• If you like antique engines, vintage tractors or old iron machinery, register and join us. When you register on Smokstak, please give complete answers and fill in the blanks. - IF YOU ARE ON WIRELESS OR SATELLITE, ENTER YOUR CITY AND STATE! NO ZIPCODES! All registrations are manually approved.

Solo 636. Did I screw up too bad?

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
I needed a light weight saw and am on a limited budget.
I have a Husky 51 that works good but is heavy.
I happened to go by the lawnmower shop this morning and they had a german made Solo 636 there for 40 bucks. Leaks oil is what they told me.I cranked it up,ran great.
I bought it.Brought it home,used it a while and it was dull,so I got it sharpened up and it was a little hard to start.
I notice that once it is used a little and cut off,it trys to start when i get ready to use it again but it stops and it is flooded.

I am thinking 3 things could be the problem.
Needle sticks in the carb,
low compression when hot,but if it pulls fuel,should have enough to run.
Or weak spark.
But I can dry the plug and it trys again to crank up.
I love the weight of it,it has PLENTY of power for the type sawing I wanted it for.Couldnt be happyer if it werent so hard to crank back up after a few minutes.
I cant use a saw but a few minutes and I have to stop and rest.So not being able to start it back is annoying.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
Re: Solo 636. Did I screw up to bad?

The oil leak is strange.
no oil leaks from the saw till you remove the cap to add more oil to the chain oiler.Then it suddenly starts dumping out what is left from somewhere and it runs all over the saw,into the muffler and all.
once you put the cap back on after hurrying to fill it up.,no more comes out.you clean up and use the saw.
After I typed the first entry on this thread I used the saw about 45 minutes.Ran and cut good.It has a built in compression release.
I wonder if it is sticking the reason it trys to start and cant?
 

coyote62ny

Registered
Re: Solo 636. Did I screw up to bad?

i wonder if this saw has the same type ioler system as the homelite 150. the homelite 150 has a diaphram operated oiler if the diaphram gets a hole in it the engine sucks the bar oil into the crankcase. this makes them hard to start and they somke like hell when you get them started.you say you have oil in the muffler from the bar oil that is why i mentioned this condition. you could also have a tore metering diaphram or a leaking inlet needle or a inlet needle operating lever set to high holding the needle off the seat. if the inlet needle is the problem you most of the time find gas in the air box or dripping out of the carb. hope this helps you get it going.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
I have a question related to this saws chain. I had a replacement chain cut a year or so ago and it was supposed to be correct.
I can get the tension what I feel like is right and it is to tight. I can loosen it a bit,and it slings it off. Can't seem to keep the chain on it for any length of time.My dad is telling me get a another chain and a sprocket.
Before i dump a small fortune in a sprocket I wanted to ask what else would cause it to sling it's chain?
Once i put the chain back on it cuts like lighting for a while till it slings it off again.
when i order parts, which i know I have to call Solo to order them, I will be getting a gas and oil cap to.
I just looked at some new saws and for a 50 hour saw,I think they cost to much. By the time I get to a 300 hour saw I would have to spend a wad!
 

Power

Registered
If you are on a tight budget, don't pour money into it.
Let's see what we can do to help you save.

When properly adjusted, I have seen chains sling because the bar nose is worn out, or because of incorrect replacement chains.

On your second chain, compare the thickness of the drive links, and how they fit on the sprocket against how the original fits. Check the sprocket for heavy grooving. That is often caused by insufficient oil or wrong chain. On my saw, the sprocket profile is uniform, so you can turn a worn sprocket over and get more use from it. I have shimmed the bar to move the chain to an unworn part of the sprocket.

Maybe you can turn yours over and save some $.

Like poster #3 said, check the oiler diaphragm and carb

Why do you think you need gas and oil caps?
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
well this issue came on out of the shadows today. Now the chain will not stop moving at idle and if it hits wood, cuts off the saw. So something in the clutch has puked.
The oil cap has to be twisted and pulled out with plyers. Gas cap leaks.
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
Pull off the clutch and gear. Make sure it isn't loaded with saw dust and debris. Look ar the sprocket itself and see if it is grooved or worn out. As others have noted - compare the chains. Tooth shape and size should be similar.
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
Ok, I will take it apart and probably just post a pic.It has been so long since I messed with a clutch on a saw I can not remember much.
I do know there is a notch in each "tooth" on the clutch. I don't know if it is wear or design.
 

Bill Sherlock

Subscriber
Age
75
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
Only have limited experience with chainsaws, but it's my opinion that the notch on the teeth of your saw is from wear.

Bill
 

uglyblue66

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
11/07/2018
It laid around on the shelf until 2 weeks ago.I cranked it up,ran fine but chain screwed as posted.Sold it for 45 bucks as is. So it is Gone.
 
Top