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Rookie with IHC M

Dobbo56

Registered
Made a new head gasket this afternoon and remounted the head, just have to fit up fuel lines, check tension the see if there is any slack on the big end and replace cover. Then šŸ¤žand hears hoping :unsure:
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Hi to all the wise stakers following my threat.
I have a bit of a conundrum with the big end of the M!

As I posted before when I pulled the piston out the big end bolts were bent.
Don't know if the reason for this is that the spacers on the big end seem to be made from a thin gal sheet.
Would it be better to use brass for these shims ?
In photo the top two were on one side and the other three were on the other. I measured the thickness of the two at 0.038" and other other three at 0.080".
My question is shouldn't both sides have the same amount of shims.


20200515_191844.jpg
I have installed the piston and fitted the big end finger tight only, there is little to no movement in the bearing and when rotating the flywheel I can feel no resistance on the crank.
I am a little reluctant at trying to start her up and do damage to her.
Can anyone advise what sort of clearance I should have?
Cheers
Dobbo
 

cobbadog

Registered
Hi Dobbo, I have never worked on one but it would make a lot of sense that the packing should be equal on either side to centre the push rod. I can't see why the shims can't be made from what ever is available but must be equal, I guess.
The shims in the McDonald for changing the compression ratio are also galvansied sheet metal.
 

hceeB

Registered
In most engineering situations the use of brass for shimming is common, I would have thought that there could be a problem over time with the galvanizing (zinc) having some form of detrimental affect on the metals of the part that it is mounted between, you can buy shim brass in different thicknesses.
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Done the shimming but now found out that the fuel pump has been standing to long it has given up the ghost tried repacking but nothing, there is a bit of wear under the packing area, can anyone comment if it is to much and the shaft needs replaceing?
Cheers
Dobbo20200520_084308.jpg20200520_084321.jpg
 
Done the shimming but now found out that the fuel pump has been standing to long it has given up the ghost tried repacking but nothing, there is a bit of wear under the packing area, can anyone comment if it is to much and the shaft needs replaceing?
Cheers
DobboView attachment 396549View attachment 396550
hi i had the same problem with my Mtype it leaked and did not appear tokeep pressure up i tried Oring and new packing but failed
so i purchased a new shaft out of america off hiynmiss enterprise. good luck.
 

Scotty 2

Registered
Done the shimming but now found out that the fuel pump has been standing to long it has given up the ghost tried repacking but nothing
Hello Mr Dobbo.
When you say given up the ghost, do you mean the pump doesn't work at all or it leaks like buggery out the top of the pump housing?
If it's not pumping check the ball valves, including seats, in the bottom of the pump. There should be two. One at the bottom of the plunger and one where the top pipe going up to the carb screws in if I remember.
If it's leaking really badly out the top then probably a new plunger is needed. But it should still pump even if it leaks out the packing gland (depending if it's a proper spurting of fuel out the gland or not)
Cobba, the plunger is part of the rocker but it's easy to change the plunger. A bit of a drill, a bit of lathe work and jobs done. I've done it before so it can't be that hard.
Cheers Scott
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Hello Mr Dobbo.
When you say given up the ghost, do you mean the pump doesn't work at all or it leaks like buggery out the top of the pump housing?
Mr Scotty and Cobba
The pump she isn't doing anything, I have taken it off and stripped it down, then watched a youtube video of Shopdogsam's on refurbishing a pump. With the bottom check valve out I used a 7/16" drill (by hand) to clean up the ball seat, then used new packing string (about 3/16" dia) lubricated it and wrapped it around the plunger then refitted into the pump, it bound a bit so I put a bit of kero down it but it doesn't seem to have any pressure.
Just means I will have to get the elco in to wire the lathe that has been sitting in the shed for 3 years, son's bother in law has been coming for that long to wire it up, but he met a women so he lost interest in doing it.
Things have slowed on the M lately and moved on to the beeza getting the tin work ready for painting.
Cheers
Dobbo
 

Scotty 2

Registered
Hello Mr Dobbo.
It'll be in the valves. Are you using steel balls or are the brass balls still in there?
After cutting a new seat I normally put a steel ball down and use a drift to give it a quick, sharp whack just to make sure the ball will seat. It means the steel ball is sacrificial but they're cheap as chips.
You can check to see if the balls are seating by putting a bit of pipe on the tank side of the pump and sucking. The valve should hold a vacuum. Do one valve at a time and bung your thumb over the plunger hole when you check the valve that takes the fuel to the carbi.
You can also check the pump by sitting the bottom in a container with some fuel in it and push the plunger. If it works there and not on the engine then there's a leaking joint between the tank and pump. That leak will not allow a vacuum for the pump to work. The pump will be sucking air, not fuel.
Cheers Scott
PS: there is enough fuel in the tank to be picked up is there? Sometimes a pickup pipe doesn't reach anywhere near the bottom ie 3 litres of fuel can't be picked up. That's caught me once. To check, put a length of clear hose on the pipe that screws into the bottom of the pump and put some suck on it with a vacuum pump. You should see the fuel coming up the clear tube.
Or clear tube and blow. You should be able to hear bubbles.
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Scotty thanks for the very informative set by set problem solving. Both the balls are brass. So off to the shed ( if not way laid by mrs Dobbo).
Cheers
Dobbo
 

Dobbo56

Registered
Been in the shed today and followed Scotty's steps for the fuel pump and bench tested it and got it working. However after assembling everything I found out that in my haste in putting shims in the timing is now about 180Ā° out, so the old adage don't rush things.
Cheers
Dobbo20200523_114518.jpg
 
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