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Rookie with IHC M

john gilbert

Registered
Re: Rookie with IHC M

Hi Guys, another easy way to tell the HP of the "M" is the centres of the fuel tank mounting bolt holes underneath.
They are 1+1/2hp engine:- 14+1/2 inches
3hp engine 16+1/2 inches
6hp engine 23 inches.
I do not have the 10hp, as that is the only one I have never had an order for.
Talking of the 3hp engine, I have just completed another fuel tank for someone who rang me with the order around Christmas time. Yes, I have lost my note and have no idea who it is for ???? getting old is a bummer. Did you order this tank??
Cheers, John
 

Dobbo56

Registered
John
Wasn't me haven't even look at the fuel tank on my engine yet but its on the list
Cheers Dobbo56
 

john gilbert

Registered
Hi Guys I just had a look at that auction site, mentioned in the last quote and all I can say is "WOW" now I wish I was a bit closer to it as it would be an eye opener to see. Plenty of old engines, tractors etc and tools. Also heaps for the scrappy. Cheers, John
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Hi Guys
Does anyone know what size the thread is on the oiler tube where it screws into the cylinder ?
The other end where the oiler screws on is 3/8" bsp.
Cheers Dobbo56
 

rodneyt

Registered
here we go, here we go, here we go,
......

now is when you start the never ending accumulation of 'just one more' of those seemingly
ordinary tools you never thought you would ever need.
and possibly don't even yet know exist!
and might never need again,

in this case, a thread gauge set.
oops, make that 'sets'...
 

eddie bedwell

Registered
Hi Team,
being a American engine it should/will have NPT (National Pipe) threads for the taper pipe fittings.
Chart below may help.
I guess looking at Shopdog Sam's video of fitting a cylinder liner to an M engine that the lubricator pipe is 1/8" NPT--if not, 1/4" NPT

I spent some $$$'s years ago and bought a set of Thread Files and I am sure the scraping internal thread ends would fit in the 1/8" NPT thread hole--- approx. 3/8 " diameter to allow cleaning up the internal threads.

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipethreadsizing.html

https://www.valvesonline.com.au/references/threads/
 

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perthlisterfan

Registered
Went to the Goomalling sale yesterday. Was a good day and well attended. Over 400 lots that were sold over about 6 hours. Small stuff sold very well, and larger stuff sold cheaper. The Crossley sold for $18,000. The Gray on the transport sold for $1400. The New Way CH sold for $600. I was happy as I picked up the Denbigh drill for $250 and the IHC “M” series and big lister fuel tank for $700. Also picked up a complete oxy kit with bottles and about 50 spare cutting tips for $60.
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Hi guys have been doing a little work on the M.
Removed the fuel tank to check it for leaks none found . HOWEVER :mad: I have discovered a hole in the casting see picture, anyone had done any repairs on case?
 

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Jonesey

Registered
I’ve had good success repairing cast iron casings with an epoxy putty that is sold at Repco stores, it comes in a stick that you cut off a piece which has 2 layers that you knead together until the colour is consistent. Press into gap or crack and it sets in 4 minutes. It’s brand name is Dynasteel Epoxy Putty and JB Weld also market a similar product.
Getting back to your Oiler thread, on my M it’s 1/4” NPT, the Brass tube can be purchased from Hit N Miss Enterprises in the US. Good Luck Les
 

cobbadog

Registered
Selleys also make an epoxy putty named "U-need-It" and you can find it at Bunnings. I have used it in a few jobs and it can be drilled and tapped once hardened correctly in a day or so.
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Jonesey
Thanks for the info on the putty.
Ihave purchased an oil tube from Cam (Mtype) plus a few other items he had
Cheers Dobbo56

---------- Post added at 05:28:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:23:48 AM ----------

Cobbadog
Thanks for the infomation I have used u need it before but didn't think of it to repair cast steel
Cheers
Dobbo56
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Hi all have stumbled on a virtual gold mine of engines through an old mate have a look at the photos of what is is sitting around, and the owner has had a stroke and will not be able to do anything with them. Hope to get a couple of M's out of it.
Cheers Dobbo56
 

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Dobbo56

Registered
Hi all
Well now with social isolation inforced and it is raining so it's time to head to the shed and stay out of the missus way. Now after a long hiatus it's time to do some more work on the transporter for the M.
Had a crash course on the lathe and bar bender on Saturday to make the axles, steering dolly and rear axle clamps. Sunday I got the transport from down the backyard, but however the worst thing, leaving the frame outside for so long it has now got a 25mm twist in it, so I have to pull it apart to restart again.
Tuesday, reassembled the transporter rails, steering plate and cross rails for the engine to mount too, squared and tightened all, then checked but the twist was still there unfortunately but when I slackened the crossbar nuts the twist reduced to about 5mm, figure that one out :headbang: , so left it to let the glue dry, will tighten them again when the weight of the engine is sitting on the cross bars.
Welded the front axle to steering plate and add the steering linkages, assembled all together read for painting. Here are some photo, should be finished in a couple of days.
Cheers Dobbo
 

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cobbadog

Registered
Good to see you back in the shed instead of the boat Dobbo. There are a few hot rods that would love a dropped front axle like that, very flash fella. With you saying about leaving your transporter out in the weather Macs one is too at the moment and we have had 50mm of rain today so I better pull it back under cover. Fortunately I think yours will come back into being flat and true again with the engine on it. Look forward to seeing more progress soon. Say hi to the cook!
 

rodneyt

Registered
sorry to bore some by being repetitive, i think i have told this story before somewhere,
but old machinery stories cant be any worse than tv repeats...

one possible reason for some of the twist in the transporter frame is cheap bolts and nuts.
a while back i needed to make a 'slotted nut' because only a proper slotted nut would work as per original,
the shops here had castle nuts, but they are too tall.
after making one, i could not get it to screw on neatly, discovered that it must have been threaded off square,
so went back to shop to get another, this time checking the nut on a bolt see if it wound on smoothly and did not wobble.
after about a dozen all wobbled as being turned, i gave up in disgust and went to shop across road, same drama but did eventually find a good nut,
so i was able to make my slotted nut. to me this was very important the nut should run true, so as not to stress the bolt thread sideways unevenly, that would put it at risk of bending it or causing a stress point, or more likely in a slotted nut which has a bit less effective thread due to the slots, the tight side would be high risk of stripping.

maybe you have off-true nuts causing uneven tensions on the frame?
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Cobba
The Cook says she's not the cook ( I am ) would rather be in the boat, I suppose that's a good way to social distance. A day coming up in the shed tomorrow as rain is expted, might even hold a Dobbo rally and give Buz a run.
Cheers Dobbo
 

stuart higgins

Registered
I would think twice about ordering parts from hit@miss still waiting on parts odered 12 months ago
it seems money one way parts the otherway
Suart
 
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