine is in storage right now but will be coming out in two weeks for a local show. If you can wait 'til then, I'll grab some photos and measurements.

Kirk
 

Larry Anger

Registered
Kirk - that will be great. A few pictures of his setup would be great. I've looked at many Reid setups over the last few years and another one would be great. We have owned the engine for about 12 years and hopefully can get it set up on a trailer this winter.
 

Rod Fielder

Registered
Last Subscription Date
04/14/2016
a good starting point for a reid is, front of flywheel centered with front axle. reids center point is further forward of most oil field engines
 

Peter Holmander

Subscriber
Age
71
Last Subscription Date
12/23/2019
Larry,,,the most important thing you have to worry about is that your final adjusted tongue weight should be less than 10% of your total gross trailer weight. And secondly,,,,your final tongue weight should not exceed the rating on the hitch of the vehicle that you're going to be pulling the engine with. I loaded my 15 hp Reid, which was already mounted on new oak skids onto my trailer and strapped it down. I then drove to a truck stop near me and they have sectionalized scales where you can get a separate weight on the truck and trailer. I got an actual gross weight on just my engine and trailer. I then returned home and estimated how much more weight I was going to add with my cooling tank, propane bottles, tools, and added that to my gross weight. I have the weight slips here somewhere, but if I remember correctly, I was around 5200 lbs. So for the sake of argument, lets say I will be adding an extra 500 lbs to that for a total of 5700 lbs. 10% of that would give me a tongue weight of 570 lbs. My pickup hitch is rated for 800 lbs tongue weight, so I am safely within the limits of my truck. I then used the same method Andrew told you about, but I used a freight style beam scale with the trailer set perfectly level with the trailer tongue sitting on the scale. I then just rolled the engine on steel pipes forward until I reached the tongue weight I wanted. I think I ended up going with a tongue weight of 400 lbs. It sounds like a complicated deal, but its pretty easy actually. If your trailer is not too high,,and you have some cribbing to use, you could jack your engine up until its high enough to roll it onto your trailer. With a helper, its not too bad of a job. This could be done outside of your building so you would not have any ceiling height restrictions to worry about. I would also suggest that trailer brakes are a must. Without them, if you ever had to make a panic stop, you would never be able to stop. Hopefully your trailer does not have hydraulic surge brakes. Those are fine on dry roads, but a little water or ice and they are useless. Good tires too. Add a weight distribution hitch into the mix if you can afford it when you are all done, and if the DOT ever stops you, it will bring smiles to their faces. Good luck with your trailer project and remember, safety first.
 

Rob Leonard

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Larry, the balance point on my engine is 30" back from center of front bolt hole in base. Rob.
 

Larry Anger

Registered
Thanks Rob. That was the information I was looking for. That gives me a good stating point for mounting the engine. Now I just have to figure in all the extra stuff. Now that I know the balance point of the engine I can more easily figure out where the other stuff can be located.
 

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