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Onan: The Devil's 5CCK has risen from the dead. Praise the Lord!

len k

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2018
Dad was a used car dealer, he went to local new car dealer every day to buy the 2-3 year old car trade-ins. Got a lifetime supply of tires from their dumpster, all knee deep in thread depth. Sometimes just a nail hole, other times they looked perfect (customer just complained and wanted a new set), other times just cupped up a bit. We mounted them up and drove them all till worn out, never had a problem. Still have a cellar full for rest of our lives. Got to sell off the sizes we don't use, to make some room.
 
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EICBob

Subscriber
Age
62
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
Johnny... curious about what that cut our would be used for? It appears to be on one of the tail pipe outlets and has a bell crank actuator arm.
🤔

-BobC
 

Zephyr7

Registered
Johnny... curious about what that cut our would be used for? It appears to be on one of the tail pipe outlets and has a bell crank actuator arm.
🤔
Maybe it shuts off the exhaust briefly to help you pass your emissions tests :crazy:

Worked for Volkswagen... for a while. There’s may have been a bit fancier though

Bill
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
I would guess that it is normally closed to make it quieter, then opens up when you step on it. :brows:
 

EICBob

Subscriber
Age
62
Last Subscription Date
07/13/2019
Being a BMW part I would be curious what that sold for? BIG bucks I bet!
That almost goes with out saying!
Kinda like putting a SONY tag on broadcast gear, raises the price 45% at the outset and 50% higher for support!

-BobC
 

JohnnyC

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/18/2020
Johnny... curious about what that cut our would be used for? It appears to be on one of the tail pipe outlets and has a bell crank actuator arm.
🤔

-BobC
When the actuator is closed, it adds a little back pressure to allow the vehicle to warm up faster in cold/freezing weather.

JohnnyC
New Jersey
 

JohnnyC

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/18/2020
Being a BMW part I would be curious what that sold for? BIG bucks I bet!
The muffler is BMW and costs $1045.00 list. Wholesale take off 20% to 30%. Our cost (dealer ) is $560. My cost if I purchased it would be dealer cost + 10%. Since the is actuator broken and it could not be returned to the warehouse it was thrown into the metal scrap pile. BMW part# is 18 30 8 686 883

EVERYTHING for BMW is expensive.

JohnnyC
New Jersey


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len k

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2018
Funny pricing, priced to max the market will bear, and then add ~10-300%

5-10 years ago I only paid twice what that muffler costs for my fancy sharp looking old car that was in great shape. 93 Chevy Caprice, wire wheels and everything.

Caprice looks a lot like this one, but dark blue and better looking
https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=503A371EE4034007FD8B783BE373E02D723FEC0E&thid=OIP.zpxaekLN1a9Pit2QWPb0DAHaF7&mediaurl=http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2764/4581/31909790008_large.jpg?v=1&exph=384&expw=480&q=93+chevy+caprice+blue&selectedindex=16&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=0,1,2,3,4,6,8,10
 
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JohnnyC

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/18/2020
Today I received a small package containing a new DC brush to replace the messed up brush on my 5CCK that I recently ordered. Special thanks to Onanparts.com for processing my order with lightning speed :clap:. Just in time for the weekend. Below are 2 pictures of the new DC brush. When I pull the old brush I'll snap a few pictures showing the old and new next to each other. The chocolate was tasty too!

JohnnyC
New Jersey

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JohnnyC

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/18/2020
In my post from yesterday I wrote about the DC brush that came in from Onanparts.com to replace the DC brush that was destroyed by heat. Looks like I need to order 3 more DC brushes. The remaining 3 DC brushes are functionally okay, but are down to their minimum limit. Also, I am debating if the 4 brush clip holders should be replaced especially the one that was subjected to heat from the burned brush. I would not be surprised if the spring is out of spec from possible excessive heat.

I included several pictures below with explanations as follows:

The first picture shows the old brush that heated up and melted its lead (repaired with the green wire) next to the new brush. It is obvious that the old brush as seen at least 5 billion hours of use. Maybe 6 billion-million-zillion hours of use.

The second picture shows a different old DC brush next to the new brush. The new brush has a line casted in it on one side and I assume that the purpose of the line it to indicate the minimum length before replacing it needed. If that's the case, it is clear that the old brush needs to be replaced. The remaining 2 DC brushes need to be replaced too.

Third picture shows the DC brush retainer clips. They still work, but I wonder if they should be replaced too especially the one that was subjected to heat when the brush lead melted. What is your opinion? Replace the clips of forget about it??????????????


JohnnyC
New Jersey

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Zephyr7

Registered
Absolutely replace the holder that was subjected to the high heat. Heat issues like that can embrittle the metal of the holder, and especially any insulating materials. You’re asking for another failure on that one if you don’t replace it.

The other holders are more of a judgement call on your part. If they appear to have only seen normal wear, no high heat, and still appear to be functionally ok then they’re probably fine. If it’s not difficult to replace them and not a ton of money either, then I’d probably replace all of them just to be on the safe side.

Bill
 

HBSaunders

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Wow, shows the little Onan HAS been to hell and back! You can resurrect the dead, so if I had your talent I'd put it to a higher path and give it a proper goal in its life.
 

len k

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2018
Brushes......Depends on cost and how much you plan on using it. but being at mins means replace it

You look young to me. Better to do the work now rather than when your old and body is aching and dragging.

Once you hit ~ 60 you don't want to do things you would jump at earlier in life.
 
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Power

Registered
Our wear limit on brushes was replace before gets worn down to where braid is because copper braid will score commutator or slip rings. We had spring tension scale to check brush springs.
As previously stated, overheated holder/ spring should be replaced. The others- well, the springs will usually keep good tension on new brushes. The issue is will there be enough tension when brushes are worn. Without a spring scale, and knowlege of correct tension, I would replace springs.
Generally, when brushes were replaced, commutator was also cleaned up and mica undercut.
 

JohnnyC

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/18/2020
Based on the responses I'll buy 4 new spring clips / holders or whatever they are called in addition to 3 more DC brushes. Believe it or not, the commutator appears to be in excellent condition. No abnormal wear or damage. No ridges where the brushes make contact compared to the adjacent areas on the commutator. I may as well check the slip ring AC brushes. I'm sure they are worn too, but seem to not be a problem. Since the set starts right up and actually runs extremely well, I may as well sink a couple hundred bucks into it. I only paid the Devil $75 for it and aside from worn brushes, the only problem I encountered (so far) was a melted/broken DC brush lead which I found very quickly. I must admit, I did not think the 5CCK was going to turn over and especially startup as you can tell in my voice in the first video I posted at the beginning of this thread because of the brush problem and possible winding damage.

JohnnyC
New Jersey
 

Zephyr7

Registered
JohnnyC, it’s probably worth doing a bit of detective work on that one overheated brush. You want to make sure there isn’t some screwy hidden problem that will cause the other brush to have issues in the future. I’d put a gauge on that and check for out of round the way you’d check a part on a lathe. Probably nothing, but worth checking, IMHO. I’d also check if anything about the slip rings would cause the brush to ride up, or off the side of, the ring or anything like that.

It seems strange that the one brush was brutally overheated but there is no “other” side that shows any damage. Best to be extra thorough checking that one I think, just to be safe.

Bill
 

len k

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/12/2018
Check spring tension, or at least feel spring force with your hand and compare them.
 

JohnnyC

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
03/18/2020
JohnnyC, it’s probably worth doing a bit of detective work on that one overheated brush. You want to make sure there isn’t some screwy hidden problem that will cause the other brush to have issues in the future. I’d put a gauge on that and check for out of round the way you’d check a part on a lathe. Probably nothing, but worth checking, IMHO. I’d also check if anything about the slip rings would cause the brush to ride up, or off the side of, the ring or anything like that.

It seems strange that the one brush was brutally overheated but there is no “other” side that shows any damage. Best to be extra thorough checking that one I think, just to be safe.

Bill
Bill,
Regarding the brush that heated up, I've had my eyes open as I too suspect something may be screwy that caused the problem. In my first video in my first post in this thread I mentioned several times that something may be wrong in the set to cause the problem while pointing to the generator end of the set. When I hit the toggle switch to start the motor, I was amazed that the set cranked.


So far, all seems OK. The set starts up and runs as well as produces electric as if it was new.

As for the seized brush, I think that part of the problem may have been an excessively dirty commutator and since it was the bottom brush crap may have gotten between the brush and brush holder causing the brush to seize in its holder along with poor contact with the commutator causing excessive heat and eventually failure. Look at the first picture below. I point out the dirty commutator with the thick arrow lines. The thin arrow line points out the brush that heated causing the brush's lead to melt and break. By the way, the brush that failed is the hardest brush to service because of its location, but I think the picture clearly shows the problem. The second picture shows how it looked after cleaning the contact surfaces. The bad brush is not shown in the second picture.

JohnnyC
New Jersey

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