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To hone or not to hone?

OTTO-Sawyer

Subscriber
Age
58
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
Did you mark the ring Gap Locations and put the rings back in their original orientation ?

If YES, (even better, if they're Pinned so they Can't Rotate) then Don't Bother Honing as they're already worn in for that set-up.

If NO, and they're turned from their original settings, then Hone the cylinder so they can Hopefully Re-seat if there is enough tension left in them to do so. . . If Not, then get New Rings and Hone as needed.

:salute:
 

Matthew Guy Clarke

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
09/23/2019
Probably should not have pulled the piston. Once the rings turn if not fixed with stops? they are never putback the same.
I always heard the cylinder breaks into the rings . Rings are tempered. Cylinders are not.
Dave Reed at Otto comments to use emergency emerycloth on the cylinder. Make just light sanding. Never hone unless the bore is egg shaped. If installing original never turned rings do not even polish or sand bore Once you oversize the bore with a straight wall hone the piston rocks and knocks like a rod out. Does not like to seal. An over size piston is then required as are fingsbof course .
 
Last edited:

OTTO-Sawyer

Subscriber
Age
58
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
I always heard the cylinder breaks into the rings . Rings are tempered. Cylinders are not.
Actually, they both wear in. . . First the Rings and then eventually the cylinder.

If Piston Rings DIDN'T "Break-In" then there'd be No Need to Hone The Cylinder with a Cross-Hatch Pattern (like a Double-Cut File), and you'd Just Bore it and let the rings scrape in the cylinder to match. . .

The Cross-Hatch Honing basically Files the Rings to Shape as the hatch-marks wear away and finally become smooth, making the (hopefully) Perfect Seal.

After That, years and years of wear eat away at the cylinder making it egg shaped and tapered.

:salute:
 
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