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Rustoleum paint questions

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
First,I want to paint a T chassis and such with Rustoleum Hunter green.BUT I want it darker than what it is in the can.
Is there a chart that would help me determine how much of another color,probably black,that I would need to mix in it to make it darker?
Also,could you mix a quart of hammered paint with a quart of standard paint and thin it to spray? I know the hammered look would be reduced but it might be perfect for hiding rust pits and flaws and giving it a unique look at the same time?
I found internet video of spraying cars with rustoleum and it turns out ok. But nothing about mix ratios for colors.
1 video says 1 pint of rustoleum and 4 oz of paint thinner, another says a 4 to 3 ratio of paint and acetone.
Don't know which would be best but I also need to google if there is a hardener for it?
 

Bear67

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
02/02/2020
I am not a painter and don't portray one on TV. But if I want some custom color, I go to the experts. If you have a Sherman Williams or Kelly Moore paint store anywhere locally, they have employees and computer matching computers that have always produced what I needed. Their paint is good quality and their advice has always helped me and I have been successful in several different locations.

But on the other hand. I had a Fairbanks Z already painted and built a new cart for it with some really good wheels, axles and frame rails from an old MayersIMG_0759.JPG pump. I mixed 6 oz of Rustoleum Hunter Green with 2 oz of semi gloss black and it looked real close. Not sure you can tell difference after 4 years in the barn.

I have used rattlecans and quarts of rustoleum hammertone paint on machines and I always have problems with runs--heavy and light spots. But my friend who is the best tractor painter I know, says I just put on too heavy a coat. His thing is spray thin and do it again--rinse and repeat. Also he says I am not prepping enough. I do welding and machining for him as he has a pacemaker and can't weld anymore and he will paint for me. Couple years back we were getting a Wisconsin engine running on a 1941 Case hay baler and I had cleaned the Wico mag and it was hot. He got his elbow too close while I was twisting its tail and the jolt knocked him to the ground. In 4 minutes he had a call from Minnesota or Little Rabbit Australia, wherever they remotely monitor pacemakers and asked what caused an electrical spike in his device--said it really sped up his ticker for a few minutes.
Who knew we have defibrillators on out old engines and equipment.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
Thanks,the 6 and 2 type thing is what I am after.I want a DARK green,as in daRK!
 

Tracy T

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/16/2019
Blue you wont need hardner with rustoleum. It dries slow and is very chip resistant. as far as thinning goes you will want to use acetone, and dont go by the directions! they are worthless!:rant:trial and error is how i figured it out, if you go by what they say it wont flow and leaves a rough finish. add enough acetone and it flows just as good as any automotive paint. spray thin and do it again, I like that!:rotfl: but thats what it takes! if you are worried about rust pits, if they are not grand canyon sized use a high build primer. Paint covers NOTHING! If anything it magnifies it! do your prep! if you can see it or feel it its going to show up!
 

cobbadog

Registered
I have never mixed a hammertone and a gloss before and would not know if they would mix together properly but would make for a good experiment. Does Rustoleum come in cans and not just pressure pack ones I have seen snd used here in Oz?
If it can be bought in normal cans then mixing 2 different types together is obviuosly an easy thing to do but when it comes to dilluting this is the tricky bit.
In the days that I drank way too much I was in deep discussion with a professional industrial painter who sprayed earthmoving equipment and those big dump truck bodies for open cut mines. He told me that when using a standard flat stirring stick that is usually around an inch wide, you add a small amount of thinner and stir it in properly. Lift the stirring stick and once the paint stops running count how drips fall off the end. The ideal amount is 10 drops. If you get more it is too thin and if it is less it tis too thick. I have worked on this theory for years and it works for me.
The advise you were given about applying it too heavy or thick is correct and will always run. Apply many light coats and allow some time between coats to 'flash off'. Now if your spraying your pride and joy stationary engine allow a couple of minutes between coats and keep them light. If you have the right consistancy the paint will be lovely and glossy with no bumps or orange peel in it. You should be applying at least 6 -10 coats and more for that better finish and depth in the paint finish. Lately I have been using 2pac on some projects from mowers to tractor and I tend to like the end results using that.
What ever you do consider using one brand of product in the paint department from start to finish, they are designed to work best together rather than a cheap primer and a dear top coat, this invites trouble. Preparation is more than half the finished job so dont rush the preparation and the end result will please you no end.
 

cobbadog

Registered
I know it is available in pressure pack spray cans here so I will look into a 2 litre can to respray my trailer.
 

Ed Bays

Registered
Last Subscription Date
12/14/2013
The way the paint manufacturing company in Tulsa (Anchor Paint) makes hammertone....Is just mix Aluminum enamel into the enamel base color. I've done it on machine tools, antique illusion clocks, as well as used it on the covers for animated parts of neons. . You just have to experiment with the mixture. Start with a small amount of aluminum enamel so as to not waste the base color with too heavy of a mixture and results that you don't care for.

It has something to do with the silicons in the aluminum paint. I think this is probably the answer to all you guy's problems. To experiment, from a spray bomb/rattle can, spray out some base color then while still very wet...spray on some aluminum (or vice versa). This will give you an idea of what it will look like. I've heard of spraying silicone lubricant into the base color also, but have never tried this. ...ED
 

Charley K

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
10/09/2019
I like hardener in everything unless I need a dull finish. The hardener makes it shiny as well as durable. Of course it dries faster also.
 

cobbadog

Registered
Yes, silicone is paints biggest enemy and is what you try to avoid having anywhere near your fresh paint work. I never knew that it was what is used to give the effect for hammertone.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
Just to update,I got my quart can and a fine brush and the chassis looks ok. It has cured for a couple ,3 weeks and it is durable.I will have to repaint it when I get things fitted as it is getting bumped and such but it has pits and such,you cant tell it was painted with a brush. :clap: The sheet metal of course will be painted with the hvlp gun so I know it will be smooth.
 

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cobbadog

Registered
Looks good Blue. Doing touch ups sometimes is just part of the job, no big issue. I had an 'oops' moment one time cleaning out the fuel tank and left it on a small table and went for a cuppa. I heard a terrible sound because when I heard it I knew what had happened. A gust of wind that was not there before going foe the cuppa blew the tank off the table and onto some nice new 20mm blues gravel. It scratched the crap out of the 2pac paint. So it was a case of a full rub down, new primer and fresh top coat. Bolted it back together and the colour was perfect and all is good again.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
Yes,Rustoleum Gloss forest green with a 1.5 inch brush.
I will use it with the spray gun on the sheet metal later on when I get it all ready.
 

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